Does anyone have an above ground pool automatic vacuum they can recommend?

thereshego

I have a 12 ft. easy-set intex pool and the only problem i'm having is getting the small algae particals that settle to the floor up after I've used algaecide and clarifier. I just have one of those cheap $12 vacuums and all it does is shuffle the algae around again. Can anyone recommend one and tell me approximately how much it is?

Answer
I wouldn't be without a Polaris pool cleaner. It is by far the best and we've owned several different ones.

New house - how do I take care of our pool?

Eric C

Details - Inground pool, approximately 70,000 gallons.

Answer
There's really not much detail here other than the volume. I could write a book and not cover what you need. If you post back with filter type, pool type (concrtet or vinyl), heater or no heater, type of sanitizer being used and any automatic pool cleaners, it would be helpful. There's simply too many things to cover other than basic water chemistry. I usually suggest to new home owners that they get a pool service guy in once, to give them waht our company calls pool 101's. Many service companies will do this for you and it won't cost much more than a service call (50 bucks). You'll get a personalized lesson, that's good for your specific set up and equipment. Take notes and if possible videotape the lesson. Hey, don't laugh, I think I'm starring in over 100 home videos by now. This way you can review what you've learned.
I'll go over some basics, common to most pools.
1/ check your chemistry at least once week. Total alkalinity 80-120 , Ph 7.2- 7.6, Cl or Br 1.0 -3.0. Always adjust your TA before trying to adjust anything else contrary to what I see in some of these posts ( still giggling, little wonder people's pools go green)
2/ Vac out the pool on at least a weekly basis. Keeping it clean helps lower your overall chemical expenditures.
3/ Clean out you pump and skimmer baskets on at least a weekly basis and same goes for whatever filter system you are using, unless it's a DE filter, you can leave those longer.
4/ Every month or so, take a water sample into your pool shop to be tested. They test for things a typical home owner's kit doesn't. If you're developing a calcium hardness issue, total dissolved solids or a dissolved metal issue, they can nip it in the bud before any damage occurs. You should also take in a sample 2 weeks prior to closing the pool (if applicable) and within a few days of pool opening (if applicable). Helps you put the pool to bed properly and get off to a good start in spring.
That's all I can post given the info you provided. Every pool is different. I'll put this on my watch list, if you update and may be able to help further.

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Does anyone have an above ground pool automatic vacuum they can recommend?

setting up automatic pool cleaner image

thereshego

I have a 12 ft. easy-set intex pool and the only problem i'm having is getting the small algae particals that settle to the floor up after I've used algaecide and clarifier. I just have one of those cheap $12 vacuums and all it does is shuffle the algae around again. Can anyone recommend one and tell me approximately how much it is?

Answer
I wouldn't be without a Polaris pool cleaner. It is by far the best and we've owned several different ones.

How to run pool filter/motor?

A

I have a swimming pool 6 x 6 Meters 2 m height,
Yesterday a company came and clean my pool and add chemical stuffs, told me to fill it with water and in the morning they will come to activate ,run filter or motor i dont know

I paid all, but it seems they won't come back maybe theives... but anyways anyone know whats the next step to do?. how to run filter motor?.. I don't know,, I have like a big pumb thing and other one is near the water storage room with a small machine that can set filters or motor automatic... anyone can help? i don't want the water to get dirty because I wasted alot of money already .

Answer
On mine there is a toggle switch at the rear bottom of the motor. you flip it on or off and the motor starts. Turn the shaft by hand if it has set off for a extended time to make sure the impeller blades are free in the pump. They stick and you can rip them off on starting. Once started you go to the timer. look at your clock and set the time. then open the cover and move the 2 colored pegs for on at such time. then the other set to turn it off at such time. You need water above the intake before turning on the pump. and prime the pump first. On mine to do that you open the valve above the impeller house and let water out to remove the air in it.

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How to connect an automatic pool cleaner (Cruiser C400).?

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Cat

Should the pump be set to filtration or circulation? and should both the skimmer and bottom valves be left open?

Answer
Close the bottom drain. If your pool has a side drain, connect the pool cleaner there. If not, put a y-fitting into the skimmer and tie your pool cleaner in there. Set the pump for filtration to take out the stuff the pool cleaner picks up.

My neighbor tied his pool cleaner into one of the bottom drains and plugged the other. That seems to work ok too but you have to fool around with the balance between the two drains to get the pool cleaner to work.

What pool vacuum should a buy to clean an 18'x42' Easy Set Pool? Manually vacuuming it is not working!?

Tabitha Sc

Are there any automatic pool vacuums that will clean this type of pool? Thanks!

Answer
Try the website below. They have a good Hayward and Polaris model that are designed for above ground pools. They also have a section dedicated to inflatable pools.

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Is a salt water pool better than fresh water for your health,and also for cleaning out pool after?

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Fairbanks

Answer
I reckon you're asking about salt generators.
There are many out on the market and their popularity has grown over the last 10 years. About half of all new pools being installed these days are set up with a salt generator.
There's something you should know about these generators. Most people believe that this is a non chlorine system. It actually is chlorine based. The idea behind these generators is to change salt into chlorine. Chlorine is actually a form of salt that's a little more "energized" than normal table salt. It's that property that allows it to effectively sanitize a pool.
With a salt generated pool, the actual salinity of the water is quite low. So low that unless you have exceptional taste buds, you won't taste it. You won't float any differently either than in fresh water.
There are a number of advantages with going salt. First and foremost is the "feel" of the water. A salt generated pool is a lot easier on eyes and skin than a traditionally chlorinated pool. The water is "softer". Because the chlorine produced by the unit is in a low constant dose, there's no high amount of chlorine in there to bother a person but it's still high enough and produced almost constantly, to keep the pool looking good. Another reason to go salt is the cost savings over time. These units are expensive initially but save a lot of money in chemicals that you don't need to add anymore. No more shock unless you get into trouble, less acid and less TA adjustment chems are needed as well. Salt generated pools tend to stay pretty stable in the water chemistry department. More so than any other form of sanitizer system. These systems are also automatic. You basically just set them and forget them with just a once a week check of the LCD screen on the control panel to make sure there's no issues. Maintenance usually just consists of a once a year cell cleaning which doesn't take long and the home owner can do this themselves.
The one drawback they have is the need to check your stabilizer levels a little more often than you normally do with a normal chlorine pool. You aren't using pucks anymore ( they have stabilizer in them) and you'll have to compensate for that when required. You'll also have to keep an eye on your salinity and add salt if required. This will happen once or twice per year with a sand filtered pool ( you're backwashing), only once as a rule with a cartridge or DE filter.
I disagree with what the other poster has said regarding retrofitting an older pool with salt. You can do it no problem at all. The only thing that would hinder that is if the pool were on Bromine before switching to salt/chlorine. In this case you'd have to dump the water since Bromine isn't compatible. If you're on chlorine now, it's not an issue. The only other thing I can think of that may be an issue is the pool's electrical grounding. If the pool was built properly it will be properly electrically bonded and there is no issue. If the pool builder cut corners and didn't bond the structure, ladders etc then there might be a corrosion issue 10 years down the road. It's easy enough to fix before the installation of the salt unit.
I also disagree with the other poster in that you DON'T need to still add chlorine. If the unit was sized and installed properly, it will work just fine by itself with no need for any additional chlorine unless you have a hundred kids suddenly using the pool and weren't prepared for it. Preparation is a simple matter of turning a knob on the control unit to up the amount of sanitizer produced before the party. That's it.
As a former pool tech and I was given the choice on what to use for a sanitizer system, I'd go salt in a heart beat. Less hassle, less overall cost and more enjoyment of the pool. So the answer to your question is yes salt generated pools are healthier and you're going to be cleaning any type of sanitized pool out. They all get dirty.

New house - how do I take care of our pool?

Eric C

Details - Inground pool, approximately 70,000 gallons.

Answer
There's really not much detail here other than the volume. I could write a book and not cover what you need. If you post back with filter type, pool type (concrtet or vinyl), heater or no heater, type of sanitizer being used and any automatic pool cleaners, it would be helpful. There's simply too many things to cover other than basic water chemistry. I usually suggest to new home owners that they get a pool service guy in once, to give them waht our company calls pool 101's. Many service companies will do this for you and it won't cost much more than a service call (50 bucks). You'll get a personalized lesson, that's good for your specific set up and equipment. Take notes and if possible videotape the lesson. Hey, don't laugh, I think I'm starring in over 100 home videos by now. This way you can review what you've learned.
I'll go over some basics, common to most pools.
1/ check your chemistry at least once week. Total alkalinity 80-120 , Ph 7.2- 7.6, Cl or Br 1.0 -3.0. Always adjust your TA before trying to adjust anything else contrary to what I see in some of these posts ( still giggling, little wonder people's pools go green)
2/ Vac out the pool on at least a weekly basis. Keeping it clean helps lower your overall chemical expenditures.
3/ Clean out you pump and skimmer baskets on at least a weekly basis and same goes for whatever filter system you are using, unless it's a DE filter, you can leave those longer.
4/ Every month or so, take a water sample into your pool shop to be tested. They test for things a typical home owner's kit doesn't. If you're developing a calcium hardness issue, total dissolved solids or a dissolved metal issue, they can nip it in the bud before any damage occurs. You should also take in a sample 2 weeks prior to closing the pool (if applicable) and within a few days of pool opening (if applicable). Helps you put the pool to bed properly and get off to a good start in spring.
That's all I can post given the info you provided. Every pool is different. I'll put this on my watch list, if you update and may be able to help further.

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