automatic pool cleaner hose image
B
My water makes a pink slimy stain when it pools up somewhere for a day or two. It stains the drain and the toilet. Also, when you leave a few drops of water in the bathtub, a pink stain appears. Its gross, it comes off with soap. But I wonder why it does that?
Answer
Check this out....it is off the internet:
What White Water Mold is & what it looks like:
a naturally occurring bacterium (of the newly formed genus Methylobacterium) (this is NOT a form of Algae, it is animal not vegetable)
Pink-pigmented, forms a heavy, protective slime coating providing the organism with an unusually high level of protection, methanol consuming, oftentimes found WITH White Water Mold
that is very resilient against halogen-based (chlorine, bromine) as well as non-halogen sanitizers or germicides can remain a contaminant even after treatment
this is NOT a biguanide problem ONLY
bacterium has an affinity for the matrix that exists on the surface of PVC plastics; it will attach itself to & inside of the matrix, allowing it to re-contaminate long after it appears that it has been destroyed (includes pool toys, floats, ladders, steps, fountains, automatic pool cleaner parts, skimmer baskets, weirs, directional fittings, garden hoses, etc.)
small quantities can lead to a re-establishment of the problem
caused by improper water & pool maintenance, environment, poor circulation
prefers areas that are "dark" (not exposed to direct sunlight) & with "slow moving" water
** in another industry, medical technology, this bacterium occurs regularly in laboratory tubing
White Water Mold & Pink Slime are NOT CAUSED BY USING BIGUANIDES (Soft Swim, Baquacil, Polyclear, etc.)!
It is an environmental issue.
Prevention:
Prevention of "white water mold" & "pink slime" is preferred over treatment. Follow these steps to help prevent white water mold:
1. Physically brush & clean ALL Spa surfaces weekly, including steps, jet recesses, & behind pillows
2. Expose ALL pool surfaces to as much sunlight as possible (sunlight & UV are natural
oxidizers)
3. Remove the lid from the skimmer to allow sunlight into the basket for several hours each
day ** INGROUND POOLS MUST USE EXTREME CAUTION in doing this in order to avoid
a person falling into or otherwise injuring themselves due to an open skimmer.
4. Regularly add oxidizing chemicals into the skimmer to purge & clean the filtration lines of
any bio-film*
5. When adding make-up water from the garden hose, allow the water to run for 2 to 3
minutes before putting the hose into the pool.
6. Regularly clean spa & hot tub toys & floats (use BioGuard® Stow Away)
7. Regularly clean pool solar blanket (use BioGuard® Stow Away)
8. Chemically clean pool filter every 4 to 6 weeks (use SpaGuard® Filter Cleaner or SoftSoak® Filter Cleaner)
9. Add regular Maintenance dosages of "Shock" (SpaGuard® Spa Shock, SpaGuard® Enhanced Shock, SpaGuard® Chlorinating Concentrate, SpaGuard® Brominating Concentrate or SoftSoak® Shock) every week as prescribed
10. Run the filter a minimum of 6 hours daily to prevent "dead spots" in the pool
11. Remember to clean & rinse the brushes, hoses & vacuums that you use to clean the spa
12. Leave as much of your spa equipment exposed to the sun
13. Keep the water balanced at all times. Recheck after heavy usage or rain or large "top-offs" of new water. Water balance refers to Free Available Sanitizer level, pH, Total Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness.
Check this out....it is off the internet:
What White Water Mold is & what it looks like:
a naturally occurring bacterium (of the newly formed genus Methylobacterium) (this is NOT a form of Algae, it is animal not vegetable)
Pink-pigmented, forms a heavy, protective slime coating providing the organism with an unusually high level of protection, methanol consuming, oftentimes found WITH White Water Mold
that is very resilient against halogen-based (chlorine, bromine) as well as non-halogen sanitizers or germicides can remain a contaminant even after treatment
this is NOT a biguanide problem ONLY
bacterium has an affinity for the matrix that exists on the surface of PVC plastics; it will attach itself to & inside of the matrix, allowing it to re-contaminate long after it appears that it has been destroyed (includes pool toys, floats, ladders, steps, fountains, automatic pool cleaner parts, skimmer baskets, weirs, directional fittings, garden hoses, etc.)
small quantities can lead to a re-establishment of the problem
caused by improper water & pool maintenance, environment, poor circulation
prefers areas that are "dark" (not exposed to direct sunlight) & with "slow moving" water
** in another industry, medical technology, this bacterium occurs regularly in laboratory tubing
White Water Mold & Pink Slime are NOT CAUSED BY USING BIGUANIDES (Soft Swim, Baquacil, Polyclear, etc.)!
It is an environmental issue.
Prevention:
Prevention of "white water mold" & "pink slime" is preferred over treatment. Follow these steps to help prevent white water mold:
1. Physically brush & clean ALL Spa surfaces weekly, including steps, jet recesses, & behind pillows
2. Expose ALL pool surfaces to as much sunlight as possible (sunlight & UV are natural
oxidizers)
3. Remove the lid from the skimmer to allow sunlight into the basket for several hours each
day ** INGROUND POOLS MUST USE EXTREME CAUTION in doing this in order to avoid
a person falling into or otherwise injuring themselves due to an open skimmer.
4. Regularly add oxidizing chemicals into the skimmer to purge & clean the filtration lines of
any bio-film*
5. When adding make-up water from the garden hose, allow the water to run for 2 to 3
minutes before putting the hose into the pool.
6. Regularly clean spa & hot tub toys & floats (use BioGuard® Stow Away)
7. Regularly clean pool solar blanket (use BioGuard® Stow Away)
8. Chemically clean pool filter every 4 to 6 weeks (use SpaGuard® Filter Cleaner or SoftSoak® Filter Cleaner)
9. Add regular Maintenance dosages of "Shock" (SpaGuard® Spa Shock, SpaGuard® Enhanced Shock, SpaGuard® Chlorinating Concentrate, SpaGuard® Brominating Concentrate or SoftSoak® Shock) every week as prescribed
10. Run the filter a minimum of 6 hours daily to prevent "dead spots" in the pool
11. Remember to clean & rinse the brushes, hoses & vacuums that you use to clean the spa
12. Leave as much of your spa equipment exposed to the sun
13. Keep the water balanced at all times. Recheck after heavy usage or rain or large "top-offs" of new water. Water balance refers to Free Available Sanitizer level, pH, Total Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness.
How do I rid of the dirt at the bottom of my pool if all the automatic vacuum does is mix it?
coldmv
I am unsure if it's dirt, old DE, or algae. I am attempting to push all of it down the drain, but this also just mixes in with the water making clouds. Any advice?
Answer
First off i would use a regular pool vac and put your filter on waste and just get rid of it once and for all by slowly sucking it up (take your time as clouds happen when you go to fast). If your still using an old DE filter then personally id give it the old heave ho and get a sand filter as they are not that expensive and are much safer and easier to maintain then the DE filters especially since the dust they use to re coat them is considered a carcinogen.
If your making clouds chances are it isnt algae as it usually acts like super glue to the walls of your pool until you super chlorinate it into oblivion. Might be dirt but if it doesnt come up with the manual vacuuming i highly doubt it. If you do have a DE filter it might be junk that made it from the DE filter into the pool and thus always makes it way back in. If its a cartridge filter it could be your filter is clogged up and is thus missing material and just reshooting it out into the pool. Simply hose down a cartridge filter until clean with a pressure washer and reinstall.
Short Form Answer
1.) If you have a DE toss it and get a sand filter, much easier to maintain and safer to use
2.) If your not sure what it is in the bottom check your chlorine levels if they are non existent or low super chlorinate and see what happens to it then (whether it vacs up or not)
3.) Use a manual vac for cleanups and the auto vac for basic weekly maintenance when your not using the pool.
First off i would use a regular pool vac and put your filter on waste and just get rid of it once and for all by slowly sucking it up (take your time as clouds happen when you go to fast). If your still using an old DE filter then personally id give it the old heave ho and get a sand filter as they are not that expensive and are much safer and easier to maintain then the DE filters especially since the dust they use to re coat them is considered a carcinogen.
If your making clouds chances are it isnt algae as it usually acts like super glue to the walls of your pool until you super chlorinate it into oblivion. Might be dirt but if it doesnt come up with the manual vacuuming i highly doubt it. If you do have a DE filter it might be junk that made it from the DE filter into the pool and thus always makes it way back in. If its a cartridge filter it could be your filter is clogged up and is thus missing material and just reshooting it out into the pool. Simply hose down a cartridge filter until clean with a pressure washer and reinstall.
Short Form Answer
1.) If you have a DE toss it and get a sand filter, much easier to maintain and safer to use
2.) If your not sure what it is in the bottom check your chlorine levels if they are non existent or low super chlorinate and see what happens to it then (whether it vacs up or not)
3.) Use a manual vac for cleanups and the auto vac for basic weekly maintenance when your not using the pool.
Powered by Yahoo! Answers
Tidak ada komentar:
Posting Komentar