Sabtu, 08 Februari 2014

Automatic vacuum cleaner problems!!! PLEASE HELP?




Kelsey


We just got an above ground pool this year and it came with a manual vacuum. It dosnt really work good, so my dad bought a n automatic one. It keeps getting stuck on the ladder. Its a Barracuda brand something like that. Does anyone know how to fix that problem? Its one of those that has a flat thing at the bottom and a round collar around the top so it stays so far out of the walls please any help!!
Thanks



Answer
There is a ladder guard that you can purchase for the Barracuda pool cleaner. It is sold as an option accessory and is made specifically to remedy this problem. I believe that their part number is #W24000. You can get one with an retailer that sells Barracuda parts or probably directly from the company.

Polaris 280 pool cleaner qeustion?




rob


ok. i have a polaris 280 automatic pool cleaner. for some reason it just sits in one spot! it used to zip around the whole pool. now its stationary. Please help!!


Answer
I was surprised to see this in the boating area, but I just happen to be a pool technician, been one for 20 years. With the equipment running, pick the cleaner up and see if the wheels are turning. If not, do they turn freely by hand? If they turn freely by hand, then you have a plugged jet that drives the wheels, and it is trying to move with only the jet at the back of it. I would recommend you take it in to have the jet cleaned out, unless your familiar with taking it apart. A word of caution though, this is the most common thing that pool stores miss on the Polaris.

If you don't have good water pressure, try checking the screen where it comes out of the pool wall, at the regulator valve, and that your pump is working properly.

Good luck!




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Jumat, 07 Februari 2014

What is the benefit of an automatic cleaner?




Hin Yushar





Answer
Automatic cleaners increase the opportunity that your pool will always be "swim ready." Automatic cleaners today are sophisticated and reliable. There are many different types for all applications depending on the type of pool and your locality to suit your needs and existing equipment. Since it is not possible for your pool professional to be in your yard every day to ensure all debris is cleared, this is an excellent option to ensure that algae does not have a good chance of getting hold of your pool's finish. The most common types of algae are caused botanical debris settling in your pool. Algae is unsightly, unhealthy for both swimmers and the longevity of your pool's finish (plaster). Automatic cleaners are a very good option in avoiding algae and staining of your pool's finish.

we have a big pool and wondering what we can do to keep it clean?




motheroffo


we purchased a big pool and we bought the shock treatment chlorine tablets more filters leaf skimmer ect u name it but our pump went out we are waiting on another one but the water kindof stinks and its not clear like before. also how can we get the leafs that are on the bottom? do they make something special for that please help


Answer
A manual leaf net that you can use to scoop the leaves out would work. Also, an automatic pool cleaner would be a good option. One of these cleaners, along with proper shock and chlorine, should have your pool clean in no time.




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my automatic pool cleaner is not working?




Justice


what should i do ro check out to see wny my automatic pool cleaner(polaris turtle) is not working?


Answer
I cannot find the website for polaris, seems they were sold not too long ago. I could be wrong on that.

If your turtle plugs into the skimmer or fitting in the water and there is not a separate pump to operate it, likely the turtle is a suction side automatic cleaner.

Suction side automatic cleaners all have something in common and that is when your filter is getting dirty the amount of water going through your cleaner and filter is way down. Inside your cleaner is a water paddle wheel that makes the turtle go.

Check your turtle to see if the passage ways are clean and clear and the hose is also, then clean out your filter. A clean filter should develop about 16-20psi when clean. When dirty and needing cleaning the pressure is about 26-30 or a 10 psi gain. Best to clean before 10 psi but surely by 10 psi.

You're welcome!!

What is the best automatic inground pool cleaner? What brand and price?




Francaise


Its a vinyl inground pool. Rectangular 18x36. Also budget is an issue, I am looking at spending $500 or less.


Answer
After 25 years of hearing how great floor head systems are, I have come to a conclusion. If your pool would have stayed looking nice with any cleaning system in your pool, it will stay nice with a floor head system.
If you plan on owning a pool for 5-6 years, or longer, in my opinion the best cleaning system(Dollar for Dollar) is a Polaris 280 with a booster pump and a separate time clock. The reasons are as follows:
1.)Low cost of repairs. I have clients with Polaris 180âs that are 25 years old. (The 280 has the same drive system.) Total repair costs in 25 years are less than $300.00 total (Not counting bag replacements.) I Personally, have owned a Polaris 280 for almost 5 years and have not spent a dime. (other than on 2 bags, and one of them was torn by my kids, and the other by a big pine cone. )

2.)It will clean most pools spotless in 10-20 minutes per day. You have seen our (5) 40â plus Ponderosa pines that overhang our pool area. Not counting steps and love seat, if we keep the bag cleaned, the floor stays spotless.

3.)Initial installation costs should be in the $1400.00-1600.00 range. Floor head systems are usually about double the initial expense. Also, the motor for the cleaning system is usually a 2 H.P. or larger, and the pool needs to run for substantially greater times to even get close to what a Polaris will do in ½ hour or less. Also, if you are not the initial purchaser of the system, you will not get a lifetime warrantee. Replacement gear systems, floor heads, ⦠can average more than $200.00 per year after the first 2 year, not to mention if the cleaner is not working correctly, i.e. heads jammed in the up position, actuator gears jammed, ⦠you are running that large motor with absolutely no cleaning going on. Any way you look at it, running a ¾ H.P. booster motor for 20-30 minutes is going to be a lot cheaper than running a 2 H.P. for 3-4 hours. Add into this that most motors run for more than 2 hours per day seem to have a life span in the 5-6 year range, and that a 2 H.P. motor is about double the cost, I cannot see spending the money.

4.)Suction side cleaners have a lower initial cost, but are annoying because either they will not pick up sticks, twigs, small rocks, ⦠or they will, and then they will completely stop working until you spend 10 minutes pulling them out and cleaning the debris out of them. Some of these will end up needing replacement parts just because of punctured diaphragms, ⦠This is in addition to an average annual repair cost of about $200-250, after the first year or two. In less than 5 years(More likely 3 years), if you add in electricity savings, pool cleanliness and thus chemical costs savings, and electrical savings, you have more than paid for the Polaris. If you add to this the fact that, if you have a suction side cleaner, you will have had to bring it in to the shop at least 4-5 times, having a non-functional cleaning system, thus a horridly dirty pool at least 4-5 times, the fact that often it dies a slow death each time so your pool doesnât look right for months prior to each rebuilding, and the repeated hassles of needing to unplug the system when ever any ârealâ debris ends up in the pool, and I wonât have anything else in my pool, or my families pools. To summarize, If you are buying a cleaner and are selling the home quickly, I would probably go with a pool Vac(if there are no rocks, sticks, big leaves, ⦠In other words, dirt only, but your annual repair costs will be high) or a Kreepy Krauley if you have anything else(Or want 40% less repair costs than the Pool Vac).

5.)Floor heads, or suction cleaners destroy the natural water flow around the pool which is responsible for moving the debris around to the skimmer on the surface, and for moving silt, and dirt to the main drain. Therefore, the surface areas of both sides of the pool(If the cleaners are functioning properly) will be an average of 20-40% dirtier than the same pool with a pool vac, return lines properly adjusted, and approximately ¾ of the suction of the pool going to the main drain. Also, since almost all of the suction for a suction side cleaner is directed to the cleaner, and thatâs run through an extra 30 feet or so of corrugated hose, the water flow is greatly reduced, and to get the same water filtration you will need to run that system approximately 25% -30% longer than a system without a suction cleaner. Thatâs 1 ¾ hrs longer running a 1 H.P. motor than is needed to run the ¾ H.P booster. Also, as a suction cleaner picks up debris, assuming it doesnât get plugged up and stop functioning all together, the baskets will fill up and all the suction to the pool will decrease or stop. There are times during the year where about 60% of the repair work I do is related to suction cleaning systems picking up too much debris. Note: This is never covered under any warrantee.

There is more that I could add, but I am too tired to do so now. Installation is as follows:




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Maintenance on an inground pool?




Em


I have never owned an inground pool and am looking to purchase a home that has one. However, I don't know anything about how much money, trouble, and effort it takes to keep one up, as far as maintenance. Please give me a clue...?


Answer
Keeping water in it helps, you also need to keep the water stabilized, proper PH, chlorine level, acidity etc. You will need to clean the filter or replace the media, which ever the case maybe, every 2-6 weeks or so depending on usage, if its screened in etc. It will also need to be vacuumed or you will have to get an automatic pool cleaner (which requires maintenance of its own). And eventually you will need to resurface your pool or deck, repair tile, replace your pool pump and filter, repair broken return or intake lines, repair the lighting. If you live in a climate where if freezes you will have to winterize your pool, whatever that entails. You also have to deal with homeowners insurance rules and local laws concerning safety fences, alarms and other things, I am sure I am forgetting something.

I don't mean to scare you....it's pretty easy to do most of these things, I spend about 1.5 hours a week at the most on my pool, and it is affordable if you do it yourself. If you don't want to do the weekly maintenance yourself get a pool service, in my area of Florida it is about $15-$20 a week and they check all of the water quality perimeters and add the appropriate chemicals (that you supply) and vacuum.

Can an automatic pool cleaner (a polaris) cause a leak?




NDallasPun


I have an inground fiberglass pool and have been loosing about an inch of water a day. I read other answers and tried the bucket test and also marked the side of the pool with electrical tape to track.
I have noticed that my polaris has been shooting quite a bit of water out of the pool via splashing or getting stuck but the problem only began about a week and a half ago and I have had a polaris for years.
I completely shut the polaris off one morning before work just to test that theory. When I came home at the end of the day, the water level was fine! Then I turned the polaris on and after about an hour of running, the level dropped about a quarter of an inch.
I know water always flows through the polaris piping but could the surge in pressure after turning the polaris motor cause a minor crack to begin leaking?

Side note: my main drain line at the bottom of the pool has either clogged or collapsed but that has been the case for about a year and the pool has always looked crystal clear and maintained good water levels.
Any ideas or thoughts would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!



Answer
If the pool only leaks when the polaris pump is running it, it is almost certainly a break in the pipe between the booster pump and the pool. When the pump is running there is a lot mor pressure in the pipe so it will leak a lot quicker.
A leak detection company should be able to pin point where the leak is, and then a pool company can dig it up and fix it.

Look for wet soil in garden beds, etc. with the pump running.
Palm trees are the biggest culprit in breaking pool pipes.




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What can i do about an above ground pool that has yellow water?




Britney


My younger sister got an above ground intex pool for her 7th birthday. It's been set up for a month now, and the water is starting to turn yellow. We bought a PH testing kit which also gives results for free chlorine, total alkalinity and stabilizer. The PH level results were 7.8, which is supposed to be pretty normal. There was absolutely no free chlorine, and the total alkalinity too high (200). The stabilizer was also far too low.
I really don't know what to do about it. We live in a city of 40,000 but there are no places here that give advice for pool care (probably because it doesn't get overly warm here in summer)
The paper that came with the testing kit suggested that we put sodium bisulfate into the pool to lower the alkalinity, but i have no idea what that is.
Does anyone know what to do about this? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!



Answer
Your PH of 7.8 sounds to be a little on the high side. I think the nominal is supposed to be around 7.2. As far as maintenance, what kind of filtration system do you have? This can make a huge difference in how clean your pool water stays. I've never used sodium bi-sulfate and couldn't even tell you what this is product does. Maybe a google search will reveal more about how it works, how to use it, and where to purchase it if you want to go that route. In my pool I've never had to add anything but chlorine, stabilizer, and occasionally a touch of algaecide. You might want to consider using an automatic chlorinator with chlorine tablets which will administer chlorine to the pool regularly. I also use granulated stabilizer administered through a nylon stocking tied off on the side of the pool to help extend the life of your chlorine in the water. This works for me, but from what you describe, I imagine your must live in a climate far different than mine. Where I live, it is now almost full-blown winter time, and outdoor swimming is an impossibility. It also gets plenty hot in the summer, with temperatures occasionally climbing up to 100, so there is always a lot of interest in swimming pools. I hope you find success in getting your pool straightened out. Good luck and God Bless!

Steve

how does an above ground automatic pool cleaner work??




Hugeez





Answer
Not well enough that you won't need to still remove leaves and other big items. I thought installing one would work. I even got one of those bottom cleaners, and still I have to have the pool guy come once every month!!! There is no real cure for the pool cleaner!!!!
Sorry, I thought you were talking about built in pools......




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my automatic pool cleaner is not working?




Justice


what should i do ro check out to see wny my automatic pool cleaner(polaris turtle) is not working?


Answer
I cannot find the website for polaris, seems they were sold not too long ago. I could be wrong on that.

If your turtle plugs into the skimmer or fitting in the water and there is not a separate pump to operate it, likely the turtle is a suction side automatic cleaner.

Suction side automatic cleaners all have something in common and that is when your filter is getting dirty the amount of water going through your cleaner and filter is way down. Inside your cleaner is a water paddle wheel that makes the turtle go.

Check your turtle to see if the passage ways are clean and clear and the hose is also, then clean out your filter. A clean filter should develop about 16-20psi when clean. When dirty and needing cleaning the pressure is about 26-30 or a 10 psi gain. Best to clean before 10 psi but surely by 10 psi.

You're welcome!!

What is the best automatic inground pool cleaner? What brand and price?




Francaise


Its a vinyl inground pool. Rectangular 18x36. Also budget is an issue, I am looking at spending $500 or less.


Answer
After 25 years of hearing how great floor head systems are, I have come to a conclusion. If your pool would have stayed looking nice with any cleaning system in your pool, it will stay nice with a floor head system.
If you plan on owning a pool for 5-6 years, or longer, in my opinion the best cleaning system(Dollar for Dollar) is a Polaris 280 with a booster pump and a separate time clock. The reasons are as follows:
1.)Low cost of repairs. I have clients with Polaris 180âs that are 25 years old. (The 280 has the same drive system.) Total repair costs in 25 years are less than $300.00 total (Not counting bag replacements.) I Personally, have owned a Polaris 280 for almost 5 years and have not spent a dime. (other than on 2 bags, and one of them was torn by my kids, and the other by a big pine cone. )

2.)It will clean most pools spotless in 10-20 minutes per day. You have seen our (5) 40â plus Ponderosa pines that overhang our pool area. Not counting steps and love seat, if we keep the bag cleaned, the floor stays spotless.

3.)Initial installation costs should be in the $1400.00-1600.00 range. Floor head systems are usually about double the initial expense. Also, the motor for the cleaning system is usually a 2 H.P. or larger, and the pool needs to run for substantially greater times to even get close to what a Polaris will do in ½ hour or less. Also, if you are not the initial purchaser of the system, you will not get a lifetime warrantee. Replacement gear systems, floor heads, ⦠can average more than $200.00 per year after the first 2 year, not to mention if the cleaner is not working correctly, i.e. heads jammed in the up position, actuator gears jammed, ⦠you are running that large motor with absolutely no cleaning going on. Any way you look at it, running a ¾ H.P. booster motor for 20-30 minutes is going to be a lot cheaper than running a 2 H.P. for 3-4 hours. Add into this that most motors run for more than 2 hours per day seem to have a life span in the 5-6 year range, and that a 2 H.P. motor is about double the cost, I cannot see spending the money.

4.)Suction side cleaners have a lower initial cost, but are annoying because either they will not pick up sticks, twigs, small rocks, ⦠or they will, and then they will completely stop working until you spend 10 minutes pulling them out and cleaning the debris out of them. Some of these will end up needing replacement parts just because of punctured diaphragms, ⦠This is in addition to an average annual repair cost of about $200-250, after the first year or two. In less than 5 years(More likely 3 years), if you add in electricity savings, pool cleanliness and thus chemical costs savings, and electrical savings, you have more than paid for the Polaris. If you add to this the fact that, if you have a suction side cleaner, you will have had to bring it in to the shop at least 4-5 times, having a non-functional cleaning system, thus a horridly dirty pool at least 4-5 times, the fact that often it dies a slow death each time so your pool doesnât look right for months prior to each rebuilding, and the repeated hassles of needing to unplug the system when ever any ârealâ debris ends up in the pool, and I wonât have anything else in my pool, or my families pools. To summarize, If you are buying a cleaner and are selling the home quickly, I would probably go with a pool Vac(if there are no rocks, sticks, big leaves, ⦠In other words, dirt only, but your annual repair costs will be high) or a Kreepy Krauley if you have anything else(Or want 40% less repair costs than the Pool Vac).

5.)Floor heads, or suction cleaners destroy the natural water flow around the pool which is responsible for moving the debris around to the skimmer on the surface, and for moving silt, and dirt to the main drain. Therefore, the surface areas of both sides of the pool(If the cleaners are functioning properly) will be an average of 20-40% dirtier than the same pool with a pool vac, return lines properly adjusted, and approximately ¾ of the suction of the pool going to the main drain. Also, since almost all of the suction for a suction side cleaner is directed to the cleaner, and thatâs run through an extra 30 feet or so of corrugated hose, the water flow is greatly reduced, and to get the same water filtration you will need to run that system approximately 25% -30% longer than a system without a suction cleaner. Thatâs 1 ¾ hrs longer running a 1 H.P. motor than is needed to run the ¾ H.P booster. Also, as a suction cleaner picks up debris, assuming it doesnât get plugged up and stop functioning all together, the baskets will fill up and all the suction to the pool will decrease or stop. There are times during the year where about 60% of the repair work I do is related to suction cleaning systems picking up too much debris. Note: This is never covered under any warrantee.

There is more that I could add, but I am too tired to do so now. Installation is as follows:




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What is the benefit of an automatic cleaner?




Hin Yushar





Answer
Automatic cleaners increase the opportunity that your pool will always be "swim ready." Automatic cleaners today are sophisticated and reliable. There are many different types for all applications depending on the type of pool and your locality to suit your needs and existing equipment. Since it is not possible for your pool professional to be in your yard every day to ensure all debris is cleared, this is an excellent option to ensure that algae does not have a good chance of getting hold of your pool's finish. The most common types of algae are caused botanical debris settling in your pool. Algae is unsightly, unhealthy for both swimmers and the longevity of your pool's finish (plaster). Automatic cleaners are a very good option in avoiding algae and staining of your pool's finish.

my automatic pool cleaner is not working?




Justice


what should i do ro check out to see wny my automatic pool cleaner(polaris turtle) is not working?


Answer
I cannot find the website for polaris, seems they were sold not too long ago. I could be wrong on that.

If your turtle plugs into the skimmer or fitting in the water and there is not a separate pump to operate it, likely the turtle is a suction side automatic cleaner.

Suction side automatic cleaners all have something in common and that is when your filter is getting dirty the amount of water going through your cleaner and filter is way down. Inside your cleaner is a water paddle wheel that makes the turtle go.

Check your turtle to see if the passage ways are clean and clear and the hose is also, then clean out your filter. A clean filter should develop about 16-20psi when clean. When dirty and needing cleaning the pressure is about 26-30 or a 10 psi gain. Best to clean before 10 psi but surely by 10 psi.

You're welcome!!




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Kamis, 06 Februari 2014

my automatic pool cleaner is not working?




Justice


what should i do ro check out to see wny my automatic pool cleaner(polaris turtle) is not working?


Answer
I cannot find the website for polaris, seems they were sold not too long ago. I could be wrong on that.

If your turtle plugs into the skimmer or fitting in the water and there is not a separate pump to operate it, likely the turtle is a suction side automatic cleaner.

Suction side automatic cleaners all have something in common and that is when your filter is getting dirty the amount of water going through your cleaner and filter is way down. Inside your cleaner is a water paddle wheel that makes the turtle go.

Check your turtle to see if the passage ways are clean and clear and the hose is also, then clean out your filter. A clean filter should develop about 16-20psi when clean. When dirty and needing cleaning the pressure is about 26-30 or a 10 psi gain. Best to clean before 10 psi but surely by 10 psi.

You're welcome!!

What is the best automatic inground pool cleaner? What brand and price?




Francaise


Its a vinyl inground pool. Rectangular 18x36. Also budget is an issue, I am looking at spending $500 or less.


Answer
After 25 years of hearing how great floor head systems are, I have come to a conclusion. If your pool would have stayed looking nice with any cleaning system in your pool, it will stay nice with a floor head system.
If you plan on owning a pool for 5-6 years, or longer, in my opinion the best cleaning system(Dollar for Dollar) is a Polaris 280 with a booster pump and a separate time clock. The reasons are as follows:
1.)Low cost of repairs. I have clients with Polaris 180âs that are 25 years old. (The 280 has the same drive system.) Total repair costs in 25 years are less than $300.00 total (Not counting bag replacements.) I Personally, have owned a Polaris 280 for almost 5 years and have not spent a dime. (other than on 2 bags, and one of them was torn by my kids, and the other by a big pine cone. )

2.)It will clean most pools spotless in 10-20 minutes per day. You have seen our (5) 40â plus Ponderosa pines that overhang our pool area. Not counting steps and love seat, if we keep the bag cleaned, the floor stays spotless.

3.)Initial installation costs should be in the $1400.00-1600.00 range. Floor head systems are usually about double the initial expense. Also, the motor for the cleaning system is usually a 2 H.P. or larger, and the pool needs to run for substantially greater times to even get close to what a Polaris will do in ½ hour or less. Also, if you are not the initial purchaser of the system, you will not get a lifetime warrantee. Replacement gear systems, floor heads, ⦠can average more than $200.00 per year after the first 2 year, not to mention if the cleaner is not working correctly, i.e. heads jammed in the up position, actuator gears jammed, ⦠you are running that large motor with absolutely no cleaning going on. Any way you look at it, running a ¾ H.P. booster motor for 20-30 minutes is going to be a lot cheaper than running a 2 H.P. for 3-4 hours. Add into this that most motors run for more than 2 hours per day seem to have a life span in the 5-6 year range, and that a 2 H.P. motor is about double the cost, I cannot see spending the money.

4.)Suction side cleaners have a lower initial cost, but are annoying because either they will not pick up sticks, twigs, small rocks, ⦠or they will, and then they will completely stop working until you spend 10 minutes pulling them out and cleaning the debris out of them. Some of these will end up needing replacement parts just because of punctured diaphragms, ⦠This is in addition to an average annual repair cost of about $200-250, after the first year or two. In less than 5 years(More likely 3 years), if you add in electricity savings, pool cleanliness and thus chemical costs savings, and electrical savings, you have more than paid for the Polaris. If you add to this the fact that, if you have a suction side cleaner, you will have had to bring it in to the shop at least 4-5 times, having a non-functional cleaning system, thus a horridly dirty pool at least 4-5 times, the fact that often it dies a slow death each time so your pool doesnât look right for months prior to each rebuilding, and the repeated hassles of needing to unplug the system when ever any ârealâ debris ends up in the pool, and I wonât have anything else in my pool, or my families pools. To summarize, If you are buying a cleaner and are selling the home quickly, I would probably go with a pool Vac(if there are no rocks, sticks, big leaves, ⦠In other words, dirt only, but your annual repair costs will be high) or a Kreepy Krauley if you have anything else(Or want 40% less repair costs than the Pool Vac).

5.)Floor heads, or suction cleaners destroy the natural water flow around the pool which is responsible for moving the debris around to the skimmer on the surface, and for moving silt, and dirt to the main drain. Therefore, the surface areas of both sides of the pool(If the cleaners are functioning properly) will be an average of 20-40% dirtier than the same pool with a pool vac, return lines properly adjusted, and approximately ¾ of the suction of the pool going to the main drain. Also, since almost all of the suction for a suction side cleaner is directed to the cleaner, and thatâs run through an extra 30 feet or so of corrugated hose, the water flow is greatly reduced, and to get the same water filtration you will need to run that system approximately 25% -30% longer than a system without a suction cleaner. Thatâs 1 ¾ hrs longer running a 1 H.P. motor than is needed to run the ¾ H.P booster. Also, as a suction cleaner picks up debris, assuming it doesnât get plugged up and stop functioning all together, the baskets will fill up and all the suction to the pool will decrease or stop. There are times during the year where about 60% of the repair work I do is related to suction cleaning systems picking up too much debris. Note: This is never covered under any warrantee.

There is more that I could add, but I am too tired to do so now. Installation is as follows:




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What costs are involved in maintaining a pool?

Q. We are looking at buying a home with a large, above-ground pool. The house is on well/septic, so we would have to have water delivered. We've never owned a pool before and have no idea what the costs are to deliver water to fill the pool or for weekly/biweekly/monthly maintenance for a pool... and aren't sure if we pay someone to drain the pool for autumn and winter. Any ballpark estimates on costs (and/or links to helpful URLS) would be great, so that we can add these costs to the budget of buying this house and therefore seeing if we have to forget this house and look for another. Thanks!


Answer
ok. first, if u do not want to use the pool, it does not mean u cannot buy the house. u can let it sit there or turn it into a sand box or fort or give it away or even sell it.

two>shipping in water. it is my understanding that it can be VERY expensive. in santacruz CAlifornia my grandma says it costs her almost $300 usD for one truck tank. and it would last 3 days or so under normal use.

three>why couldn't you use the well water for the pool. aren't u going to bathe in it? also, if u are going to drink that water you need it tested. but definitely do look for a house that has it's own drinkable water.

next to last>safety. the pool is like a burning pit waiting to drown someone. not really but could be. and if it isn't one of yours it could be someone elses and that is sad too but also means you get sued. it needs a cover.

last>pool care.

a cover will help keep it clean and warm. but thing is, it can get so warm that you may want to leave the cover off in the summer so then you would need a fence.

the other way it gets cleaned is u scoop out debris but if u have a good filter u will not need to. A skimmer will be built in probably; that means debris floats in but can't float out. then also there may be a bottom crawler you can get; like an automatic full time vacum that crawls back and forth.

The only other maintenance it really needs is putting in chlorine. but also i think u do a pH check. My mom used to make me do it all for our pool and i had to test with a little vial and if the colors were here or there determined if i had to pour in the hydrochloric acid.

so that is two things i think. the pH and the chlorine. the chlorine i think they are a lot of the times using big pellets that time release. and then if the level drops big like after a pool party you might need to pour in a little extra.

draining the pool is done if you do not want to use it. like no heater cost. a clear or semi-opaque cover can heat it considerably but not enough in the coldest parts of winter plus in very cold areas you are looking at freeze and expansion; so draining water things is standard a lot of the time. garden hoses and lots of things can freeze with water inside and sometimes even break the thing that contains the water because of the expansion. this can be a danger during prolonged power outtages and your water pipes freeze under your house or such.

as far as how you drain it. if there is no plug, then siphon it with a garden hose. If you do not wish the chlorine to go onto vegetation, then let the level in the pool drop before draining it. it drops because chlorine evaporates to the atmosphere.

here is a directory of various home topic discussion boards:
http://www.dmoz.org/Home/

if you need parts or help then here is doughboy's site:
http://www.doughboypool.co.uk/

and more above ground pool sites:
http://search.yahoo.com/search?p=above+ground+pools+care&ei=utf-8&fr=b1ie7

i am not sure what extent the parts are interchangable. but they might be. so if they were it would pay to shop around if you ever had to replace the vinyl liner or such.

local pool supply is interested in helping you to know these things because they want you to buy from them. so query them as to chlorine tablet size and such. bring with you pool dimensions or other info.

Is high school diving safe??? How can I keep from hitting the bottom?




Greg


Hi, I am 16 years old, and I just went to my first High School diving practice tonight. I am a little worried about the safety of it though, because when doing a pike save (rolling inward under water so as to not hurt your back), I sometimes stop moving like 2.5-3ft from the bottom of the pool, and I can't stop wondering, what if I pike too late? Will i hit my head/ back and become paralyzed or injured?

What do you think about this and the safety of diving, especially for someone just starting that has no history of gymnastics or anything?



Answer
The purpose of the pike save is not to protect the back, it's to 'save' (i.e. clean up) a poor (non-vertical) entry, so you don't get marked down so much by the judges. It helps to minimise the amount of splash you produce, and also reduces the 'sting' from slight over-rotation. A side effect is that you don't go as deep as you would if you held the vertical entry position. If that's the first thing they're teaching you, I would suggest either that your school diving pit is too shallow (unlikely, since these things are subject to federal/ international standards), or that your school is terrified of lawsuits of any description (very likely, given that you're--presumably--in the US).

I have dived in multiple pools in the UK, and the minimum depth under a 3 m springboard was always ~3.5 m (11 ft) or more. This was more than sufficient that, even on a clean vertical entry, though I might touch bottom, I would never hit it hard enough to hurt. Anyway, you hit the water with your hands locked above your head, thus it's your hands which would strike the bottom first, and you can then cushion the impact with your arms. The risk of paralysis is minimal, so don't worry about it. Even if you leave the roll a little late, as soon as you start to roll, you will instantly slow/ stop your descent. Just keep your hands overhead until after you start the roll.

Diving's a relatively safe sport, though, certainly compared to e.g. football. The most common injury is the sting from a bad entry, which admittedly hurts like a b***h for a couple of minutes, but does little if any lasting damage--except to your confidence, if you let it. The worst thing is probably hitting the board during the flight, but that only happens if you get the takeoff completely wrong, and THEN try to perform your dive anyway. Better to just abort the movement, and try again (although doing so in competition will earn you an automatic 'failed dive').




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Rabu, 05 Februari 2014

i have a Kontiki 2 automatic pool vacuum. it does not seem to work at all. anyone have any suggestions?




ncpirate7





Answer
The only place I have seen this cleaner is on EBay. The seller claims it is made by Zodiac. It appears there is little if any difference between the G3 and Kontiki, except the color. Zodiac does not mention this model on their site but they do have a troubleshooting guide that discusses the G3. You may want to look at this guide to help determine if you can make some adjustments http://www.baracuda.com/tech_help.htm . The EBay seller also lists a 1 year warranty on this cleaner.

I just bought an above ground pool and I am trying to decide between 2 automatic pool cleaners?




pink


Which do you think is better the Kontiki 2 automatic cleaner or the Whale automatic cleaner? Any thoughts???


Answer
I couldn't really find any information on either of those.
Try this forum:
http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/archive/index.php/f-146.html

Or, here are some other cleaners to consider:
http://www.epinions.com/hmgd-Pool_and_Patio-Pool_Equipment-Cleaning_Supplies-All




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what is the best above ground pool automatic vacumn?




buddysher3


i have a 24 round pool what like some feedback on automatic cleaners there are so many choices


Answer
Have you tried doing the "sneaky" thing... call around to pool cleaners and ask them what equipment they use to clean the pools? If they have any recommendations for automatic vacuums? Trust me, as a house cleaner, if anyone calls me and asks for my advice as to what equipment I think is best, I wholeheartedly give them my recommendations.... both pro and con! I'm sure you can find some leads if you ask!

Good Luck!

What do I need in order to clean a pool?




The Super


It is a heated gunite chlorine pool. I have no experience with pools.
Need to know everything from proper chemicals to cleaning equipment. The pool is already open and swimmable, I just need to keep it clean and maintain it. Possibly close the pool at the end of the season.
I don't have any equipment except for the automatic filter that is currently running.

What about those automatic pool vacuum things?
Thank you for your help
Also, if you could point me in the direction of cheaper places to buy the supplies, like online vendors. I'm in New York.



Answer
I would start out with a good water test kit, preferably a liquid drop type. I feel they are much more accurate than the test strips.
Secondly, get some pool tools: a pool pole, net, brush, vacuum (either an automatic unit or a manual vacuum head,and vacuum hose).
Then you will want chemicals. I would suggest talking about that with someone from a local pool company / store. Some chemicals work better than others based on your region.
Lastly, you might consider getting a lesson in pool care from a REPUTABLE pool service company. Check out: Yelp.com, angieslist.com or Google maps for reviews.

I personally do something like that for my customers. I call it "pool school". It generally takes about an hour or so, to go over the basics of pool care. Bring a pen and paper for note taking.




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What is the best automatic inground pool cleaner? What brand and price?




Francaise


Its a vinyl inground pool. Rectangular 18x36. Also budget is an issue, I am looking at spending $500 or less.


Answer
After 25 years of hearing how great floor head systems are, I have come to a conclusion. If your pool would have stayed looking nice with any cleaning system in your pool, it will stay nice with a floor head system.
If you plan on owning a pool for 5-6 years, or longer, in my opinion the best cleaning system(Dollar for Dollar) is a Polaris 280 with a booster pump and a separate time clock. The reasons are as follows:
1.)Low cost of repairs. I have clients with Polaris 180âs that are 25 years old. (The 280 has the same drive system.) Total repair costs in 25 years are less than $300.00 total (Not counting bag replacements.) I Personally, have owned a Polaris 280 for almost 5 years and have not spent a dime. (other than on 2 bags, and one of them was torn by my kids, and the other by a big pine cone. )

2.)It will clean most pools spotless in 10-20 minutes per day. You have seen our (5) 40â plus Ponderosa pines that overhang our pool area. Not counting steps and love seat, if we keep the bag cleaned, the floor stays spotless.

3.)Initial installation costs should be in the $1400.00-1600.00 range. Floor head systems are usually about double the initial expense. Also, the motor for the cleaning system is usually a 2 H.P. or larger, and the pool needs to run for substantially greater times to even get close to what a Polaris will do in ½ hour or less. Also, if you are not the initial purchaser of the system, you will not get a lifetime warrantee. Replacement gear systems, floor heads, ⦠can average more than $200.00 per year after the first 2 year, not to mention if the cleaner is not working correctly, i.e. heads jammed in the up position, actuator gears jammed, ⦠you are running that large motor with absolutely no cleaning going on. Any way you look at it, running a ¾ H.P. booster motor for 20-30 minutes is going to be a lot cheaper than running a 2 H.P. for 3-4 hours. Add into this that most motors run for more than 2 hours per day seem to have a life span in the 5-6 year range, and that a 2 H.P. motor is about double the cost, I cannot see spending the money.

4.)Suction side cleaners have a lower initial cost, but are annoying because either they will not pick up sticks, twigs, small rocks, ⦠or they will, and then they will completely stop working until you spend 10 minutes pulling them out and cleaning the debris out of them. Some of these will end up needing replacement parts just because of punctured diaphragms, ⦠This is in addition to an average annual repair cost of about $200-250, after the first year or two. In less than 5 years(More likely 3 years), if you add in electricity savings, pool cleanliness and thus chemical costs savings, and electrical savings, you have more than paid for the Polaris. If you add to this the fact that, if you have a suction side cleaner, you will have had to bring it in to the shop at least 4-5 times, having a non-functional cleaning system, thus a horridly dirty pool at least 4-5 times, the fact that often it dies a slow death each time so your pool doesnât look right for months prior to each rebuilding, and the repeated hassles of needing to unplug the system when ever any ârealâ debris ends up in the pool, and I wonât have anything else in my pool, or my families pools. To summarize, If you are buying a cleaner and are selling the home quickly, I would probably go with a pool Vac(if there are no rocks, sticks, big leaves, ⦠In other words, dirt only, but your annual repair costs will be high) or a Kreepy Krauley if you have anything else(Or want 40% less repair costs than the Pool Vac).

5.)Floor heads, or suction cleaners destroy the natural water flow around the pool which is responsible for moving the debris around to the skimmer on the surface, and for moving silt, and dirt to the main drain. Therefore, the surface areas of both sides of the pool(If the cleaners are functioning properly) will be an average of 20-40% dirtier than the same pool with a pool vac, return lines properly adjusted, and approximately ¾ of the suction of the pool going to the main drain. Also, since almost all of the suction for a suction side cleaner is directed to the cleaner, and thatâs run through an extra 30 feet or so of corrugated hose, the water flow is greatly reduced, and to get the same water filtration you will need to run that system approximately 25% -30% longer than a system without a suction cleaner. Thatâs 1 ¾ hrs longer running a 1 H.P. motor than is needed to run the ¾ H.P booster. Also, as a suction cleaner picks up debris, assuming it doesnât get plugged up and stop functioning all together, the baskets will fill up and all the suction to the pool will decrease or stop. There are times during the year where about 60% of the repair work I do is related to suction cleaning systems picking up too much debris. Note: This is never covered under any warrantee.

There is more that I could add, but I am too tired to do so now. Installation is as follows:

What's the best automatic pool cleaner?




ce


Polaris, Aquabot, Dolphin, Orion or some other one?


Answer
I have a Polaris 360. Does a good job for the amount of money. Gets stuck in the corners quite allot. I've had it for 3 years and the only thing I have had to do is change the wheels. They were worn down. I also have changed the bag that collects the debris.




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Senin, 03 Februari 2014

how much does an inground pool cost?




limetemple


medium size


Answer
Medium size would be an 18 x 36. Costs of construction can vary enormously. Expect that size pool to start at about 18,000 canadian dollars for a vinyl inground. A concrete (gunite) pool would be about 28 grand to start.
Extra costs can be incurred if the access to the dig is difficult, material has to be trucked father away to dump, if the area the dig is in is in a high water table or is very rocky.. The toys you want with the pool, like water falls or adjacent hot tubs. The pool equipment packages can vary from basic to hi tech advanced remote wall unit controls in the house for heat, automatic pool cleaner controls and even one touch and forget, timed pool fill valves.

Can anyone tell me how Automatic Gold Dredgers work?




Man-eo


I have been trying to figure out how something that separates the gold from the mud/sand work??

and i am getting NO WERE, lol.

Can someone explain it to me?



Answer
No prob, I live in gold country. There are the floating self sustaining dredges. They are fairly small dredges on floats. They are usually anchored. There's a suction hose that acts similarly to an automatic pool cleaning device. It moves around the bottom and deposits the silt i.e. mud/sand into a shaker box where water is continually run through. Since gold is more dense/heavier than sand/mud it tends to not be washed away. It all has to do with the periodic table of elements and their mass. What it comes down to is a filtering action where the heaviest particles stay and the lighter slag is washed away. There's also a less autonomous system where a diver uses the suction hose and manually vacuums the bottom. Hope it helps.




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what is the best above groung automatic pool cleaner?




chris j


what do u guys and gals think the best above ground AUTOMATIC pool cleaner is the best. i have a baracuda zippy now it did ok for a while now its just dead. please give me some SERIOUS answers. i know my kids can do it. im looking for some advice. thanks you in advance.


Answer
I do realize you said serious advice ... but I can't help myself. Actually I have a "spider" cleaner that I sometimes have used in my above ground pool - BUT ... in all seriousness - I now have a "pool boy" ... not the speedo kind - but a gentleman that comes weekly from my pool chemical supply place for a cost of only $35 weekly + chemicals. Money well spent! Just wanted to let you know to check into it because it is probably more affordable than you realize. The fellow brings chemicals and adds them as needed and that cost then is added to my charge ticket.

It is nice to not have to worry about time consuming (although relaxing) cleaning. It never gets out of hand due to weather or heat etc. All we have to do is come in from work & enjoy the water.

Good luck.

What's the best automatic pool cleaner?




Laura T


I need an automatic pool cleaner, what's my best choise for no more than $200


Answer
From past experience and I assume this is an inground vinyl pool, Kreepy Krauly offers the best bang for the buck and you ought to be able to find one on sale around your budget.They're pretty bullet proof and do a good job.
If this is an in ground concrete pool, you'll need to budget a little more. Kreepy will work, but you'll run through pleats if your finish is rough.
If this is an above ground, something like a Polaris 65 would fit your budget and do a good job for that type of pool.




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Minggu, 02 Februari 2014

I am looking to purchase an automatic pool cleaner, any suggestions? ?




Chris


I have an in-ground vinyl liner pool that is 17x36. At its deepest point, it is 8.5 feet deep with sloped walls and tight corners going down. (Someone called it a diving pool?) I want one that is self contained and doesn't hook up to my filter. I was originally looking at the Dolphin Diagnostic Advantage (DL2019) In-Ground Robotic Pool Cleaner but am open for suggestions. Anyone have any experience with these or can throw me some pros or cons of a different type? I am not willing to spend more than a $1,000.00.


Answer
Look at any of the Polaris products. They come in several different types of pool cleaners and price range.


Google:

Reviews and prices on automatic pool cleaners.



:-)

how does an above ground automatic pool cleaner work??




Hugeez





Answer
Not well enough that you won't need to still remove leaves and other big items. I thought installing one would work. I even got one of those bottom cleaners, and still I have to have the pool guy come once every month!!! There is no real cure for the pool cleaner!!!!
Sorry, I thought you were talking about built in pools......




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Is a salt water pool better than fresh water for your health,and also for cleaning out pool after?




Fairbanks





Answer
I reckon you're asking about salt generators.
There are many out on the market and their popularity has grown over the last 10 years. About half of all new pools being installed these days are set up with a salt generator.
There's something you should know about these generators. Most people believe that this is a non chlorine system. It actually is chlorine based. The idea behind these generators is to change salt into chlorine. Chlorine is actually a form of salt that's a little more "energized" than normal table salt. It's that property that allows it to effectively sanitize a pool.
With a salt generated pool, the actual salinity of the water is quite low. So low that unless you have exceptional taste buds, you won't taste it. You won't float any differently either than in fresh water.
There are a number of advantages with going salt. First and foremost is the "feel" of the water. A salt generated pool is a lot easier on eyes and skin than a traditionally chlorinated pool. The water is "softer". Because the chlorine produced by the unit is in a low constant dose, there's no high amount of chlorine in there to bother a person but it's still high enough and produced almost constantly, to keep the pool looking good. Another reason to go salt is the cost savings over time. These units are expensive initially but save a lot of money in chemicals that you don't need to add anymore. No more shock unless you get into trouble, less acid and less TA adjustment chems are needed as well. Salt generated pools tend to stay pretty stable in the water chemistry department. More so than any other form of sanitizer system. These systems are also automatic. You basically just set them and forget them with just a once a week check of the LCD screen on the control panel to make sure there's no issues. Maintenance usually just consists of a once a year cell cleaning which doesn't take long and the home owner can do this themselves.
The one drawback they have is the need to check your stabilizer levels a little more often than you normally do with a normal chlorine pool. You aren't using pucks anymore ( they have stabilizer in them) and you'll have to compensate for that when required. You'll also have to keep an eye on your salinity and add salt if required. This will happen once or twice per year with a sand filtered pool ( you're backwashing), only once as a rule with a cartridge or DE filter.
I disagree with what the other poster has said regarding retrofitting an older pool with salt. You can do it no problem at all. The only thing that would hinder that is if the pool were on Bromine before switching to salt/chlorine. In this case you'd have to dump the water since Bromine isn't compatible. If you're on chlorine now, it's not an issue. The only other thing I can think of that may be an issue is the pool's electrical grounding. If the pool was built properly it will be properly electrically bonded and there is no issue. If the pool builder cut corners and didn't bond the structure, ladders etc then there might be a corrosion issue 10 years down the road. It's easy enough to fix before the installation of the salt unit.
I also disagree with the other poster in that you DON'T need to still add chlorine. If the unit was sized and installed properly, it will work just fine by itself with no need for any additional chlorine unless you have a hundred kids suddenly using the pool and weren't prepared for it. Preparation is a simple matter of turning a knob on the control unit to up the amount of sanitizer produced before the party. That's it.
As a former pool tech and I was given the choice on what to use for a sanitizer system, I'd go salt in a heart beat. Less hassle, less overall cost and more enjoyment of the pool. So the answer to your question is yes salt generated pools are healthier and you're going to be cleaning any type of sanitized pool out. They all get dirty.

Regression Problem- Confim my Anwers Please?




sabunabu


Please see the below and my answers-- please let me know if you disagree and also if you know the answers to the 2 questions I don't. Any help is greatly appreciated.

PoolVac, Inc. manufactures and sells a single product called the âSting Ray,â which is a patent-protected automatic cleaning device for swimming pools. PoolVacâs Sting Ray accounts for 65 percent of total industry sales of automatic pool cleaners. Its closest competitor, Howard Industries, has captured 18 percent of the market.

Using the last 26 months of its sales data, PoolVac wishes to estimate demand for its Sting Ray. Demand for Sting Rays is specified to be a linear function of its price (P), average income for households that have swimming pools in the U.S (MAVG) and the price of the competing pool cleaner sold by Howard Industries (PH). The general linear form of the demand function

Qd = a + b P + c MAVG + d PH.

The attached computer printout presents the regression output from 26 observations (monthly data) on the price charged for a Sting Ray (P), average income of households with pools (MAVG), and the price Howard industries charged for its pool cleaner (PH).
âââââ ââââââââââââââââââââ
The printout of part of regression output from Minitab for the empirical demand is below:

Regression Analysis: Q versus P, MAVG, PH

Predictor Coef SE Coef T P
Constant 2728.8 531.7 5.13 0.000
P -10.758 1.330 -8.09 0.000
MAVG 0.021420 0.009452 2.27 0.034
PH 3.166 1.344 2.36 0.028

S = 73.0546 R-Sq = 96.6% R-Sq(adj) = 96.2%

Analysis of Variance

Source DF SS MS F P
Regression 3 3379846 1126615 211.10 0.000
Residual Error 22 117414 5337
Total 25 3497260

Source DF Seq SS
P 1 3327368
MAVG 1 22878
PH 1 29600


ââââââââââââââââââââââââââââ
1. An estimated demand equation for PoolVac is:
Qd = 2728.8-10.758P+0.021420M+3.166Ph


2. Evaluate the statistical significance of the three estimated slope parameters using a significance level of .05 or 5 percent (you can either use p-values or do a t-test).Please, explain how you decided each parameter was statistically significant or not.

Since the P values of all 3 variables are within the 5% confidence interval, each variable should be considered as staristically significant in determining the demand of the pool vacuums.


3. What is the exact level of statistical significance for estimated slope parameters on price, average income of household and price of related good? Please, explain how you know.

We should look at the P value for each of the slope parameters and in doing so, we find that price is 100% significant, average income (Mavg) is 96.6% (100-.034) and price of competition (Ph) is 97.2% significant (100-.028).


4. Discuss the appropriateness and/or interpretations of the algebraic signs of the three slope parameters, based on your theoretical expectations. Interpret the numerical values of the three slope parameters in the context of this regression.


5. Now evaluate the overall fit of the estimated (sample) regression equation to the data.

a. What percentage of variability in Qd (linear) is explained by a model? Does it indicate a good overall fit? Please, explain.


b. Verify whether the overall regression equation is statistically significant, another words, verify the goodness of overall fit .What is the exact level of significance for the entire regression equation?

Looking at the F stat which is 211.1, we can say the overall regression equation is significant since the absolute value is large. Also, the P value is 0 so there is no chance that this regression equation doesnât explain the relationship between the given variables and quantity demanded.



Answer
All of your answers are good. To say that the F statistic has a large absolute value is a little vague; one would generally either consult an F table to the appropriate threshold value or just look at the P value in the computer output. On the other hand, it isn't wrong, and if your instructor taught it that way you should leave it in.

Regarding the questions you haven't answered, number 4 refers to the direction of the effects on your dependent variable that come with changes in the independent variables. You should look at your coefficients and consider what would happen if you changed the values in your variables. For example, if the price of the product goes up, demand for the product goes down because of the negative coefficient associated with the price variable. If this seems confusing, try plugging in some different values into the equation and calculating the result. The negative coefficient makes sense, because people are going to be less interested in buying something if its more expensive. The question is asking you to evaluate both the actual effects on demand and the expected effects for each of the variables.

Question 5a refers to the R-squared statistic (R-Sq), which is the percent of explained variability as mentioned in the question. Yours is quite high.




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How expensive is it to maintain an in-ground pool?

Q. We are VERY interested in a house and are seriously considering making an offer. The only thing holding me back is that the house has an inground pool. Personally, I hate inground pools. They seem like so much work, maintenance and are such a huge liability. We have small children and I just don't feel safe about it at all. Because of this, we will offer much less than what they are asking.

The sellers insist that its not that bad though. I beg to differ. Constant cleaning, all the pumps and motors and such, the items we'd have to buy to childproof it (there are none installed currently), all the chemicals and let's not forget the increase in home insurance due to the liability of the pool. So, my question to pool owners is, how much does it REALLY cost to maintain the pool?


Answer
We bought a house with an in-ground pool about 10 years ago. We also have two small children and were in the same dilema. It has been worth it. The yearly maintenance is relatively easy. If you take care of the pool, bring the filter/pump in to the house in the off season (if you live in areas that you wouldn't use it year round). We use the pool May-Oct. We have large oak trees, but the daily and weekly care is not bad. I vacuum once a week, I have an automatic chlorinator (not expensive), and the return jets are set up so that the pool skims itself. The monthly cost for chemicals is not bad, after the initial "opening" of the pool (apprx $100-150) I spend about $20 a month. The learning curve goes quickly, just find a good pool person to advise you. I spend less than 15 minutes every other day checking it, doing a quick skim or adding chlorine.
We also had big concerns with pool safety. We did two things to help. One was to teach the kids how to get to the side of the pool and hold on if they fell in, we taught them how to swim early and we put locks on the doors to the outside with an audible alarm. The pool alarm that goes in the water does not work well, not worth the money.

If you really want the house but don't want the pool you can get a safety cover, drain the pool and not use it. The cost of filling in the hole and making a lawn is relative to running it for a few years. I had a friend that had his filled.

But, the kids have used it for years, they love it, spend a lot of time in it, and learned to swim very well and to respect the water....good luck!

Pros and cons of getting a backyard pool?




poolgirl22


Inground. I guess I know the pros. Wanting to know if the pros outweigh the cons. I have a 5 & 10 yr old. Is maintaining it overly costly or time consuming. I would be the pool guy.


Answer
Get the pool, but only if you are willing to "feed it" just as you would a pet. DAILY-- even when you can't use it because it's too cold. You must commit to cleaning (made easier by automatic cleaners), checking and adjusting chemicals, emptying bags and baskets, adding water to it. Higher utility bills are a given. Pools don't cost much in repairs UNTIL the warranties expire. Then get ready!
And, most importantly, do NOT buy price! Quality costs money. Remember, this fixture is attached to your property and can add to-- or take away from-- your property value. It will not add as much value as it's cost, however.
Consider a pool as you would a room addition. An outdoor room!




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