Selasa, 22 April 2014

what is best automatic pool cleaner vaccuum for in ground pool?




john p


i know some have their own filter and some use the pools filter, but im looking for a low maintenance, inexpensive and good cleaning unit without alot of parts that break. anyone like the polaris 165?


Answer
Depends on wether you get mostly leaves or dirt.
If you get lots of leaves,a pressure side cleaner like polaris or hayward viper is best
If you get mostly dirt,then I would say a suction cleaner like a kreepy krauly or hayward navigator

I'm looking to buy an automatic pool cleaner for an in-ground pool. Any suggestions on best brand and type?

Q.


Answer
You didn't mention your budget. If you're looking to spend 300 dollars or under, then from a service guy's point of view on effectiveness, cost, ease of repair, least things that go wrong with them, it's a Kreepy Krauly, hands down.
Sure Baracudda markets itself as having no moving parts, but the one part that does all the action also wears out on a yearly basis. If you ask me, it's also a moving part, so their literature is pretty misleading.
If you're budget allows spending over a grand, then the Polaris vac sweep 360 or 380 is most certainly the way to go. The only issue here is if your pool currently has a plumbing line going to the pool it can use. Without one, you'll have to go the over deck route, which then is a hose to trip over, lying on the deck. That's the only drawback.
These two cleaners are totally different in their collection and operation. The Kreepy uses suction side plumbing (debris to the pump basket and filter), the Polaris uses pressure side, with it's own booster pump and it's collection is a bag attached to the Polaris head.




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Senin, 21 April 2014

What is the best automatic inground pool cleaner? What brand and price?




Francaise


Its a vinyl inground pool. Rectangular 18x36. Also budget is an issue, I am looking at spending $500 or less.


Answer
After 25 years of hearing how great floor head systems are, I have come to a conclusion. If your pool would have stayed looking nice with any cleaning system in your pool, it will stay nice with a floor head system.
If you plan on owning a pool for 5-6 years, or longer, in my opinion the best cleaning system(Dollar for Dollar) is a Polaris 280 with a booster pump and a separate time clock. The reasons are as follows:
1.)Low cost of repairs. I have clients with Polaris 180âs that are 25 years old. (The 280 has the same drive system.) Total repair costs in 25 years are less than $300.00 total (Not counting bag replacements.) I Personally, have owned a Polaris 280 for almost 5 years and have not spent a dime. (other than on 2 bags, and one of them was torn by my kids, and the other by a big pine cone. )

2.)It will clean most pools spotless in 10-20 minutes per day. You have seen our (5) 40â plus Ponderosa pines that overhang our pool area. Not counting steps and love seat, if we keep the bag cleaned, the floor stays spotless.

3.)Initial installation costs should be in the $1400.00-1600.00 range. Floor head systems are usually about double the initial expense. Also, the motor for the cleaning system is usually a 2 H.P. or larger, and the pool needs to run for substantially greater times to even get close to what a Polaris will do in ½ hour or less. Also, if you are not the initial purchaser of the system, you will not get a lifetime warrantee. Replacement gear systems, floor heads, ⦠can average more than $200.00 per year after the first 2 year, not to mention if the cleaner is not working correctly, i.e. heads jammed in the up position, actuator gears jammed, ⦠you are running that large motor with absolutely no cleaning going on. Any way you look at it, running a ¾ H.P. booster motor for 20-30 minutes is going to be a lot cheaper than running a 2 H.P. for 3-4 hours. Add into this that most motors run for more than 2 hours per day seem to have a life span in the 5-6 year range, and that a 2 H.P. motor is about double the cost, I cannot see spending the money.

4.)Suction side cleaners have a lower initial cost, but are annoying because either they will not pick up sticks, twigs, small rocks, ⦠or they will, and then they will completely stop working until you spend 10 minutes pulling them out and cleaning the debris out of them. Some of these will end up needing replacement parts just because of punctured diaphragms, ⦠This is in addition to an average annual repair cost of about $200-250, after the first year or two. In less than 5 years(More likely 3 years), if you add in electricity savings, pool cleanliness and thus chemical costs savings, and electrical savings, you have more than paid for the Polaris. If you add to this the fact that, if you have a suction side cleaner, you will have had to bring it in to the shop at least 4-5 times, having a non-functional cleaning system, thus a horridly dirty pool at least 4-5 times, the fact that often it dies a slow death each time so your pool doesnât look right for months prior to each rebuilding, and the repeated hassles of needing to unplug the system when ever any ârealâ debris ends up in the pool, and I wonât have anything else in my pool, or my families pools. To summarize, If you are buying a cleaner and are selling the home quickly, I would probably go with a pool Vac(if there are no rocks, sticks, big leaves, ⦠In other words, dirt only, but your annual repair costs will be high) or a Kreepy Krauley if you have anything else(Or want 40% less repair costs than the Pool Vac).

5.)Floor heads, or suction cleaners destroy the natural water flow around the pool which is responsible for moving the debris around to the skimmer on the surface, and for moving silt, and dirt to the main drain. Therefore, the surface areas of both sides of the pool(If the cleaners are functioning properly) will be an average of 20-40% dirtier than the same pool with a pool vac, return lines properly adjusted, and approximately ¾ of the suction of the pool going to the main drain. Also, since almost all of the suction for a suction side cleaner is directed to the cleaner, and thatâs run through an extra 30 feet or so of corrugated hose, the water flow is greatly reduced, and to get the same water filtration you will need to run that system approximately 25% -30% longer than a system without a suction cleaner. Thatâs 1 ¾ hrs longer running a 1 H.P. motor than is needed to run the ¾ H.P booster. Also, as a suction cleaner picks up debris, assuming it doesnât get plugged up and stop functioning all together, the baskets will fill up and all the suction to the pool will decrease or stop. There are times during the year where about 60% of the repair work I do is related to suction cleaning systems picking up too much debris. Note: This is never covered under any warrantee.

There is more that I could add, but I am too tired to do so now. Installation is as follows:

What's the best automatic pool cleaner?




ce


Polaris, Aquabot, Dolphin, Orion or some other one?


Answer
I have a Polaris 360. Does a good job for the amount of money. Gets stuck in the corners quite allot. I've had it for 3 years and the only thing I have had to do is change the wheels. They were worn down. I also have changed the bag that collects the debris.




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I have some questions about my pool?

Q. I have some questions about my pool?
We bought a new house with a in ground pool........ We had the professionals come and get our pool going for the summer . They put the filter together got it running and added the shock. They told us a lot of info about maintaining it but I am still kinda confused. The pool looks pretty clear at this point . Here are my questions .
1 when I vacuum in the beginning when there is a lot of debree do I always have to back wash my filter ?
2 when I do backwash do I always have to add more DE to the filter through the skimmer . ( 6 cups he said ) but 6 cups every time ?
3 Do I do the backwash and then do the rinse cycle ?
4 There is an automatic chlorinator do I need to put the tablets in and it will do the rest or do I have to set it up ? was there chlorine in the shock so I don't add more ?
5 We have the ph plus and ph minus chemicals do I add the chlorine then check the levels and adjust in according to that ? PH is dealing with the chlorine levels rite ?
Any info would be appreciated thanks


Answer
Here ya go:
You should know what back washing is. In your filter you have screens. The openings in the screens are not small enough to thoroughly filter the water so the water stays clear. You add diatomaceous earth (DE). DE is large enough to catch on the filter screens while allowing openings that are so small that they create a better filter for the water. The filter screens are coated with DE. Water passes through the DE & is, assuming the chemicals are correct, very clean.

When you back wash, you turn the pump off & adjust the valves. Valves control the direction of the flow of water & by adjusting the valves you reverse the flow of water through the filters. By reversing the flow of water, the water washes the DE off the pool filters & the "dirty" DE is washed out of the system.

1. With regard to the effect of debris & back washing, the answer is "DEPENDS" and this is why. You only need to backwash when the pressure in your filter goes up about 6-8 pounds from the "new" back wash level. After you backwash, look at the pressure. Let's say it's at 12 pounds. When the pressure gets up to 18 to 20 pounds, then backwash as that means that the DE is 'full' and can no longer filter the water.

2. Thus, after you back wash you must re-coat the filter screens. So, the answer to your question is YES. Tou will add, per what "he" said, 6 cups. When you add the DE, you'll have already re-adjusted the filter valves so the water is flowing in the normal direction. Add the DE through the skimmers by slowly pouring it into the water& stirring it up with your hand. You can also use a large bucket full of water. Pour the 6 cups of DE into the water in the bucket & stir the DE into the water. Then simply pour the solution into a skimmer. DO NOT put the DE directly into the pool as it will settle to the bottom of the pool & not get into the filters.

3. Back washing & rinsing are the same thing.

4. Yes, you need to put tablets in the automatic chlorinator. If you shocked the pool (shock is really just a ton of chlorine), wait to refurbish the chlorinator as the chlorine levels of the pool will be very high. You should monitor the chlorine level of the pool and when it gets down to around 3.0 then start putting the tablets in chlorinator. Maintain chlorine levels as close to 1.0 to 2.0 as possible.

5. If you are using chlorine tablets the pH of the pool will rise. When the pH rises you risk the accumulation of a scale or calculus inside of the pipes. If enough scale accumulates it can actually plug up the pipes. To counter that rise you add acid which lowers the pH. Ideal pH levels are from 7.2 to 7.4.

You can buy the acid in most stores. It is called MURIATIC ACID (acid) and is probably cheaper than buying the product called pH MINUS. If the pH of the pool gets too low then the water is becoming acidic and that can oxidize (or corrode) the pipes. That, of course, would be a very expensive repair as would be the repair from scale build up from high pH. Although a change in pH is caused by chlorine it is not a measure of the chlorine. Both levels (chlorine and pH) must be monitored & adjusted as needed.

With regard to using liquid acid vs. pH minus ...The pH minus is a bit safer to use as it comes in a granulated form as opposed to a liquid. Acid should also be added ONLY to the deep end of the pool as when added to the shallow end it might not get diluted quickly enough & by the time it reaches the bottom of the pool it is still so strong it can etch the plaster. When adding acid to the deep end, pour a small steady stream into the water while walking around the pool. It's easy to do.

Personally, I used acid. It is easy to pour out of a bottle. Start off using small amounts as you can always add more. Wait an hour after the pour and test the pH. Plus acid is MUCH much less expensive than pH minus. The acid is also more easily available as it is frequently sold in grocery stores & home improvement stores as well as pool supply stores where, pH minus is rarely sold in many stores. If you were to get acid on your skin, all you do is step into the pool & rinse your skin. Just keep it away from the kids.

The only reason you'd need to have pH Plus around would be in case you put too much acid (or pH minus) in the pool & you need to balance the pH. However, you can also use a powder called SODA ASH, which HUGELY less expensive, instead of pH plus.

One last thing, don't be frightened by what I've said about using the acid & it eating up the pipes. It takes a number of repetitions over years of abuse for the pipes to be dramatically effected.

how to clean my pool at home with only the cleaning tablets.?




mom


i have a 12'x30" pool it holds 1,718 gallons of water.the pump filters 530 gallons of water per hour. the pool by morning is green and slimmy. the bottom of the pool is covered in green and brown crud?


Answer
Cleaning your pool is a must to ensure bather comfort and protect your equipment. How to clean your pool is simple, and we've asked pool professional John Kistler to fill us in on the whys of pool cleaning.
Instructions
Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Steps:

Step 1 Use a manual brush and pool vacuum on all areas of the walls and floor at least once a week, even if your pool is equipped with an automatic system, says John Kistler of Sunflower Pool & Spa in Salina, Kansas. There are some places in every pool that the automatic cleaning systems miss.

Step 2 Pay particular attention to corners, stairs and other hard-to-reach areas that get little circulation.

Step 3 Keep your pool maintained. A clean pool is also a function of a working filtration system and proper pH levels. Use a sanitizer to help fight bacteria, and shock the pool on a regular basis (see How to Shock a Pool) to help keep it clean and crystal-clear.




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Where can I purchase repair/replacement parts DIRECT(online or store) for my Jandy RS6 pool controller?

Q. My Power Center got struck by lightning (not directly) and fried the low voltage board/bezel and the installer FORGOT to order & install the OPTIONAL surge protection kit in S Florida where we get more lightning strikes than anywhere else in the world. I am an electrician and metered everything and the the only item that is definitely bad is the board. Every else is within spec. I know the system inside and out and can install the board and surge protector myself so I do not need and expensive specialist. The sad thing is that when that particular item is bad, NOTHING works. Poole gets nasty very quickly. If anyone has had the same problem and found a work around, I would love to hear about it. The only thing I did so far was to rewire the pump directly to a timer switch off a spare breaker. At least, I can run the filter and automatic suction cleaner but it sucks when you have this nice, expensive automated system that might as well be a boat anchor because nearly all you do is back to manual.


Answer
ebay local pool supply store




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does anyone know how to fix a robo Kleen above ground pool cleaner?

Q. My Robo Kleen automatic above ground pool cleaner worked at first, then it began running a little forward and a little backwards then it stopped altogether?


Answer
Is this the one that runs on pool suction ? I had one that ran that way and it would clog up if leaves or debris got in it.

How does the automatic swimming pool cleaners work?

Q. How does the automatic swimming pool cleaners work? do you know, is it continentï¼


Answer
It's so continent.

The way that Automatic Pool Cleaner works is the key to its reliable, trouble-free operation. With just one operational moving part, it converts the water flow generated by your pool's pump into kinetic energy. Here's how: the water flow first moves the flapper (the only operational moving part) to the top position, causing one drive tube to close. Water is drawn in through the open drive tube, which causes the flapper to move to the bottom position. This repetitive process creates the motion which propels the cleaner around the pool.




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Minggu, 20 April 2014

What kind of pool vacuum works well with the intex metal frame 16x48 pool?

Q. Help, I need to find a better vacuum for my intex 16x48 metal frame above ground pool. The one that came with it doesn't clean very well and I'm having a hard time finding a vacuum hose that fits my 2inch inlet adapter.


Answer
You can find automatic pool cleaners that are made for above ground metal frame pools on the website below.

What can i do about an above ground pool that has yellow water?

Q. My younger sister got an above ground intex pool for her 7th birthday. It's been set up for a month now, and the water is starting to turn yellow. We bought a PH testing kit which also gives results for free chlorine, total alkalinity and stabilizer. The PH level results were 7.8, which is supposed to be pretty normal. There was absolutely no free chlorine, and the total alkalinity too high (200). The stabilizer was also far too low.
I really don't know what to do about it. We live in a city of 40,000 but there are no places here that give advice for pool care (probably because it doesn't get overly warm here in summer)
The paper that came with the testing kit suggested that we put sodium bisulfate into the pool to lower the alkalinity, but i have no idea what that is.
Does anyone know what to do about this? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!


Answer
Your PH of 7.8 sounds to be a little on the high side. I think the nominal is supposed to be around 7.2. As far as maintenance, what kind of filtration system do you have? This can make a huge difference in how clean your pool water stays. I've never used sodium bi-sulfate and couldn't even tell you what this is product does. Maybe a google search will reveal more about how it works, how to use it, and where to purchase it if you want to go that route. In my pool I've never had to add anything but chlorine, stabilizer, and occasionally a touch of algaecide. You might want to consider using an automatic chlorinator with chlorine tablets which will administer chlorine to the pool regularly. I also use granulated stabilizer administered through a nylon stocking tied off on the side of the pool to help extend the life of your chlorine in the water. This works for me, but from what you describe, I imagine your must live in a climate far different than mine. Where I live, it is now almost full-blown winter time, and outdoor swimming is an impossibility. It also gets plenty hot in the summer, with temperatures occasionally climbing up to 100, so there is always a lot of interest in swimming pools. I hope you find success in getting your pool straightened out. Good luck and God Bless!

Steve




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transition from pool man to vacum pool cleaner?!?!?

Q. we have an average in ground pool and currently have a pool man we want an automatic? vacum? cleaner that would clean the pool...the promblem is we dont know how much it generally costs and is it a long pricy transition?


Answer
I've seen several in action, personally I recommend the "Kreepy Krauly". It's a good, mid-priced ($400) pool cleaner that works off your pools pump. Keep in mind you will have to replace parts now and then so budget about $50+ yearly for that. Make sure your local pool supply shop carries parts for whatever model you decide on. You will need to brush the pool surface and perform some manual cleaning now and then but for the most part the cleaner will take care of everything. No difficult transition, 1. install cleaner, 2. fire pool guy. Here is a link comparing the major cleaners: http://www.poolcenter.com/cleaners_poolstor.htm

Which swimming pool is lower maintenance?




s_amisson


Is a vinyl or a gunite swimming pool lower in maintenance cost over time?


Answer
In terms of water balancing and sanitizing, the costs are comparable. Though you may need to purchase chemicals and an automatic pool cleaner that are safe for vinyl-lined pools if you choose that option, the cost differences are minimal.

You may run into higher maintenance costs if you select a gunite pool, simply because pool buyers often select this option because gunite is more customizable. If your swimming pool is of an out-of-the ordinary shape, you may spend more time and money on maintaining it. For example, a pool service provider might charge extra to clean it, or you might spend extra money on an automatic pool cleaner that can be customized to clean pools of unusual shapes. However, if you buy a cheap pool liner and/or you don't take care of it, a vinyl-lined pool can also be expensive because you'll need to replace the liner more often.

Most pool buyers make the decision of whether to invest in a gunite or vinyl-lined pool based on the desire for customization, durability needs, and budget considerations. Vinyl liners don't easily lend themselves to unusual pool shapes, though you can purchase custom pool liners. Gunite pools are more durable over the long term than vinyl-lined pools. However, gunite pools are considerably more expensive to install - especially if you opt for more customization - than vinyl pools.




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What is the best automatic inground pool cleaner? What brand and price?




Francaise


Its a vinyl inground pool. Rectangular 18x36. Also budget is an issue, I am looking at spending $500 or less.


Answer
After 25 years of hearing how great floor head systems are, I have come to a conclusion. If your pool would have stayed looking nice with any cleaning system in your pool, it will stay nice with a floor head system.
If you plan on owning a pool for 5-6 years, or longer, in my opinion the best cleaning system(Dollar for Dollar) is a Polaris 280 with a booster pump and a separate time clock. The reasons are as follows:
1.)Low cost of repairs. I have clients with Polaris 180âs that are 25 years old. (The 280 has the same drive system.) Total repair costs in 25 years are less than $300.00 total (Not counting bag replacements.) I Personally, have owned a Polaris 280 for almost 5 years and have not spent a dime. (other than on 2 bags, and one of them was torn by my kids, and the other by a big pine cone. )

2.)It will clean most pools spotless in 10-20 minutes per day. You have seen our (5) 40â plus Ponderosa pines that overhang our pool area. Not counting steps and love seat, if we keep the bag cleaned, the floor stays spotless.

3.)Initial installation costs should be in the $1400.00-1600.00 range. Floor head systems are usually about double the initial expense. Also, the motor for the cleaning system is usually a 2 H.P. or larger, and the pool needs to run for substantially greater times to even get close to what a Polaris will do in ½ hour or less. Also, if you are not the initial purchaser of the system, you will not get a lifetime warrantee. Replacement gear systems, floor heads, ⦠can average more than $200.00 per year after the first 2 year, not to mention if the cleaner is not working correctly, i.e. heads jammed in the up position, actuator gears jammed, ⦠you are running that large motor with absolutely no cleaning going on. Any way you look at it, running a ¾ H.P. booster motor for 20-30 minutes is going to be a lot cheaper than running a 2 H.P. for 3-4 hours. Add into this that most motors run for more than 2 hours per day seem to have a life span in the 5-6 year range, and that a 2 H.P. motor is about double the cost, I cannot see spending the money.

4.)Suction side cleaners have a lower initial cost, but are annoying because either they will not pick up sticks, twigs, small rocks, ⦠or they will, and then they will completely stop working until you spend 10 minutes pulling them out and cleaning the debris out of them. Some of these will end up needing replacement parts just because of punctured diaphragms, ⦠This is in addition to an average annual repair cost of about $200-250, after the first year or two. In less than 5 years(More likely 3 years), if you add in electricity savings, pool cleanliness and thus chemical costs savings, and electrical savings, you have more than paid for the Polaris. If you add to this the fact that, if you have a suction side cleaner, you will have had to bring it in to the shop at least 4-5 times, having a non-functional cleaning system, thus a horridly dirty pool at least 4-5 times, the fact that often it dies a slow death each time so your pool doesnât look right for months prior to each rebuilding, and the repeated hassles of needing to unplug the system when ever any ârealâ debris ends up in the pool, and I wonât have anything else in my pool, or my families pools. To summarize, If you are buying a cleaner and are selling the home quickly, I would probably go with a pool Vac(if there are no rocks, sticks, big leaves, ⦠In other words, dirt only, but your annual repair costs will be high) or a Kreepy Krauley if you have anything else(Or want 40% less repair costs than the Pool Vac).

5.)Floor heads, or suction cleaners destroy the natural water flow around the pool which is responsible for moving the debris around to the skimmer on the surface, and for moving silt, and dirt to the main drain. Therefore, the surface areas of both sides of the pool(If the cleaners are functioning properly) will be an average of 20-40% dirtier than the same pool with a pool vac, return lines properly adjusted, and approximately ¾ of the suction of the pool going to the main drain. Also, since almost all of the suction for a suction side cleaner is directed to the cleaner, and thatâs run through an extra 30 feet or so of corrugated hose, the water flow is greatly reduced, and to get the same water filtration you will need to run that system approximately 25% -30% longer than a system without a suction cleaner. Thatâs 1 ¾ hrs longer running a 1 H.P. motor than is needed to run the ¾ H.P booster. Also, as a suction cleaner picks up debris, assuming it doesnât get plugged up and stop functioning all together, the baskets will fill up and all the suction to the pool will decrease or stop. There are times during the year where about 60% of the repair work I do is related to suction cleaning systems picking up too much debris. Note: This is never covered under any warrantee.

There is more that I could add, but I am too tired to do so now. Installation is as follows:

which automatic pool cleaner is better, kreepy krauly or polaris?




mrh007


i need to buy an auotmatic pool cleaner. i've heard some bad things about the polaris and i'm thinking of going with the kreepy krauly instead. has anyone used these? which one will last longer and work better?


Answer
Two different animals. Kreepy is a suctiom side cleaner. Polaris is pressure side. Polaris makes a bunch of models. Choosing which one is best for you is a challenge in itself. (Polaris also makes a suction side unit, by the way.) Personally I much prefer Kreepy over Polaris. It is simpler. Has one moving part. Easier to repair. Average repair is much cheaper than Polaris. Frankly, when I had my pool store I finally quit selling Polaris products. I wasn't happy with the overall quality of the units. Every one I sold became more of a liability for the store. I'd opt for Kreepy if I were you.




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Does anyone have an above ground pool automatic vacuum they can recommend?




thereshego


I have a 12 ft. easy-set intex pool and the only problem i'm having is getting the small algae particals that settle to the floor up after I've used algaecide and clarifier. I just have one of those cheap $12 vacuums and all it does is shuffle the algae around again. Can anyone recommend one and tell me approximately how much it is?


Answer
I wouldn't be without a Polaris pool cleaner. It is by far the best and we've owned several different ones.

Question for Inground pool owners?




Dani


We are a family of 4 and wanting to buy a house with an inground pool. We have never owned a house with a pool before, so we are basically clueless as to what all it entails. I know we would use the pool a lot. So, we were wondering:

1. How much is upkeep (pool service, chemicals, etc.)
2. How much does it add to your house taxes
3. We live in Arizona, so would it be beneficial to have saltwater or chlorine
4. Anything else we need to consider / advice

Thanks in advance!!



Answer
1. I've found that upkeep costs differ from season to season; we'll spend far more on the pool during the swimming season than in the winter months. I have an in-ground gunite, and in the summer, ballpark cost figure I would guess would be $500 total. No pool service or hired cleaner; we do it all ourselves. Again, this is an estimate!!! It depends a lot on where you buy your supplies, how often you use your pool, etc.

2. I am not aware of any huge chunk it costs to our property taxes, if anything at all. Hell, our homeowner's insurance is only $8 a year more for our pool, and that's because we have a diving board.

3. I've heard some pretty great things about saltwater pools. Chlorine is derived from salt, so maintenance is supposed to be a lot easier and less time-consuming.

4. If you do get a pool, make sure you buy locks for all gates leading into your back yard, if they don't have any already. I use just a simple locker-combination lock on mine.

Pools can be time-consuming if you want them looking great day after day, so if you want a great looking pool but don't want to spend a lot of time on it, you should seriously reconsider. I don't consider cleaning mine a chore; I wanted a pool in my house so I consider myself responsible for it's care. It is a hobby for me, as swimming is my favorite sport.

Essential cleaning supplies: a brush, a vacuum (manual or automatic; automatic will wash hours of cleaning time off your hands), a hose that covers the length and depth of the pool, a skimmer pole, skimmer net; I have one flat one and one that's a basket, a chemical test kit to see how the chemcial levels in your water are, and a "backflow" garden hose attachment for possible clogs in your underground pipes. Depending on your pump system too, you might also require a backwash hose. Also keep in good supply of chlorine tabs (big duh, right?!), pH add and/or decrease, alkalinity plus, some filter aid (sand or DE, again depending on what kind of filter you have) and some bags of shock, just for extra measure. I don't do this myself, but I know some pool owners also keep algaecide handy, even though you only need to use that for an algae outbreak in your water. But that should only happen if you don't take care of it! And I tell you all of this because if you have to buy all that stuff at once, it will get VERY expensive. We specifically looked for a pool that already had all the equipment there; we just had to buy the chemicals and even then, the water was already in pretty good shape so we didn't have to buy every single chemical all at once.

I hope I didn't ramble on too much. But I enjoy my swimming pool immensely and enjoy entertaining my friends and family with it. It's a wonderful investment, as long as you don't consider taking care of it a problem. Happy swimming!




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