Sabtu, 27 Juli 2013

Is high school diving safe??? How can I keep from hitting the bottom?

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Greg


Hi, I am 16 years old, and I just went to my first High School diving practice tonight. I am a little worried about the safety of it though, because when doing a pike save (rolling inward under water so as to not hurt your back), I sometimes stop moving like 2.5-3ft from the bottom of the pool, and I can't stop wondering, what if I pike too late? Will i hit my head/ back and become paralyzed or injured?

What do you think about this and the safety of diving, especially for someone just starting that has no history of gymnastics or anything?



Answer
The purpose of the pike save is not to protect the back, it's to 'save' (i.e. clean up) a poor (non-vertical) entry, so you don't get marked down so much by the judges. It helps to minimise the amount of splash you produce, and also reduces the 'sting' from slight over-rotation. A side effect is that you don't go as deep as you would if you held the vertical entry position. If that's the first thing they're teaching you, I would suggest either that your school diving pit is too shallow (unlikely, since these things are subject to federal/ international standards), or that your school is terrified of lawsuits of any description (very likely, given that you're--presumably--in the US).

I have dived in multiple pools in the UK, and the minimum depth under a 3 m springboard was always ~3.5 m (11 ft) or more. This was more than sufficient that, even on a clean vertical entry, though I might touch bottom, I would never hit it hard enough to hurt. Anyway, you hit the water with your hands locked above your head, thus it's your hands which would strike the bottom first, and you can then cushion the impact with your arms. The risk of paralysis is minimal, so don't worry about it. Even if you leave the roll a little late, as soon as you start to roll, you will instantly slow/ stop your descent. Just keep your hands overhead until after you start the roll.

Diving's a relatively safe sport, though, certainly compared to e.g. football. The most common injury is the sting from a bad entry, which admittedly hurts like a b***h for a couple of minutes, but does little if any lasting damage--except to your confidence, if you let it. The worst thing is probably hitting the board during the flight, but that only happens if you get the takeoff completely wrong, and THEN try to perform your dive anyway. Better to just abort the movement, and try again (although doing so in competition will earn you an automatic 'failed dive').

Obsessive or Compulsive blinking?




Cannibalis


When I was about five I was diagnosed with Obsessive Compulsive Disorder. I had been obsessively washing my hands to the point that they cracked and bled constantly. The pain didn't bother me as long as I was clean of germs. I was also deathly afraid of becoming sick.
Recently I've been diagnosed with Depression, Anxiety/Panic Disorder, and Social Anxiety Disorder.
I'm 16 now and I haven't really noticed a lot of big OCD quirks in years, except sometimes I'll get a sudden panic attack if I notice my room is a mess or my shelf is messy. I also am an obsessive hygienic and always have to take a shower before I go anywhere. I am overly conscious of how I smell, and I'm overly conscious of how my breath smells.

Anyway when I was little, I don't know the age but maybe somewhere around 8, I started paying extra attention to my blinking. My siblings made fun of me and called it the "Squint Blink" or "Squint Blinking" because I would blink really hard to where my eyebrows went down and my eyelids squished together. It became pretty much automatic and I found it nearly impossible to quit. I was eventually able to stop, but then it developed again when I was around 10 or 11. Maybe 12. And I was eventually able to stop myself again, though it was extremely difficult.
The thing is, though I was able to stop, sometimes I will start thinking about it -like right now- and I get the overwhelming urge to do it again. It's SO hard to keep myself from doing it. I get this feeling in my eyes like I really need to. That urge can go on for hours or even days.
Up until now I thought I was the only one who had that problem, but I started researching and discovered other people have that problem too.
My question is, does it have to do with OCD or one of my other problems, or could it be a Blinking Tic or something??



Answer
I have been diagnosed with depression and OCD, and have struggled with social anxiety. I used to have the repetitive behaviors referred to as "tics", so I feel my input may be of some value:

I believe that any disturbances within any person, no matter what the origin or manifestation (physical, emotional), MUST come out in some shape or form, sort of like certain laws of nature. Just as a pool of water will always ripple when a pebble is cast in, so will a person ripple when something is not right.

I think its very possible that your facial "tics", the blinking of the eyes, is a way for you to release "tension" of some kind, and by tension, I mean any kind of disturbance, although one that I think is more psychological in origin. I would also submit that its possible that your other compulsive behaviors, the excessive attention to hygeine and preoccupation with the order of your home, are along the same vein.

Another possibility is that these compulsive behaviors offer a distraction from something(s) you would rather not deal with.

Every human being encounters all kinds of stress in their lives (unless one is unable to experience stress; there are purported cases). What matters is how we are able to handle that stress. Will we be able to take what comes in stride and push onward, or will we shatter like a vase dropped from a table?

We all have different manifestations of coping behavior. Its possible that your facial tics and other obsessive compulsive behavior is your coping skill, albiet a difficult one.

As far as psychiatric jargon goes, Obsessive-Compulsive Disorder is defined by disturbing, intrusive thoughts and repetitive compulsive behaviors ultimately resulting from these thoughts. Do you experience intrusive thoughts, thoughts that may "pop" into your head seemingly out of nowhere? If so, are these thoughts difficult to get rid of, even if they make little sense?

If you want, shoot me an email at [ vonisringhausen@yahoo.com ] to communicate further.




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With the power behind kitchenaid mixer motors, why do you think they do not turn off when the head is tilted?

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John


I just tried to remove an attachment from a Kitchen Aid mixer and, not realizing what button/knob to push to loosen the attachment, turned it on with my hand on it. It yanked my hand pretty good and luckily damage was not worse but the whole incident makes me question...

The motor inside the mixer is (and needs to be) very powerful. Why on earth hasn't Kitchen Maid added a safety switch to the tilt head so that the mixer cannot be powered when the head is tilted up? Is there some need to have the motor on with the head tilted? I've seen plenty of power tools with far less power which have far more safety designed into the product.
While I appreciate Tom's answer below, there are a few things I take issue with.

1. Virtually every engineer, executive, secretary or janitor working for Kitchen Aid knows the following:

a. Most owners of the mixer will NOT unplug the unit each and every time attachments are changed.

b. All members of a household in which a mixer is present will not have read the entire operating manual.

c. People often make mistakes for a large variety of reasons.

and....

2. Error-proofing the mixer such that the motor cannot run when attachments are being changes is entirely possible.

After working extensively with both American and Asian automakers, one of many cultural difference I've noticed is what Tom stated. The Asians do not look at error-proofing and think "it can't be done," they look at it and think "it can be done, and if it is already being done, it can be done better."

Anyway, I digress. From reading this I think the answers to my question
I also find it amusing that electric mixers are a top contender when I search for "most dangerous kitchen appliances." Maybe it simply is because engineers cannot and will not make them safer.



Answer
It's impossible to idiot proof everything. Why would you work on any power equipment with power still applied? Especially since the operating manual specifically says never to do that.
You have a large brain that should be sufficient to protect you from this sort of mishap.
You're essentially asking how to protect you from yourself. Can't be done.

It's not a defect... you ignored the instructions. It's like crawling under a car when all that's holding it up is the jack and you didn't place jack stands like you're supposed to. Ignore the common sense part and no one can or will protect you.

BTW, what power tool with far less power has more safety designed into it? Hand drills are very powerful but there is nothing to keep them from energizing while changing bits. Same with my drill press. Nothing to keep it from starting while I have a chuck key inserted.
Can't get any safer than disconnecting power... like you were instructed to.

Direct from Kitchenaid:
"When using electrical appliances, basic safety precautions should always be
followed including the following:
1. Read all instructions.
2. To protect against risk of electrical shock, do not put mixer in water or other
liquid.
3. Close supervision is necessary when any appliance is used near children.
4. Unplug from outlet when not in use, before putting on or taking off parts, and
before cleaning."

EDIT:
So what I am noticing is that you speak in generalities. You still haven't named that power tool with far more safety build into it, that you mentioned.
As far as pulling the Asian vs. American mentality card, that's a crock. Easy to say, but you can't support the statement other than with your own anecdotal statement. Nonetheless, this is NOT AN ENGINEERING problem or issue. An interlock would be easy. So would unplugging the machine before you monkey with it, but you didn't do that. The latter is less expensive and more practical.
Guess what would happen if there were an interlock and it failed? You'd be wanting to sue. I'm not so sure you're not intimating that already with this supposed "design defect".
Learn your lesson already... keep your finger out of the light socket. (there's no interlock there, either)

Your statements about what "most owners" will or will not do are also unfounded and unsubstantiated. You made that up, too.
If you can't/don't follow instructions then THAT'S YOUR FAULT. Period.

I'm sick and tired of this mentality. Space heaters burn down homes all the time. So do matches. Or is is people using space heaters and matches that burn things down?
A car can be put into forward gear and the throttle stepped on even if when there's a store front full of people in front of you. GASP! Why aren't engineers doing something about that?? Surely the Asians have noticed this looming danger and are all over it!

The MOST dangerous thing in your kitchen is YOU. The fact that you and most of your friends (not most people) choose to ignore instructions, warnings, and cautions actually gives me hope for humanity as some of those genes will soon be removed from the pool.

Maybe all applicances should also have GFI built INTO them in case some idiot who wants to make toast next to his hot tub plugs it into an extension cord that's not on a GFI circuit?
Maybe toasters should have automatic doors on them to keep people from sticking butter knives into them while they're plugged in?
You getting the point yet? Probably not.

The bottom line, that you don't like and won't accept, is that there is NO TREND of people being injured by their stand mixers. The mixers that are the most dangerous are the hand and wand mixers with high-speed exposed blades. (you failed to research that before you listed "electric mixers" as a dangerous kitchen appliance) Perhaps that's the part that amused you.

Get a grip and stop blaming everyone for not protecting you from yourself. It can't be done and should not be done.
You couldn't figure out which button to press so you fumbled with it plugged in. Not good.... and contrary to what you were told not to do.

Here's another: Don't drive on the left side of the road in the US. It's not safe. There is nothing to stop you from doing this, even though the car has a lot of power. Just don't do it.

swimming pool?




mike


i have an indoor swimming pool in my house and its plain white with but i want to paint it...does anybody know with what kind of paint should i paint it and how long should i let it dry before i could refill it again


Answer
One of the most common pool surfaces is paint. Pool paint comes in many different colors, and is an inexpensive coating compared to other surfaces. There are three types of pool paint. Epoxy paint, for new construction, and pools painted previously with epoxy paint. It is long lasting, durable and will stand up to UV rays, automatic pool cleaners and chemical treatments. Epoxy paint will last about 7 - 10 years.

Another type of pool paint is chlorinated rubber base. Rubber base is not as durable or expensive as epoxy paint, but is a dependable, easy to use, inexpensive pool paint. It is easy to apply, comes in many colors and will last about 3 - 5 years.

Last but not least, is water based acrylic pool paint. This paint can be used on any type of surface, is easy to apply, and cleans up with water. This type of pool paint is ideal for commercial applications that are repainted on a regular basis. It should last about 2 - 3 years.

Whatever paint you use, it is important to follow manufactureâs instructions, follow recommended safety guidelines and make sure you prepare the pool properly. Preparation is the most important step in pool painting. Without the proper preparation the paint will not bond with the wall or existing surface.




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Jumat, 26 Juli 2013

automatic pool cleaners.?

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peggyplays


I need to know which pool cleaner is the best. There are so many different kinds. Barracuda G3, Zodiac G4, Hayward ultra pool vacumn, Kreepy Krauly, I just want to know which is the best, for a good price


Answer
barracuda
also they come out with a thing called a floatron that eliminates need for chemicals by putting electrons in the water it is solar powered and lifetime warranty
it works great i bought one 2 years ago and never bought chemicals again ( about 300 dollars but it pays for itself)

Above ground pool vac.?




Karen M


I have been looking at automatic above ground pool vacuums and i was wondering what one you would say to be the best. I have seen the Zodiac Baracuda Zoom and Ranger and they seem like good machines but i havent been able to find any reviews on either of them and for that hefty a price i would like to know what i am really getting. Any help is greatly appreciated.


Answer
My mom's colleague has a Baracuda Zoom and she said its the best thing she ever bought...she just lets it go and wah-lah, your pool is CLEAN!!! I would recomend it to you.




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Kamis, 25 Juli 2013

Swimming pool regulator valves?

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Patrick


I recently got a new automatic pool cleaner for my pool and it came with a few extras like a bunch of new hoses and a regulator valve that you connect to the the weir. What I'd like to know is whether these regulator valves actually do anything besides tell you how strong the suction is from your pool pump, and if so, what else do they do?


Answer
Depending on the model you purchased, the extra equipment will have a different function. You should include all the relative information like make and model and double-check the instruct manuals.

my automatic pool cleaner is not working?




Justice


what should i do ro check out to see wny my automatic pool cleaner(polaris turtle) is not working?


Answer
I cannot find the website for polaris, seems they were sold not too long ago. I could be wrong on that.

If your turtle plugs into the skimmer or fitting in the water and there is not a separate pump to operate it, likely the turtle is a suction side automatic cleaner.

Suction side automatic cleaners all have something in common and that is when your filter is getting dirty the amount of water going through your cleaner and filter is way down. Inside your cleaner is a water paddle wheel that makes the turtle go.

Check your turtle to see if the passage ways are clean and clear and the hose is also, then clean out your filter. A clean filter should develop about 16-20psi when clean. When dirty and needing cleaning the pressure is about 26-30 or a 10 psi gain. Best to clean before 10 psi but surely by 10 psi.

You're welcome!!




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Rabu, 24 Juli 2013

What is the best automatic pool cleaner (sweeper)?

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Terry N


I have an inground pool and hate to vacuum the pool. What is the best one out there?


Answer
The absolute best would be a booster pump powered Polaris, any model. If your budget doesn't allow spending 1800 bucks then my vote is for both the Kreepy Krauly and the Hayward Navigator. Both have their strengths and weaknesses and a lot will depend if this is a concrete or vinyl pool. Kreepy's have a tendency to plow through just about anything, but they also tend to get stuck on many pool shapes unless you purchase the optional back up device for them. The Navigators don't tend to get stuck, but they are also not as adept at climbing walls or powering through heavy debris.

How much does an average inground swimming pool cost?







My family and I really want an inground pool, but we are looking to save money. I need a nice pool but at a great price.


Answer
Inground pools are quite a bit more expensive that above ground. I paid about $35k for mine about 10 years ago. But that's including all the associated costs involved ( concrete around the pool, lights around the pool, a small shed to house the pump, sand filter, and pool accessories, the wiring for everything, the building permits, and inspections, retractable pool cover, automatic pool cleaner, and other pool-related bits. I highly recommend *not* trying to contract out each part of the job, it's a headache, as certain people need to do their jobs at certain times during the construction, and alot of the time one company's ability to do their part of the job will be completely dependent upon when another company does their part of the job. If there's a single problem or hold up by one outfit the whole project is affected. I made that mistake, and if I had to do it again, I'd much rather pay the extra $1500 to have one company perform the entire job.

No way in hell you're getting a quality inground pool for $2000-$5000 though. Reaslistically, $15k-$20k will likely be about as low as you can expect.




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Selasa, 23 Juli 2013

Anyone know an easy way to get wrinkles from the bottom of a pool liner (above ground) after water is in?

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Troy


Just put up a new above ground pool and the installers left some pretty big wrinkles in the bottom of the liner. Since there's already water in it, how can this be fixed without emptying it completely?


Answer
If it was an inch of water or so, you can push the wrinkles out towards the wall but if there's more water than that in there, sorry, ain't gonna happen. Normally during an installation , there's some one in the pool scouting out wrinkles as the pool fills and the liner vac is going (they did use a vacuum to suck the air out behind the liner to remove the wrinkles, right?). That way you can catch them and push them out before you get to the point where there's an inch of water.
Sometimes you'll see small wrinkles that are actually what we call packing creases. The liner has been in a box , folded for some time. It will get creases. Most are minor and will work themselves out if they are rounded at the top. If they are sharp ridged, they need help. Normally during the fill stage, with the liner vac going and only half an inch of water in the pool, you can get these stubborn packing creases out with a kettle of boiling water poured on the area. That usually works to make the vinyl pliable enough that the weight of the water will push out the wrinkle, if there's not much of a ridge.

Your choices here are two.
If they're minor, you may choose to live with them. They won't be going away though and if you use an automatic cleaner, the cleaner head may eventually wear through the ridge of the crease, causing a leak.
If they are large or have a sharp ridge, I'd be getting the installers back to drain and kick the wrinkles out very soon.

Are there online instructions for swimming pool maintenance?




caroll





Answer
I use an Aqualux system. For the last three years I have done nothing but keep the pH level balanced. Very easy.

http://users.iafrica.com/a/am/amos/aqualux.htm

(From the site)
Finally a few tips for effective pool care:

Dust, leaves and debris blown in by the wind quickly spoil the look of a pool, while the suntan oils, make-up, sweat from the constant use of swimmers escaping the heat, also mar the purity of the water.

Firstly, clean all the leaves and debris out of the leaf traps both in the weir and the sludge trap, because if water cannot flow to the filter, it cannot be filtered.

Do a good backwash. To get the filter reasonably clean one must backwash for at least 3 minutes followed by a 1 minute rinse. If backwash was not done for a couple of weeks, repeat this process twice.

The next step is to carry out the necessary water tests and correct pH if necessary. It is important to remember that correctly balanced water creates an unfavourable environment for bacteria to grow in.

Next, water level. The water level of the pool should be checked regularly. Dirt and leaves will not skim off into the weir if the level is not correct. If the water level sinks more rapidly than experienced with normal evaporation the pool floor and walls should be checked for cracks.

If an automatic pool cleaner is used it should not run continuously. It is just a water vacuum cleaner and therefore should only be used when the floor and the walls of the pool are dirty. The top 25cm (approx. 10 inches) of water is the area where bacteria flourishes and this water will not be filtered if the
cleaner is continuously in use.

Leaves and debris, not skimmed automatically because the pool cleaner is in constant use, become waterlogged and drop to the floor of the pool. Most pool cleaners have a pulverising action and when the debris is sucked up it becomes a sludge which dirties the filter sand much more quickly.

It is essential to run the filter for at least eight hours every day.

With an automatic pool cleaner this should be increased to twelve hours because of the restricted water flow through the pool cleaner and hoses.




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My pool vacuum wont work?

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sarah


i have an above ground pool and i recently bought an automatic pool cleaner from craigslist, so it didnt come with a manual. i dont think that it is working properly because i left it in for about 2hrs and it picked up a little bit but not everything. whenever it goes over an area with bugs around it, it doesnt pick it up it just makes the debris float around the pool. this is the model i have:http://www.epinions.com/reviews/Robo_Kleen_Robotic_Pool_Cleaner_RK01_A
somebody pleasee help!! thanks=]



Answer
Robo Kleen pool cleaners are designed for above ground pools so that is not going to be the problem. Go to the website below, find your model, and when you click on it, you should see an online version of the owners manual. That should help you out.

Are you a pool cleaner? Please help me pick a Kreepy Krauly...?




MagPookie


Should I get the Kreepy Krauly Classic or Kruiser model? The classic seems more popular although the kruiser supposedly works better. There's good and bad reviews for both and I just can't decide.

I have an irregular shaped fiberglass coated in-ground pool. My current one just died and it never could get in the corners or the stairs. Any info you can provide is appreciated. Thanks.



Answer
Both Kreepy Krauly models are very good automatic pool cleaners. I think that the classic is a better option, but either will work great.




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Senin, 22 Juli 2013

Planning on having a pool built in back yard?

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russrimm


So I'm finally going to do it. I have wanted an in-ground gunite pool all my life. I had a couple of builders out to measure and due to utility easements and sewer lines, etc, I can only get about a 10' x 30', not sure how big that is really, still have to 'map it out' in the yard. So my questions are - what options should I get? Is the colored luminescent light worth it? I'm thinking of getting the salt-water chlorination system as well. What about 250,000 BTU vs 400,000 BTU for the hottub? Any kind of 'arc fountain' type things? What's worth it and what's not? Is Jandy or Hayward better for pump/filter/automatic pool vacuum? Would it be worth it for me to pay an extra $500+ to have my sewer line re-directed?
P.S. I'm in Houston, TX



Answer
It sounds like money isn't that impotent to you so go for your dreams.

I like the fiber optic lights they are very nice. Save your money on the heater & go with the cheaper one, onece it is heated eather will maintain it at that size. Most people don't buy a heater at all & the ones that do most of them dont run them because it cost to much & thay don't use the pool enough to make it worth while. The sewer I would think thay would rerout it for free if you suply the pipe & cupplers to be able to sell you a bigger pool(it wouldn't hurt to ask since thay have to dig it up to start with or just have them dig it up & you lay the pipe). Go with the best filter he sells that you are willing to pay up frount for it will save you in chems & services in the long run. I would also like to add if you have seen the frogs & turtles that hook to the jet & swim around & clean your pool you should get one(This is the auto pool vac). These seem very expencive for what they are but most people don't have the time or disaplin to clean there pool & this will help alot. You know with that green look or the dirt on the bottum that you keep saying you will take care of tomarrow. One last thing get a very good pool cover. This is the most inportent part aside from the water & just after chems.

Have fun & good luck.

Simple directions for closing a pool for winter.?




luteachris


Please can I use the automatic cleaner for the leafs? There are not alot of them in their however it is already too cold to go in to get them. It does get very cold here. Also can I put a plate on the skimmer instead of draining below this. I have to buy water and don't want to waste if I don't have to.
Sorry the pool is new this year. It is an above ground 24 ft round.



Answer
Saving the water is wise. To remove the leaves Wal Mart or any pool place has a hand net type skimmer. Remove any mechanical skimmers and pumps drain the water from them so it does not freeze in them. Drain the water level down 4 to 6 inches from the swimming level. Put cover on the pool if you have an old auto tire inner tube fill with air and float it in the center of the pool and then put the pool cover on to keep the cover from sinking into the pool water when it rains or snows and from the weight of leaves on the pool cover. Thats basicly it untill spring and you need to begin the filters again to clean and shock the poool to swim in.




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Minggu, 21 Juli 2013

Asking price for a 27 foot above ground swimming pool?

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Dain K


I have a 27 foot above ground swimming pool (3 years old) that I am trying to sell. It is in very good condition with a pump/filter, solar and winter covers, and accessories such stairs and automatic cleaner. The liner is fine now, but it may need to be replaced when torn down, but no idea. Is $1500 too much to ask? $1000? $500? I'm clueless on this.


Answer
Dain, i already answered your question on this with your other question when you referred to your pool as a 24 foot Round pool.

I gave it a second thought after posting, and seeing this message, IF you want to sell your pool, or get rid of it, you might want to post an ad for used pool equipment. A Pump/motor usually goes for 3-400 bucks, and the filter could be a few hundred more, but the equipment is used, so if you get someone to buy it for 500 dollars you should consider yourself lucky. Place an add for the equipment, and as a bonus they can have the pool for free. you might get a taker, But refer to my other message where i talked about liability. You don't want to be held responsible when the pool leaves your yard, so should something happen in 2 weeks, whether it is faultyequipment or improper installation, just make sure you dont get caught up in it.

It makes no sense to try and make a few bucks back on your pool that is 3 years old, and then by some string of bad luck, have someone come knocking on your door looking for damages because the ladder or steps failed and someone got injured. Sure it could be from the new owner installing equipment improperly, and you have no control over it, But is it really worth the hassle? Sell your used equipment, people will buy it. Especially now where people are going to have equipment failures and problems from the past winter, and dismantle your pool and put it on the side of the road, i guarantee someone will load it and take it away, even if there is no equipment.

How do you get rid of efflorescence on Pavers/Stones?




CuriousJor


My steps were built using Rinox pavers and I've got alot of efflorescence on them. The contractor told me that this was a normal process from the concrete curing process and that it goes away after a short while. It's almost 3 years later and It's still there. Does anyone know if this is going to go away or how to treat it. I find it so unattractive everytime I look at it.

Thanks



Answer
Cleaning and Sealing Paving Stones

STONESAVER® premium concrete surface cleaners, water repellent and sealers have been formulated to provide the best cleaning, preparation and sealing system on the market. Originally developed for the commercial paving surface industry, STONESAVER® products have been put to the test by many satisfied professionals for years before finally being offered to the retail public.



Rust Remover.

Removes stubborn rust stains from paving stones and concrete.


Citrus Oil Degreaser

Uses a unique blend of citrus extracts to removes oil and grease stains from paving stones and concrete.


Stripper

Removes paint, graffiti, rubber, tar and chewing gum from paving stones and concrete.


Cleaner and Surface Prep

Essential pre-sealing surface preparation ensures vibrant colour and proper sealer to surface bonding.
Removes efflorescence, dirt and tire marks from paving stones and concrete.
Complete with E-Z Spray auto mixing hose adaptor.


Paving Stone Sealer

Protects paving stones against salt, oil, rust, acid rain, UV colour fading and pool chemicals.
Premium formulation, high acrylic solids.
Colour enhancing wet look.
Will not peel, wears evenly.
Comes in 3.78L and 18L containersâ 1L covers 30 to 40 square feet.


How Long to Wait Until Sealing



Sealing should be done only after the natural efflorescence process has been given time to take place. Efflorescence, being a whitish powder, is the deposit of small quantities of cement from within the pavers on its top surface after a series of wetting (rainfall) and drying (warm weather) cycles. Because a series of wet/dry cycles are required, which are weather dependant, there is no exact time frame which applies to every situation. However, allowing 8 weeks, with a minimum of 4 precipitation events during that time, is a common rule of thumb.



Stain Removal

Between installation and sealing, some pavers may become stained due to foot and vehicle trafficâ this is common. However, it is important to remove these stains prior to sealing or else their appearance through sealing may become enhanced.



The first step is to inspect for any extremely stained, cracked or broken units which should be replaced. All items which cast shadows on the area (e.g. furniture) should be removed, if possible, to allow the area to dry evenly once stain removal and cleaning is completed. Similarly, automatic sprinkler systems should be turned off during cleaning and sealing operations.



Prior to using any of these products, refer to the respective productsâ

labels for personal protection, installation and first aid suggestions.



Start stain removal at the bottom of the pavement and work up the slope in manageable sections. This prevents untreated areas from becoming wet, which can hide some stains.



Rust Remover- Pre-wet the stained area with water. Apply a liberal amount of the stain remover to the stained area only and let stand for two minutes. Vigorously scrub the stain with a stiff bristle scrub brush and rinse immediately with generous amounts of water. Repeat if necessary.



Citrus Oil Degreaserâ Pre-wet the stained area with water. Apply a liberal amount of stain remover to the stained area and let stand for one minute. Vigorously scrub the stain with a stiff bristle scrub brush and rinse away cleaner and residue thoroughly with water (strong water pressure works best). Stains that have deeply penetrated into the pavers may resurface after initial cleaning and dryingâ repeat stain removal process if necessary.



Stripperâ Remove excess material with a scraper. Apply sufficient Stripper to cover the remaining stain. Allow product to stand for approximately 5 minutes. Do not let product dry on surface. Scrub stained area with a stiff bristle brush. Rinse thoroughly with water (strong water pressure works best). Repeat if necessary.



When all stains are removed, rinse the entire area down to ensure any residuals are washed away.



Cleaning Process



Once the stains are removed, the entire area should be thoroughly cleaned to remove any efflorescence and dirt. Note: Because of the effectiveness of the Surface Cleaner, spot cleaning will be noticeable in the final product; therefore, it is recommended that the entire area be cleaned.



Prior to starting each application, lightly pre-wet the area with water, as well as any vegetated areas that may be subject to overspray and/or runoff. As a precaution, delicate vegetation can be pulled back or covered to protect from overspray.



Concrete Cleaner- Simply attach your water hose to the inlet port of the E-Z sprayer and you are ready to start. Working quickly, start at the lowest point of your surface and work in 27 square metre (300 square feet) pre measured sections. Work side to side, making sure the entire surface is covered. If there is still cleaner remaining in the bottle after the section is done, apply the remaining cleaner as an additional spray over the same areaâ this will reinforce the cleaning application and prevent drying of the surface. Use a long handled stiff bristled broom to brush the treated area, loosening stubborn dirt and deposits. Rinse thoroughly (usually 5-6 rinses with a pressure sprayer until foaming is no longer visible. However, care should be taken to not blow or wash the sand from the jointsâ sand will remain in the joints if a wide spray nozzle is used and the angle of the spray is kept from directly penetrating the joints. Be sure to rinse all cleaner from the surface as you progress to additional sections until the entire surface is cleaned and thoroughly rinsed. Do not let the cleaner dry on surface or stand in low spots as this may stain the pavers; mist surface with water if it begins to dry.



When the entire surface is cleaned and well rinsed, allow to dry and inspect. Repeat application to the white (efflorescence) areas if necessary.



For vegetated areas that were subject to overspray or runoff, dilute the areas one last time with large quantities of clean water.



Sealing

Allow at least 24 hours without moisture or surface dampness before sealing. If the pavers and jointing sand are not totally dry (not just surface dry), moisture blushing may occur under the sealer after it is applied, or the sealer may become cloudy/white.



Never re-sand paving joints between cleaning and sealing applications as this will leave residue on the surface of the pavers.



Paving Stone Sealerâ For best results, use a lint free high pile roller and a metal paint tray, or airless sprayer, to apply the sealer. Apply at a temperature above 7 Degrees C (45 Degrees F). Apply sufficient sealer to fully saturate the surface and penetrate at least 15 mm (5/8â) into the jointing sand. Excess sealer on the surface should be pushed to an unsealed area with a rubber squeegee, which are effective in achieving good penetration but avoid bringing jointing sand to the surface of the pavers.



For surfaces being sealed for the first time, apply a second coat by rolling in a cross direction from the first coat. Allow one hour to dry between applications. Allow sealed surfaces to dry for 24 hours before using.




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How do I keep my automatic pool cleaner from getting caught on the steps?

automatic pool cleaner use on robotic pool cleaners are the next generation of pool cleaners and are ...
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Matthew


we have an in ground pool with a kreepy krauly automatic cleaner. It works great, but it is continually getting caught at the corner of the steps. How can I keep this from happening? does it have something to do with the weights? The type of Kreepy that we have is the Pentair K70406 Kreepy Krauly Classic Inground Automatic Suction Pool cleaner.
Thanks



Answer
the weight probably pulls it down

What automatic pool vacuum works the best?




bigredgevo


I want to buy an automatic pool cleaner and researched many. I came to a conclusion to either get a Polaris or Hayward. I saw many Haywards for sale on eBay and they complained that it gets stuck because of the shape of their pool. So now I am looking to get a Polaris 280. Can anyone explain the difference between Polaris 280, 360, 380, and basically all the numbers? I just need a pool vacuum that will do the job without me having to interfere with it.


Answer
Above ground pool or in-ground pool.
If it is an above ground pool, go for the Hayward BUG.
In-ground pool cleaners, I would have to say Hayward or Kreepy .
The fewer working parts the better.
All of these robots can get stuck, in some pools.




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Is it too late to begin the treatment process for my above ground pool?

best automatic pool cleaner above ground on Above-Ground Automatic Pool Cleaner | Buy Automatic Pool Cleaners ...
best automatic pool cleaner above ground image



Chet


About a month ago my roommate bought and filled up an above ground pool. We have yet to begin the treatment process, and the pool just recently turned green. It is clear that the pool is very dirty and most likely filled with insects.

Is it too late for the water to be treated effectively and safely? Do we need to refill the pool with clean water?

Thanks!



Answer
It is most likely caused by green algae and you would need to treat it asap! I cant see it so I don't know for sure how bad it is. Just Balance water and regulate pH. Check/clean filter system. And Adjust valve for optimum circulation and allow to run 24 hours a day until pool is clear. Automatic cleaners can help, backwash if necessary. If the prior steps did not kill the green algae, shock the pool intensely. Good luck and have fun swimming this summer!

what is the best above ground automatic pool cleaner?




chris j


now i have a barracuda zippy. it worked ok for a while and now its just dead. i need one that get the leaves and minor debris off the bottom of the pool. automatic just put it in and let it run lol.
will the bug actually pick up leaves and stuff as small as dirt?



Answer
I've had the Aqua Bug for 2 years & I love it.
www.uspoolsupply.com




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