Sabtu, 03 Mei 2014

What is the best automatic inground pool cleaner? What brand and price?




Francaise


Its a vinyl inground pool. Rectangular 18x36. Also budget is an issue, I am looking at spending $500 or less.


Answer
After 25 years of hearing how great floor head systems are, I have come to a conclusion. If your pool would have stayed looking nice with any cleaning system in your pool, it will stay nice with a floor head system.
If you plan on owning a pool for 5-6 years, or longer, in my opinion the best cleaning system(Dollar for Dollar) is a Polaris 280 with a booster pump and a separate time clock. The reasons are as follows:
1.)Low cost of repairs. I have clients with Polaris 180âs that are 25 years old. (The 280 has the same drive system.) Total repair costs in 25 years are less than $300.00 total (Not counting bag replacements.) I Personally, have owned a Polaris 280 for almost 5 years and have not spent a dime. (other than on 2 bags, and one of them was torn by my kids, and the other by a big pine cone. )

2.)It will clean most pools spotless in 10-20 minutes per day. You have seen our (5) 40â plus Ponderosa pines that overhang our pool area. Not counting steps and love seat, if we keep the bag cleaned, the floor stays spotless.

3.)Initial installation costs should be in the $1400.00-1600.00 range. Floor head systems are usually about double the initial expense. Also, the motor for the cleaning system is usually a 2 H.P. or larger, and the pool needs to run for substantially greater times to even get close to what a Polaris will do in ½ hour or less. Also, if you are not the initial purchaser of the system, you will not get a lifetime warrantee. Replacement gear systems, floor heads, ⦠can average more than $200.00 per year after the first 2 year, not to mention if the cleaner is not working correctly, i.e. heads jammed in the up position, actuator gears jammed, ⦠you are running that large motor with absolutely no cleaning going on. Any way you look at it, running a ¾ H.P. booster motor for 20-30 minutes is going to be a lot cheaper than running a 2 H.P. for 3-4 hours. Add into this that most motors run for more than 2 hours per day seem to have a life span in the 5-6 year range, and that a 2 H.P. motor is about double the cost, I cannot see spending the money.

4.)Suction side cleaners have a lower initial cost, but are annoying because either they will not pick up sticks, twigs, small rocks, ⦠or they will, and then they will completely stop working until you spend 10 minutes pulling them out and cleaning the debris out of them. Some of these will end up needing replacement parts just because of punctured diaphragms, ⦠This is in addition to an average annual repair cost of about $200-250, after the first year or two. In less than 5 years(More likely 3 years), if you add in electricity savings, pool cleanliness and thus chemical costs savings, and electrical savings, you have more than paid for the Polaris. If you add to this the fact that, if you have a suction side cleaner, you will have had to bring it in to the shop at least 4-5 times, having a non-functional cleaning system, thus a horridly dirty pool at least 4-5 times, the fact that often it dies a slow death each time so your pool doesnât look right for months prior to each rebuilding, and the repeated hassles of needing to unplug the system when ever any ârealâ debris ends up in the pool, and I wonât have anything else in my pool, or my families pools. To summarize, If you are buying a cleaner and are selling the home quickly, I would probably go with a pool Vac(if there are no rocks, sticks, big leaves, ⦠In other words, dirt only, but your annual repair costs will be high) or a Kreepy Krauley if you have anything else(Or want 40% less repair costs than the Pool Vac).

5.)Floor heads, or suction cleaners destroy the natural water flow around the pool which is responsible for moving the debris around to the skimmer on the surface, and for moving silt, and dirt to the main drain. Therefore, the surface areas of both sides of the pool(If the cleaners are functioning properly) will be an average of 20-40% dirtier than the same pool with a pool vac, return lines properly adjusted, and approximately ¾ of the suction of the pool going to the main drain. Also, since almost all of the suction for a suction side cleaner is directed to the cleaner, and thatâs run through an extra 30 feet or so of corrugated hose, the water flow is greatly reduced, and to get the same water filtration you will need to run that system approximately 25% -30% longer than a system without a suction cleaner. Thatâs 1 ¾ hrs longer running a 1 H.P. motor than is needed to run the ¾ H.P booster. Also, as a suction cleaner picks up debris, assuming it doesnât get plugged up and stop functioning all together, the baskets will fill up and all the suction to the pool will decrease or stop. There are times during the year where about 60% of the repair work I do is related to suction cleaning systems picking up too much debris. Note: This is never covered under any warrantee.

There is more that I could add, but I am too tired to do so now. Installation is as follows:

What's the best automatic pool cleaner?




ce


Polaris, Aquabot, Dolphin, Orion or some other one?


Answer
I have a Polaris 360. Does a good job for the amount of money. Gets stuck in the corners quite allot. I've had it for 3 years and the only thing I have had to do is change the wheels. They were worn down. I also have changed the bag that collects the debris.




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Jumat, 02 Mei 2014

What automatic pool vacuum works the best?




bigredgevo


I want to buy an automatic pool cleaner and researched many. I came to a conclusion to either get a Polaris or Hayward. I saw many Haywards for sale on eBay and they complained that it gets stuck because of the shape of their pool. So now I am looking to get a Polaris 280. Can anyone explain the difference between Polaris 280, 360, 380, and basically all the numbers? I just need a pool vacuum that will do the job without me having to interfere with it.


Answer
Above ground pool or in-ground pool.
If it is an above ground pool, go for the Hayward BUG.
In-ground pool cleaners, I would have to say Hayward or Kreepy .
The fewer working parts the better.
All of these robots can get stuck, in some pools.

what is best automatic pool cleaner vaccuum for in ground pool?




john p


i know some have their own filter and some use the pools filter, but im looking for a low maintenance, inexpensive and good cleaning unit without alot of parts that break. anyone like the polaris 165?


Answer
Depends on wether you get mostly leaves or dirt.
If you get lots of leaves,a pressure side cleaner like polaris or hayward viper is best
If you get mostly dirt,then I would say a suction cleaner like a kreepy krauly or hayward navigator




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Kamis, 01 Mei 2014

What's the best automatic pool cleaner?




Laura T


I need an automatic pool cleaner, what's my best choise for no more than $200


Answer
From past experience and I assume this is an inground vinyl pool, Kreepy Krauly offers the best bang for the buck and you ought to be able to find one on sale around your budget.They're pretty bullet proof and do a good job.
If this is an in ground concrete pool, you'll need to budget a little more. Kreepy will work, but you'll run through pleats if your finish is rough.
If this is an above ground, something like a Polaris 65 would fit your budget and do a good job for that type of pool.

Clean pool?

Q. Okay, so I have this giant inground pool. I've had it for a few years (previous owners built it). Every time I open it, it is all green with algae. I know this will happen, but it takes me over 2 weeks to clean! It's only supposed to take a few days, one week at the most! I bought a new filter last year and it is still green. I always scrub it with an algae scrubber and vacuum the pool (p.s. what's the correct way to vacuum an inground pool?). I have the proper chemicals added too. What can I do to help clean it up faster?


Answer
I hope this isn't too long of an answer, but I hope it helps!

Adding the proper chemicals is what you should be doing, however you also need to make sure those chemicals are in proper balance with each other. Make sure your chlorine levels are where they should be and, more importantly, that they stay there.

Do you cover your pool in the winter? I don't cover mine; cleaning my pool is a year-round process. That means I'm not very familiar with cleaning techniques during winter if you do cover it, but I don't think that cleaning algae out of it is something you should have to do every year.

Sustaining circulation is also a good way to keep algae from clinging to the sides of your pool. Once they attach, they grow and spread quickly. Our pump runs for at least a few hours, every day...unless we go on a day trip out of town. I've also had my pump break down on me a few times where I had 0 circulation in my pool and within a week, my pool water went from a little cloudy to looking like green mud.

Are you familiar with backwashing? Diatomaceous earth (DE)? Sand? Backwashing is flushing your filter screens (in the pump) of small contaminants like dirt and algae particles. DE and sand is the filter aid you use that coats the screens of your filter to keep the stuff from getting re-deposited into your pool via the jets. Just look at the manufacturer's label on the pump and it should tell you what kind of filter you have; this should tell you what kind of filter aid it uses.

As for a "correct" way to vacuum, well there's really no right and wrong way to do it. There's automatic skimmer vacuums you can buy that get propulsion from your pump, and there's manual ones where you do it all yourself. The automatic ones will be pricier of course, but if you don't like breaking out in sweats or standing in bitter cold wind to operate a manual one, they can be life-savers.

Any questions you have can be directed to your local pool supply store; I prefer Leslie's myself, if you have one nearby--www.lesliespool.com. You can buy water test kits there; you dunk a test strip in the water and check where your chemical levels are so if any of them are off, they can be corrected. However, most places like this will also test a sample of the water you bring to their store and will offer advice.




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Rabu, 30 April 2014

My pool vacuum wont work?




sarah


i have an above ground pool and i recently bought an automatic pool cleaner from craigslist, so it didnt come with a manual. i dont think that it is working properly because i left it in for about 2hrs and it picked up a little bit but not everything. whenever it goes over an area with bugs around it, it doesnt pick it up it just makes the debris float around the pool. this is the model i have:http://www.epinions.com/reviews/Robo_Kleen_Robotic_Pool_Cleaner_RK01_A
somebody pleasee help!! thanks=]



Answer
Robo Kleen pool cleaners are designed for above ground pools so that is not going to be the problem. Go to the website below, find your model, and when you click on it, you should see an online version of the owners manual. That should help you out.

Cheap pool cleaners? Names, types.?

Q. like, floating cleaners, or robotic ones. (automatic pool cleaners) NOT chemicals. Where can i find some cheap ones? specific names of cheaper ones?


Answer
hello, i bought a cheap pool cleaner and it went all bad it cost more to have it repaired. instead of having it repair which it would have totaled the cost of a better quality one. i ended up purchasing the kreepy krawler, i've had it for 5 yrs and don't regret at all investing in the better one.




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Senin, 28 April 2014

With the power behind kitchenaid mixer motors, why do you think they do not turn off when the head is tilted?




John


I just tried to remove an attachment from a Kitchen Aid mixer and, not realizing what button/knob to push to loosen the attachment, turned it on with my hand on it. It yanked my hand pretty good and luckily damage was not worse but the whole incident makes me question...

The motor inside the mixer is (and needs to be) very powerful. Why on earth hasn't Kitchen Maid added a safety switch to the tilt head so that the mixer cannot be powered when the head is tilted up? Is there some need to have the motor on with the head tilted? I've seen plenty of power tools with far less power which have far more safety designed into the product.
While I appreciate Tom's answer below, there are a few things I take issue with.

1. Virtually every engineer, executive, secretary or janitor working for Kitchen Aid knows the following:

a. Most owners of the mixer will NOT unplug the unit each and every time attachments are changed.

b. All members of a household in which a mixer is present will not have read the entire operating manual.

c. People often make mistakes for a large variety of reasons.

and....

2. Error-proofing the mixer such that the motor cannot run when attachments are being changes is entirely possible.

After working extensively with both American and Asian automakers, one of many cultural difference I've noticed is what Tom stated. The Asians do not look at error-proofing and think "it can't be done," they look at it and think "it can be done, and if it is already being done, it can be done better."

Anyway, I digress. From reading this I think the answers to my question
I also find it amusing that electric mixers are a top contender when I search for "most dangerous kitchen appliances." Maybe it simply is because engineers cannot and will not make them safer.



Answer
It's impossible to idiot proof everything. Why would you work on any power equipment with power still applied? Especially since the operating manual specifically says never to do that.
You have a large brain that should be sufficient to protect you from this sort of mishap.
You're essentially asking how to protect you from yourself. Can't be done.

It's not a defect... you ignored the instructions. It's like crawling under a car when all that's holding it up is the jack and you didn't place jack stands like you're supposed to. Ignore the common sense part and no one can or will protect you.

BTW, what power tool with far less power has more safety designed into it? Hand drills are very powerful but there is nothing to keep them from energizing while changing bits. Same with my drill press. Nothing to keep it from starting while I have a chuck key inserted.
Can't get any safer than disconnecting power... like you were instructed to.

Direct from Kitchenaid:
"When using electrical appliances, basic safety precautions should always be
followed including the following:
1. Read all instructions.
2. To protect against risk of electrical shock, do not put mixer in water or other
liquid.
3. Close supervision is necessary when any appliance is used near children.
4. Unplug from outlet when not in use, before putting on or taking off parts, and
before cleaning."

EDIT:
So what I am noticing is that you speak in generalities. You still haven't named that power tool with far more safety build into it, that you mentioned.
As far as pulling the Asian vs. American mentality card, that's a crock. Easy to say, but you can't support the statement other than with your own anecdotal statement. Nonetheless, this is NOT AN ENGINEERING problem or issue. An interlock would be easy. So would unplugging the machine before you monkey with it, but you didn't do that. The latter is less expensive and more practical.
Guess what would happen if there were an interlock and it failed? You'd be wanting to sue. I'm not so sure you're not intimating that already with this supposed "design defect".
Learn your lesson already... keep your finger out of the light socket. (there's no interlock there, either)

Your statements about what "most owners" will or will not do are also unfounded and unsubstantiated. You made that up, too.
If you can't/don't follow instructions then THAT'S YOUR FAULT. Period.

I'm sick and tired of this mentality. Space heaters burn down homes all the time. So do matches. Or is is people using space heaters and matches that burn things down?
A car can be put into forward gear and the throttle stepped on even if when there's a store front full of people in front of you. GASP! Why aren't engineers doing something about that?? Surely the Asians have noticed this looming danger and are all over it!

The MOST dangerous thing in your kitchen is YOU. The fact that you and most of your friends (not most people) choose to ignore instructions, warnings, and cautions actually gives me hope for humanity as some of those genes will soon be removed from the pool.

Maybe all applicances should also have GFI built INTO them in case some idiot who wants to make toast next to his hot tub plugs it into an extension cord that's not on a GFI circuit?
Maybe toasters should have automatic doors on them to keep people from sticking butter knives into them while they're plugged in?
You getting the point yet? Probably not.

The bottom line, that you don't like and won't accept, is that there is NO TREND of people being injured by their stand mixers. The mixers that are the most dangerous are the hand and wand mixers with high-speed exposed blades. (you failed to research that before you listed "electric mixers" as a dangerous kitchen appliance) Perhaps that's the part that amused you.

Get a grip and stop blaming everyone for not protecting you from yourself. It can't be done and should not be done.
You couldn't figure out which button to press so you fumbled with it plugged in. Not good.... and contrary to what you were told not to do.

Here's another: Don't drive on the left side of the road in the US. It's not safe. There is nothing to stop you from doing this, even though the car has a lot of power. Just don't do it.

04 Mazda RX-8 First Car?







I'm thinking in getting an automatic 04 Mazda Rx-8 for my first car but I've read that it needs lots of maintenance and care but aside from that they have lots of issues. It has less than 35k miles on it and I think I can get it for 10 grand. Should I get it or look for other options.


Answer
I wouldn't usually recommend an RX8 as a "first car", but if you were to do so the automatic version would be the better choice as the 6 speed model is too powerful and twitchy for a novice driver. Way too many end up wrapped around a tree in the hands of novice drivers. The automatic version (especially the 04 & 05 models) have much less power and are more forgiving of a newbie driver learning the handling characteristics of rear-wheel drive. You can keep all your RSX's, Civics, and GTI's. They're all FWD and cannot EVER handle as well as a properly tuned RWD chassis.

Wankel Rotary engines do require some extra maintenance and care, but not a huge amount. More frequent oil changes (every 3000 miles/5000 KM) and Ignition component changes (plugs/wires/ign coils) are required.

Learning the "quirks" of the Rotary engine is required. Many of the reported problems you read about are from people who treat the RX8 as if it were just some everyday piston-driven car. It's not and it cannot be treated as such. A design limitation of the motor leaves it open to flooding much easier than a piston engine. If the motor is stopped while still running high-idle the excess fuel being pumped in can collect at the bottom of the rotor housings and thin or wash off the oil. This can results in loss of the seal between the housings and the apex seals on the rotors making the motor very difficult (or impossible) to start. There are a couple "de-flooding" procedures to learn or better yet prevent the issue from happening by ALWAYS letting the motor drop to low-idle (~900 RPM) before shutting it off. If it must be shut off cold you can rev up to 3000+ RPM and hold that for 10 seconds before shut down. This reduces fuel flow to "normal" while allowing any excess to burn off thus preventing flooding.

Another quirk is that the motor will build up carbon deposits easier. To prevent this you need to run the engine hard occasionally. Getting the motor up to red-line (while under load) frequently and when safe to do so really does a good job of this. "A Red-Line a Day will keep the Mechanic away" is a phrase every Rotary engine owner needs to know. A good, long highway run (6 - 8 hours) does this as well, so go for a long run on the occasional weekend. See the sights while cleaning your motor!

There is NO PROBLEM leaving an RX8 sitting for days at a time (contrary to C7S's post). I stored mine for 5 months every winter and for up to 2 weeks at a time while on business travel and NEVER had a problem starting my RX8 (which I owned for 5 years). You should disconnect the battery, though, if it's going to sit for more than 2 weeks as the electrical components will drain the battery. A weak battery CAN contribute to flooding because if it cannot start the motor the injected gas will pool as mentioned above.

One other note. 2004 was the first model year of the RX8 and as such did have more problems than later years (just like every new car). You will want to check to ensure all recalls were completed. There are some TSB's (technical service bulletins) that should be looked at as well. There was an upgraded starter TSB for the 04 & 05 models which spun faster and helped prevent flooding, for example.

Good luck on your decision. The RX8 is a great, fun car and there are a lot of owners that are quite passionate about this vehicle. Go check out the owners forum at:

http://www.rx8club.com




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Minggu, 27 April 2014

Can anyone tell me how Automatic Gold Dredgers work?




Man-eo


I have been trying to figure out how something that separates the gold from the mud/sand work??

and i am getting NO WERE, lol.

Can someone explain it to me?



Answer
No prob, I live in gold country. There are the floating self sustaining dredges. They are fairly small dredges on floats. They are usually anchored. There's a suction hose that acts similarly to an automatic pool cleaning device. It moves around the bottom and deposits the silt i.e. mud/sand into a shaker box where water is continually run through. Since gold is more dense/heavier than sand/mud it tends to not be washed away. It all has to do with the periodic table of elements and their mass. What it comes down to is a filtering action where the heaviest particles stay and the lighter slag is washed away. There's also a less autonomous system where a diver uses the suction hose and manually vacuums the bottom. Hope it helps.

Is a salt water pool better than fresh water for your health,and also for cleaning out pool after?










Answer
I reckon you're asking about salt generators.
There are many out on the market and their popularity has grown over the last 10 years. About half of all new pools being installed these days are set up with a salt generator.
There's something you should know about these generators. Most people believe that this is a non chlorine system. It actually is chlorine based. The idea behind these generators is to change salt into chlorine. Chlorine is actually a form of salt that's a little more "energized" than normal table salt. It's that property that allows it to effectively sanitize a pool.
With a salt generated pool, the actual salinity of the water is quite low. So low that unless you have exceptional taste buds, you won't taste it. You won't float any differently either than in fresh water.
There are a number of advantages with going salt. First and foremost is the "feel" of the water. A salt generated pool is a lot easier on eyes and skin than a traditionally chlorinated pool. The water is "softer". Because the chlorine produced by the unit is in a low constant dose, there's no high amount of chlorine in there to bother a person but it's still high enough and produced almost constantly, to keep the pool looking good. Another reason to go salt is the cost savings over time. These units are expensive initially but save a lot of money in chemicals that you don't need to add anymore. No more shock unless you get into trouble, less acid and less TA adjustment chems are needed as well. Salt generated pools tend to stay pretty stable in the water chemistry department. More so than any other form of sanitizer system. These systems are also automatic. You basically just set them and forget them with just a once a week check of the LCD screen on the control panel to make sure there's no issues. Maintenance usually just consists of a once a year cell cleaning which doesn't take long and the home owner can do this themselves.
The one drawback they have is the need to check your stabilizer levels a little more often than you normally do with a normal chlorine pool. You aren't using pucks anymore ( they have stabilizer in them) and you'll have to compensate for that when required. You'll also have to keep an eye on your salinity and add salt if required. This will happen once or twice per year with a sand filtered pool ( you're backwashing), only once as a rule with a cartridge or DE filter.
I disagree with what the other poster has said regarding retrofitting an older pool with salt. You can do it no problem at all. The only thing that would hinder that is if the pool were on Bromine before switching to salt/chlorine. In this case you'd have to dump the water since Bromine isn't compatible. If you're on chlorine now, it's not an issue. The only other thing I can think of that may be an issue is the pool's electrical grounding. If the pool was built properly it will be properly electrically bonded and there is no issue. If the pool builder cut corners and didn't bond the structure, ladders etc then there might be a corrosion issue 10 years down the road. It's easy enough to fix before the installation of the salt unit.
I also disagree with the other poster in that you DON'T need to still add chlorine. If the unit was sized and installed properly, it will work just fine by itself with no need for any additional chlorine unless you have a hundred kids suddenly using the pool and weren't prepared for it. Preparation is a simple matter of turning a knob on the control unit to up the amount of sanitizer produced before the party. That's it.
As a former pool tech and I was given the choice on what to use for a sanitizer system, I'd go salt in a heart beat. Less hassle, less overall cost and more enjoyment of the pool. So the answer to your question is yes salt generated pools are healthier and you're going to be cleaning any type of sanitized pool out. They all get dirty.




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what is the best above groung automatic pool cleaner?




chris j


what do u guys and gals think the best above ground AUTOMATIC pool cleaner is the best. i have a baracuda zippy now it did ok for a while now its just dead. please give me some SERIOUS answers. i know my kids can do it. im looking for some advice. thanks you in advance.


Answer
I do realize you said serious advice ... but I can't help myself. Actually I have a "spider" cleaner that I sometimes have used in my above ground pool - BUT ... in all seriousness - I now have a "pool boy" ... not the speedo kind - but a gentleman that comes weekly from my pool chemical supply place for a cost of only $35 weekly + chemicals. Money well spent! Just wanted to let you know to check into it because it is probably more affordable than you realize. The fellow brings chemicals and adds them as needed and that cost then is added to my charge ticket.

It is nice to not have to worry about time consuming (although relaxing) cleaning. It never gets out of hand due to weather or heat etc. All we have to do is come in from work & enjoy the water.

Good luck.

What is the best automatic inground pool cleaner? What brand and price?




Francaise


Its a vinyl inground pool. Rectangular 18x36. Also budget is an issue, I am looking at spending $500 or less.


Answer
After 25 years of hearing how great floor head systems are, I have come to a conclusion. If your pool would have stayed looking nice with any cleaning system in your pool, it will stay nice with a floor head system.
If you plan on owning a pool for 5-6 years, or longer, in my opinion the best cleaning system(Dollar for Dollar) is a Polaris 280 with a booster pump and a separate time clock. The reasons are as follows:
1.)Low cost of repairs. I have clients with Polaris 180âs that are 25 years old. (The 280 has the same drive system.) Total repair costs in 25 years are less than $300.00 total (Not counting bag replacements.) I Personally, have owned a Polaris 280 for almost 5 years and have not spent a dime. (other than on 2 bags, and one of them was torn by my kids, and the other by a big pine cone. )

2.)It will clean most pools spotless in 10-20 minutes per day. You have seen our (5) 40â plus Ponderosa pines that overhang our pool area. Not counting steps and love seat, if we keep the bag cleaned, the floor stays spotless.

3.)Initial installation costs should be in the $1400.00-1600.00 range. Floor head systems are usually about double the initial expense. Also, the motor for the cleaning system is usually a 2 H.P. or larger, and the pool needs to run for substantially greater times to even get close to what a Polaris will do in ½ hour or less. Also, if you are not the initial purchaser of the system, you will not get a lifetime warrantee. Replacement gear systems, floor heads, ⦠can average more than $200.00 per year after the first 2 year, not to mention if the cleaner is not working correctly, i.e. heads jammed in the up position, actuator gears jammed, ⦠you are running that large motor with absolutely no cleaning going on. Any way you look at it, running a ¾ H.P. booster motor for 20-30 minutes is going to be a lot cheaper than running a 2 H.P. for 3-4 hours. Add into this that most motors run for more than 2 hours per day seem to have a life span in the 5-6 year range, and that a 2 H.P. motor is about double the cost, I cannot see spending the money.

4.)Suction side cleaners have a lower initial cost, but are annoying because either they will not pick up sticks, twigs, small rocks, ⦠or they will, and then they will completely stop working until you spend 10 minutes pulling them out and cleaning the debris out of them. Some of these will end up needing replacement parts just because of punctured diaphragms, ⦠This is in addition to an average annual repair cost of about $200-250, after the first year or two. In less than 5 years(More likely 3 years), if you add in electricity savings, pool cleanliness and thus chemical costs savings, and electrical savings, you have more than paid for the Polaris. If you add to this the fact that, if you have a suction side cleaner, you will have had to bring it in to the shop at least 4-5 times, having a non-functional cleaning system, thus a horridly dirty pool at least 4-5 times, the fact that often it dies a slow death each time so your pool doesnât look right for months prior to each rebuilding, and the repeated hassles of needing to unplug the system when ever any ârealâ debris ends up in the pool, and I wonât have anything else in my pool, or my families pools. To summarize, If you are buying a cleaner and are selling the home quickly, I would probably go with a pool Vac(if there are no rocks, sticks, big leaves, ⦠In other words, dirt only, but your annual repair costs will be high) or a Kreepy Krauley if you have anything else(Or want 40% less repair costs than the Pool Vac).

5.)Floor heads, or suction cleaners destroy the natural water flow around the pool which is responsible for moving the debris around to the skimmer on the surface, and for moving silt, and dirt to the main drain. Therefore, the surface areas of both sides of the pool(If the cleaners are functioning properly) will be an average of 20-40% dirtier than the same pool with a pool vac, return lines properly adjusted, and approximately ¾ of the suction of the pool going to the main drain. Also, since almost all of the suction for a suction side cleaner is directed to the cleaner, and thatâs run through an extra 30 feet or so of corrugated hose, the water flow is greatly reduced, and to get the same water filtration you will need to run that system approximately 25% -30% longer than a system without a suction cleaner. Thatâs 1 ¾ hrs longer running a 1 H.P. motor than is needed to run the ¾ H.P booster. Also, as a suction cleaner picks up debris, assuming it doesnât get plugged up and stop functioning all together, the baskets will fill up and all the suction to the pool will decrease or stop. There are times during the year where about 60% of the repair work I do is related to suction cleaning systems picking up too much debris. Note: This is never covered under any warrantee.

There is more that I could add, but I am too tired to do so now. Installation is as follows:




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