Sabtu, 02 November 2013

What automatic pool vacuum works the best?

automatic pool cleaner stuck on Polaris 360 Automatic swimming Pool Cleaner
automatic pool cleaner stuck image



bigredgevo


I want to buy an automatic pool cleaner and researched many. I came to a conclusion to either get a Polaris or Hayward. I saw many Haywards for sale on eBay and they complained that it gets stuck because of the shape of their pool. So now I am looking to get a Polaris 280. Can anyone explain the difference between Polaris 280, 360, 380, and basically all the numbers? I just need a pool vacuum that will do the job without me having to interfere with it.


Answer
Above ground pool or in-ground pool.
If it is an above ground pool, go for the Hayward BUG.
In-ground pool cleaners, I would have to say Hayward or Kreepy .
The fewer working parts the better.
All of these robots can get stuck, in some pools.

What is the best automatic pool cleaner (sweeper)?




Terry N


I have an inground pool and hate to vacuum the pool. What is the best one out there?


Answer
The absolute best would be a booster pump powered Polaris, any model. If your budget doesn't allow spending 1800 bucks then my vote is for both the Kreepy Krauly and the Hayward Navigator. Both have their strengths and weaknesses and a lot will depend if this is a concrete or vinyl pool. Kreepy's have a tendency to plow through just about anything, but they also tend to get stuck on many pool shapes unless you purchase the optional back up device for them. The Navigators don't tend to get stuck, but they are also not as adept at climbing walls or powering through heavy debris.




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Kamis, 31 Oktober 2013

how do above ground automatic pool cleaners work??

automatic pool cleaner zodiac on robotic pool cleaner baracuda suction side mx8 robotic pool cleaner
automatic pool cleaner zodiac image



Hugeez





Answer
the most common form of pool cleaners are suction cleaners which have a hose that simply attaches through the skimmer. (If the pool has a main drain, it would need to be closed using the valve). The cleaner automatically moves around the bottom of the pool, sucking debris off the bottom of the pool and trapping it in the pump basket and filter. The pump basket should be emptied before and after the cleaning cycle. And the filter should be cleaned after cleaning the pool. Any large debris (leaves, sticks, and such) should be removed from the pool with a leaf rake before hooking up cleaner to prevent clogging up plumbing and allowing for a more effecient cleaning cycle. If you are considering purchasing a cleaner, I highly recommend the Zodiac brand. ( By the way, incase you're wondering, I own a swimming pool company and would be more than happy to answer any other questions you may have)

i have a Kontiki 2 automatic pool vacuum. it does not seem to work at all. anyone have any suggestions?




ncpirate7





Answer
The only place I have seen this cleaner is on EBay. The seller claims it is made by Zodiac. It appears there is little if any difference between the G3 and Kontiki, except the color. Zodiac does not mention this model on their site but they do have a troubleshooting guide that discusses the G3. You may want to look at this guide to help determine if you can make some adjustments http://www.baracuda.com/tech_help.htm . The EBay seller also lists a 1 year warranty on this cleaner.




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Selasa, 29 Oktober 2013

What is the best automatic pool cleaner?

automatic pool cleaner not moving on VAC is moving in a set pattern
automatic pool cleaner not moving image



N.


I have a below ground pool and am trying to find reviews on automatic pool cleaners. Consumer Reports doesn't seem to have anything on the subject :( Can anyone lend some insight and perspective on automatic pool cleaners and make a recommendation? Much thanks in advance.


Answer
Suction-Side Automatic Pool Cleaners

In researching suction-side cleaners, weâve found that the Stanley PoolTec DLX In-Ground Automatic Pool Vacuum Cleaner is the newest and most innovative way to keep your pool clean. The trusted brand of Stanley, with its master craftsmanship and innovative design provides a cleaner that is easy to install and operate and provides continuous cleaning of most in-ground pools. Operating with your poolâs filter, this suction cleaning mechanism maintains a proper angle for optimal performance while cleaning pools with depths of 9 ft.

Pressure-Side Automatic Pool Cleaners

If you are looking for a pressure-side cleaner and you want your pool cleaned quickly and completely, we recommend the Kreepy Krauly Legend cleaner from Pentair. A host of design features combine to keep the Legend cleaner on the move, thoroughly cleaning most pools in just 1 to 3 hours. The debris channel and large intake throat handles leaves, twigs and other large debris with ease. The Front-wheel drive generates maximum traction on inclined surfaces for total coverage of pool bottom and walls. The independent booster pump helps provide optimum cleaning power and unimpeded surface skimming. Another great feature is that disposable cleaner bags are also availableâno need to empty or touch debris again.



Robotic / Electronic Automatic Pool Cleaners

Many consumers are now selecting incredibly efficient robotic units as their cleaners of choice. These are great at cleaning small debris and sand as well as one of the only types that clean and scrub the walls and tile line. The Dolphin Supreme M3 and M4 from Maytronics are great options for robotic cleaners. These award-winning models have features that are designed for customers and are backed by the Maytronics name which has provided 25 years of technological leadership. Not only are Dolphin M3 and M4 energy efficient (average cost of less than $0.15 to clean the pool), but they have weekly timers where a user can preset cleanings throughout the week.

Here are some more links to more information. I hope this helps.

which automatic pool cleaner is better, kreepy krauly or polaris?




mrh007


i need to buy an auotmatic pool cleaner. i've heard some bad things about the polaris and i'm thinking of going with the kreepy krauly instead. has anyone used these? which one will last longer and work better?


Answer
Two different animals. Kreepy is a suctiom side cleaner. Polaris is pressure side. Polaris makes a bunch of models. Choosing which one is best for you is a challenge in itself. (Polaris also makes a suction side unit, by the way.) Personally I much prefer Kreepy over Polaris. It is simpler. Has one moving part. Easier to repair. Average repair is much cheaper than Polaris. Frankly, when I had my pool store I finally quit selling Polaris products. I wasn't happy with the overall quality of the units. Every one I sold became more of a liability for the store. I'd opt for Kreepy if I were you.




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what is the best automatic pool cleaner for a fiberglass pool?

best automatic pool cleaner for fiberglass pool on cleaner polaris 380 pool cleaner f3 $ 645 95 polaris 380 pool cleaner ...
best automatic pool cleaner for fiberglass pool image



bslevin8


I am wondering what is the best pool cleaner for a fiberglass pool, i have heard many different opinions from stores trying to sell their products, some say baracuda X7 is the best then another store said no way for a fiberglass pool, that i should use polaris. Anyone have any input? what are my options?


Answer
i own a pool company.and have seen many different auto pool cleaners.( 13 years) and by far a polaris would be your best bet.however you would be better off if you by one online as it is cheaper.look for SWIMMING POOL DEALERS. buying one online you cut out the middle man because of the price mark up they have.if you go to a pool store expect to pay a thousand 1000.00 dollars or more.buy it online most of the time it is cheaper

My Poolshark Auto Pool Cleaner has left mark on fibreglass pool.Has this happened to you, will it damage pool?




poolconsum


We recently installed a Pentair Water Poolshark Automatic Pool cleaner and it seems to have left a white line mark, that is rough to touch, on the bottom of all sides of the pool and especially the corners. Has anyone else had this experience and will it damage the pool. Thank you.


Answer
id call pool shark maybe its missing a piece of trim or something




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What a the best quality automatic pool cleaner (vacuum) I can buy for the best price?

automatic pool cleaner prices on ... Automatic Pool Cleaner Vacuum -Complete Set W/ Color Box Price
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NicMar


Looking for the best system but for the most economical price. Most of the automatic pool cleaners I've found online are around $400, anyone know of a good one I can buy for significantly less?
Thanks in advance :)



Answer
Calsplash Pools do one at around $270, or Aquabot, but not sure how much they cost.

What is the difference between in ground and above ground cleaner?




Dez


I am looking for an automatic pool cleaner, but i found out that there are two type. one is in ground and one is abover ground. I dont know what's the different between the two.


Answer
It's referring to the type of pool you have. Above-ground cleaners mainly cover the bottom of the pool. Since the sides in most inground pools have either curves or slopes between the floor and the walls, (above-ground pools usually have right angles) the cleaners are generally able to climb the walls and clean them as well. (And, generally there will be a big price difference between the two types; in-ground cleaners generally cost a lot more.




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Ways of conserving water?

automatic pool cleaner drain cover on Polaris Unibridge Unicover Main Drain Cover
automatic pool cleaner drain cover image



Anugrah P


I have to write an essay on ways of conserving water and the difference it can make?
Please Help!



Answer
Tips for the Northwest
All | Indoor | Outdoor


#1. There are a number of ways to save water, and they all start with you.


#2. When washing dishes by hand, don't let the water run while rinsing. Fill one sink with wash water and the other with rinse water.


#3. Some refrigerators, air conditioners and ice-makers are cooled with wasted flows of water. Consider upgrading with air-cooled appliances for significant water savings.


#4. Adjust sprinklers so only your lawn is watered and not the house, sidewalk, or street.


#5. Run your clothes washer and dishwasher only when they are full. You can save up to 1,000 gallons a month.


#6. Choose shrubs and groundcovers, instead of turf, for hard-to-water areas such as steep slopes and isolated strips.


#7. Install covers on pools and spas and check for leaks around your pumps.


#8. Use the garbage disposal sparingly. Compost vegetable food waste instead and save gallons every time.


#9. Plant in the fall when conditions are cooler and rainfall is more plentiful.



#10. For cold drinks keep a pitcher of water in the refrigerator instead of running the tap. This way, every drop goes down you and not the drain.


#11. Monitor your water bill for unusually high use. Your bill and water meter are tools that can help you discover leaks.


#12. Water your lawn and garden in the morning or evening when temperatures are cooler to minimize evaporation.


#13. Wash your fruits and vegetables in a pan of water instead of running water from the tap.


#14. Spreading a layer of organic mulch around plants retains moisture and saves water, time and money.


#15. Use a broom instead of a hose to clean your driveway and sidewalk and save water every time.


#16. If your shower fills a one-gallon bucket in less than 20 seconds, replace the showerhead with a water-efficient model.


#17. Collect the water you use for rinsing fruits and vegetables, then reuse it to water houseplants.


back to top
#18. If water runs off your lawn easily, split your watering time into shorter periods to allow for better absorption.


#19. We're more likely to notice leaks indoors, but don't forget to check outdoor faucets, sprinklers and hoses for leaks.


#20. If you have an automatic refilling device, check your pool periodically for leaks.


#21. Check the root zone of your lawn or garden for moisture before watering using a spade or trowel. If it's still moist 2 inches under the soil surface, you still have enough water.


#22. When buying new appliances, consider those that offer cycle and load size adjustments. They're more water and energy efficient.


#23. Shorten your shower by a minute or two and you'll save up to 150 gallons per month.


#24. Upgrade older toilets with water efficient models.


#25. Adjust your lawn mower to a higher setting. A taller lawn shades roots and holds soil moisture better than if it is closely clipped.


#26. When cleaning out fish tanks, give the nutrient-rich water to your plants.


#27. Use sprinklers for large areas of grass. Water small patches by hand to avoid waste.


#28. Put food coloring in your toilet tank. If it seeps into the toilet bowl without flushing, you have a leak. Fixing it can save up to 1,000 gallons a month.


#29. When running a bath, plug the tub before turning the water on, then adjust the temperature as the tub fills up.


#30. Walkways and patios provide space that doesn't ever need to be watered. These useful "rooms" can also add value to your property.


#31. Collect water from your roof to water your garden.


#32. Designate one glass for your drinking water each day or refill a water bottle. This will cut down on the number glasses to wash.


#33. Rather than following a set watering schedule, check for soil moisture two to three inches below the surface before watering.


#34. Install a rain sensor on your irrigation controller so your system won't run when it's raining.


#35. Don't use running water to thaw food. Defrost food in the refrigerator for water efficiency and food safety.


#36. Use drip irrigation for shrubs and trees to apply water directly to the roots where it's needed.


#37. Grab a wrench and fix that leaky faucet. Faucet repair can save up to 300 gallons a month.


#38. Reduce the amount of lawn in your yard by planting shrubs and ground covers appropriate to your site and region.


#39. When doing laundry, match the water level to the size of the load.


back to top
#40. Teach your children to turn off faucets tightly after each use.


#41. Remember to check your sprinkler system valves periodically for leaks and keep the sprinkler heads in good shape.


#42. Use a water-efficient showerhead. They're inexpensive, easy to install, and can save you up to 750 gallons a month.


#43. Soak pots and pans instead of letting the water run while you scrape them clean.


#44. Don't water your lawn on windy days when most of the water blows away or evaporates.


#45. Water your plants deeply but less frequently to encourage deep root growth and drought tolerance.


#46. Know where your master water shut-off valve is located. This could save water and prevent damage to your home.


#47. To decrease water from being wasted on sloping lawns, apply water for five minutes and then repeated two to three times.


#48. Group plants with the same watering needs together to avoid overwatering some while underwatering others.


#49. Use a lawer of organic material on the surface of your planting beds to minimize weed growth that competes for water.


#50. Use a minimum amount of organic or slow release fertilizer to promote a healthy and drought tolerant landscape.


#51. Trickling or cascading fountains lose less water to evaporation, than those spraying water into the air.


#52. Use a commercial car wash that recycles water.


#53. Avoid recreational water toys that require a constant flow of water.


#54. Turn off the water while brushing your teeth and save 25 gallons a month.


#55. Use a rain gauge, or empty tuna can, to track rainfall on your lawn. Then reduce your watering accordingly.


#56. Encourage your school system and local government to develop and promote water conservation among children and adults.


#57. Learn how to shut off your automatic watering system in case it malfunctions or you get an unexpected rain.


#58. Set a kitch

Is a salt water pool better than fresh water for your health,and also for cleaning out pool after?

automatic pool cartridge cleaner on Aquabot Turbo T Automatic Pool Cleaner ABTRT
automatic pool cartridge cleaner image



Fairbanks





Answer
I reckon you're asking about salt generators.
There are many out on the market and their popularity has grown over the last 10 years. About half of all new pools being installed these days are set up with a salt generator.
There's something you should know about these generators. Most people believe that this is a non chlorine system. It actually is chlorine based. The idea behind these generators is to change salt into chlorine. Chlorine is actually a form of salt that's a little more "energized" than normal table salt. It's that property that allows it to effectively sanitize a pool.
With a salt generated pool, the actual salinity of the water is quite low. So low that unless you have exceptional taste buds, you won't taste it. You won't float any differently either than in fresh water.
There are a number of advantages with going salt. First and foremost is the "feel" of the water. A salt generated pool is a lot easier on eyes and skin than a traditionally chlorinated pool. The water is "softer". Because the chlorine produced by the unit is in a low constant dose, there's no high amount of chlorine in there to bother a person but it's still high enough and produced almost constantly, to keep the pool looking good. Another reason to go salt is the cost savings over time. These units are expensive initially but save a lot of money in chemicals that you don't need to add anymore. No more shock unless you get into trouble, less acid and less TA adjustment chems are needed as well. Salt generated pools tend to stay pretty stable in the water chemistry department. More so than any other form of sanitizer system. These systems are also automatic. You basically just set them and forget them with just a once a week check of the LCD screen on the control panel to make sure there's no issues. Maintenance usually just consists of a once a year cell cleaning which doesn't take long and the home owner can do this themselves.
The one drawback they have is the need to check your stabilizer levels a little more often than you normally do with a normal chlorine pool. You aren't using pucks anymore ( they have stabilizer in them) and you'll have to compensate for that when required. You'll also have to keep an eye on your salinity and add salt if required. This will happen once or twice per year with a sand filtered pool ( you're backwashing), only once as a rule with a cartridge or DE filter.
I disagree with what the other poster has said regarding retrofitting an older pool with salt. You can do it no problem at all. The only thing that would hinder that is if the pool were on Bromine before switching to salt/chlorine. In this case you'd have to dump the water since Bromine isn't compatible. If you're on chlorine now, it's not an issue. The only other thing I can think of that may be an issue is the pool's electrical grounding. If the pool was built properly it will be properly electrically bonded and there is no issue. If the pool builder cut corners and didn't bond the structure, ladders etc then there might be a corrosion issue 10 years down the road. It's easy enough to fix before the installation of the salt unit.
I also disagree with the other poster in that you DON'T need to still add chlorine. If the unit was sized and installed properly, it will work just fine by itself with no need for any additional chlorine unless you have a hundred kids suddenly using the pool and weren't prepared for it. Preparation is a simple matter of turning a knob on the control unit to up the amount of sanitizer produced before the party. That's it.
As a former pool tech and I was given the choice on what to use for a sanitizer system, I'd go salt in a heart beat. Less hassle, less overall cost and more enjoyment of the pool. So the answer to your question is yes salt generated pools are healthier and you're going to be cleaning any type of sanitized pool out. They all get dirty.

I need above ground pool advice?




Barbra W


We are going to get an above ground pool and was looking for advice on a few things. The size is 18 x 40 and 54 inches deep. We will be installing it ourselves with help from friends with good Equipment. What kind of pump system, sand or cartridge? beaded or overlap liner? chlorine or a different chemical? what type of Accessories? Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!


Answer
I definitely think sand filter is a better choice. However, I would go with a sand alternative instead of actual sand. You use half the amount and it filters much better (down to 30 microns with sand and down to 5 microns with alternative). The sand alternative is sometimes called Zeolite or Vitroclean. I prefer beaded liners because if you ever need to replace the liners, you don't have to take your pool apart. You simply drain and replace. Overlap liners are not as easy. Chlorine is fine, but if you are looking for a cleaner, gentler solution, you might want to try a salt chlorine generator system. They definitely make the water softer and easier on the eyes, but they do require a bigger investment up front. As for accessories, I would definitely get an automatic pool cleaner. Polaris and Robo-Kleen both make good above ground models. Also, a good floating pool light will allow you to swim at night.




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What is the best automatic inground pool cleaner? What brand and price?

automatic pool cleaner replacement parts on Parts Diagram - Maytronics Dolphin Deluxe 4 Robotic Pool Cleaner ...
automatic pool cleaner replacement parts image



Francaise


Its a vinyl inground pool. Rectangular 18x36. Also budget is an issue, I am looking at spending $500 or less.


Answer
After 25 years of hearing how great floor head systems are, I have come to a conclusion. If your pool would have stayed looking nice with any cleaning system in your pool, it will stay nice with a floor head system.
If you plan on owning a pool for 5-6 years, or longer, in my opinion the best cleaning system(Dollar for Dollar) is a Polaris 280 with a booster pump and a separate time clock. The reasons are as follows:
1.)Low cost of repairs. I have clients with Polaris 180âs that are 25 years old. (The 280 has the same drive system.) Total repair costs in 25 years are less than $300.00 total (Not counting bag replacements.) I Personally, have owned a Polaris 280 for almost 5 years and have not spent a dime. (other than on 2 bags, and one of them was torn by my kids, and the other by a big pine cone. )

2.)It will clean most pools spotless in 10-20 minutes per day. You have seen our (5) 40â plus Ponderosa pines that overhang our pool area. Not counting steps and love seat, if we keep the bag cleaned, the floor stays spotless.

3.)Initial installation costs should be in the $1400.00-1600.00 range. Floor head systems are usually about double the initial expense. Also, the motor for the cleaning system is usually a 2 H.P. or larger, and the pool needs to run for substantially greater times to even get close to what a Polaris will do in ½ hour or less. Also, if you are not the initial purchaser of the system, you will not get a lifetime warrantee. Replacement gear systems, floor heads, ⦠can average more than $200.00 per year after the first 2 year, not to mention if the cleaner is not working correctly, i.e. heads jammed in the up position, actuator gears jammed, ⦠you are running that large motor with absolutely no cleaning going on. Any way you look at it, running a ¾ H.P. booster motor for 20-30 minutes is going to be a lot cheaper than running a 2 H.P. for 3-4 hours. Add into this that most motors run for more than 2 hours per day seem to have a life span in the 5-6 year range, and that a 2 H.P. motor is about double the cost, I cannot see spending the money.

4.)Suction side cleaners have a lower initial cost, but are annoying because either they will not pick up sticks, twigs, small rocks, ⦠or they will, and then they will completely stop working until you spend 10 minutes pulling them out and cleaning the debris out of them. Some of these will end up needing replacement parts just because of punctured diaphragms, ⦠This is in addition to an average annual repair cost of about $200-250, after the first year or two. In less than 5 years(More likely 3 years), if you add in electricity savings, pool cleanliness and thus chemical costs savings, and electrical savings, you have more than paid for the Polaris. If you add to this the fact that, if you have a suction side cleaner, you will have had to bring it in to the shop at least 4-5 times, having a non-functional cleaning system, thus a horridly dirty pool at least 4-5 times, the fact that often it dies a slow death each time so your pool doesnât look right for months prior to each rebuilding, and the repeated hassles of needing to unplug the system when ever any ârealâ debris ends up in the pool, and I wonât have anything else in my pool, or my families pools. To summarize, If you are buying a cleaner and are selling the home quickly, I would probably go with a pool Vac(if there are no rocks, sticks, big leaves, ⦠In other words, dirt only, but your annual repair costs will be high) or a Kreepy Krauley if you have anything else(Or want 40% less repair costs than the Pool Vac).

5.)Floor heads, or suction cleaners destroy the natural water flow around the pool which is responsible for moving the debris around to the skimmer on the surface, and for moving silt, and dirt to the main drain. Therefore, the surface areas of both sides of the pool(If the cleaners are functioning properly) will be an average of 20-40% dirtier than the same pool with a pool vac, return lines properly adjusted, and approximately ¾ of the suction of the pool going to the main drain. Also, since almost all of the suction for a suction side cleaner is directed to the cleaner, and thatâs run through an extra 30 feet or so of corrugated hose, the water flow is greatly reduced, and to get the same water filtration you will need to run that system approximately 25% -30% longer than a system without a suction cleaner. Thatâs 1 ¾ hrs longer running a 1 H.P. motor than is needed to run the ¾ H.P booster. Also, as a suction cleaner picks up debris, assuming it doesnât get plugged up and stop functioning all together, the baskets will fill up and all the suction to the pool will decrease or stop. There are times during the year where about 60% of the repair work I do is related to suction cleaning systems picking up too much debris. Note: This is never covered under any warrantee.

There is more that I could add, but I am too tired to do so now. Installation is as follows:

Where can I purchase repair/replacement parts DIRECT for my Jandy RS6 pool controller?




Assman


My Power Center got struck by lightning (not directly) and fried the low voltage board/bezel and the installer FORGOT to order & install the OPTIONAL surge protection kit in S Florida where we get more lightning strikes than anywhere else in the world. I am an electrician and metered everything and the the only item that is definitely bad is the board. Every else is within spec. I know the system inside and out and can install the board and surge protector myself so I do not need and expensive specialist. The sad thing is that when that particular item is bad, NOTHING works. Poole gets nasty very quickly. If anyone has had the same problem and found a work around, I would love to hear about it. The only thing I did so far was to rewire the pump directly to a timer switch off a spare breaker. At least, I can run the filter and automatic suction cleaner but it sucks when you have this nice, expensive automated system that might as well be a boat anchor because nearly all you do is back to manual.


Answer
ebay local pool supply store




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Senin, 28 Oktober 2013

I have some questions about my pool?

automatic pool cleaner us on Hayward phantom pool cleaner information
automatic pool cleaner us image



Jenny Ucke


I have some questions about my pool?
We bought a new house with a in ground pool........ We had the professionals come and get our pool going for the summer . They put the filter together got it running and added the shock. They told us a lot of info about maintaining it but I am still kinda confused. The pool looks pretty clear at this point . Here are my questions .
1 when I vacuum in the beginning when there is a lot of debree do I always have to back wash my filter ?
2 when I do backwash do I always have to add more DE to the filter through the skimmer . ( 6 cups he said ) but 6 cups every time ?
3 Do I do the backwash and then do the rinse cycle ?
4 There is an automatic chlorinator do I need to put the tablets in and it will do the rest or do I have to set it up ? was there chlorine in the shock so I don't add more ?
5 We have the ph plus and ph minus chemicals do I add the chlorine then check the levels and adjust in according to that ? PH is dealing with the chlorine levels rite ?
Any info would be appreciated thanks



Answer
Here ya go:
You should know what back washing is. In your filter you have screens. The openings in the screens are not small enough to thoroughly filter the water so the water stays clear. You add diatomaceous earth (DE). DE is large enough to catch on the filter screens while allowing openings that are so small that they create a better filter for the water. The filter screens are coated with DE. Water passes through the DE & is, assuming the chemicals are correct, very clean.

When you back wash, you turn the pump off & adjust the valves. Valves control the direction of the flow of water & by adjusting the valves you reverse the flow of water through the filters. By reversing the flow of water, the water washes the DE off the pool filters & the "dirty" DE is washed out of the system.

1. With regard to the effect of debris & back washing, the answer is "DEPENDS" and this is why. You only need to backwash when the pressure in your filter goes up about 6-8 pounds from the "new" back wash level. After you backwash, look at the pressure. Let's say it's at 12 pounds. When the pressure gets up to 18 to 20 pounds, then backwash as that means that the DE is 'full' and can no longer filter the water.

2. Thus, after you back wash you must re-coat the filter screens. So, the answer to your question is YES. Tou will add, per what "he" said, 6 cups. When you add the DE, you'll have already re-adjusted the filter valves so the water is flowing in the normal direction. Add the DE through the skimmers by slowly pouring it into the water& stirring it up with your hand. You can also use a large bucket full of water. Pour the 6 cups of DE into the water in the bucket & stir the DE into the water. Then simply pour the solution into a skimmer. DO NOT put the DE directly into the pool as it will settle to the bottom of the pool & not get into the filters.

3. Back washing & rinsing are the same thing.

4. Yes, you need to put tablets in the automatic chlorinator. If you shocked the pool (shock is really just a ton of chlorine), wait to refurbish the chlorinator as the chlorine levels of the pool will be very high. You should monitor the chlorine level of the pool and when it gets down to around 3.0 then start putting the tablets in chlorinator. Maintain chlorine levels as close to 1.0 to 2.0 as possible.

5. If you are using chlorine tablets the pH of the pool will rise. When the pH rises you risk the accumulation of a scale or calculus inside of the pipes. If enough scale accumulates it can actually plug up the pipes. To counter that rise you add acid which lowers the pH. Ideal pH levels are from 7.2 to 7.4.

You can buy the acid in most stores. It is called MURIATIC ACID (acid) and is probably cheaper than buying the product called pH MINUS. If the pH of the pool gets too low then the water is becoming acidic and that can oxidize (or corrode) the pipes. That, of course, would be a very expensive repair as would be the repair from scale build up from high pH. Although a change in pH is caused by chlorine it is not a measure of the chlorine. Both levels (chlorine and pH) must be monitored & adjusted as needed.

With regard to using liquid acid vs. pH minus ...The pH minus is a bit safer to use as it comes in a granulated form as opposed to a liquid. Acid should also be added ONLY to the deep end of the pool as when added to the shallow end it might not get diluted quickly enough & by the time it reaches the bottom of the pool it is still so strong it can etch the plaster. When adding acid to the deep end, pour a small steady stream into the water while walking around the pool. It's easy to do.

Personally, I used acid. It is easy to pour out of a bottle. Start off using small amounts as you can always add more. Wait an hour after the pour and test the pH. Plus acid is MUCH much less expensive than pH minus. The acid is also more easily available as it is frequently sold in grocery stores & home improvement stores as well as pool supply stores where, pH minus is rarely sold in many stores. If you were to get acid on your skin, all you do is step into the pool & rinse your skin. Just keep it away from the kids.

The only reason you'd need to have pH Plus around would be in case you put too much acid (or pH minus) in the pool & you need to balance the pH. However, you can also use a powder called SODA ASH, which HUGELY less expensive, instead of pH plus.

One last thing, don't be frightened by what I've said about using the acid & it eating up the pipes. It takes a number of repetitions over years of abuse for the pipes to be dramatically effected.

Could You Help Me Open My Pool?




Brooke


See, we just moved and the pool hasn't been opened for like 10 years. My dad and I are trying to get it to clear up, but we just can't get it! When we first took the tarp of, it was coal black.

The filter's running and we put in some shock so it's starting to clear up. My dad put some algie killer in the pool. Now it's all white and swirly.

We have found frogs and snails living in the water.

We can't drain the pool because it's inground and if we do, it will pop up.

So, how can we get the water cleared? Please help. And can you also tell us how long it would take?

There's water under the pool that will cause it to pop up if we drain it.

And we don't want to pay someone. My dad has it set he wants to do it himself.



Answer
First, clean out the skimmers, the basket by the pump, and the filters. Keep the pump running and let the water clear until you can see the bottom. If it doesn't clear in a day or so, go to the pool supply store and get some clarifier. Then use a "leaf rake" on the end of your extension pole to scoop up all the leaves and junk from the bottom of the pool. Once the junk is out of the pool and the water's clear take a water sample to the pool supply store and they will test it for free and tell you what to do to balance the chemicals. You can catch the frogs with the leaf rake and relocate them. A pool brush on the end of the pole with dislodge any snails, scale, and stuff clinging to the sides and bottom.

Once you've got it clear, clean, and balanced you'll need to test the water weekly, maintain the skimmers and filters, and brush it once in a while. If you don't have an automatic pool sweep you need to get a vacuum and use it weekly. Pick one day a week and do your maintenance every week on that day. Wednesday works for me, but that fits my schedule.

We love our pool and spa. We live in North Texas and get to use it longer than many parts of the country. We never shut it down, just cut back on chemicals in the dead of winter. We use the spa year 'round. Good luck with yours. Once it's clean it doesn't take much to keep it going.




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Minggu, 27 Oktober 2013

I have an automatic pool cleaner that looks like a ladybug that doesnt work.?




lanamerlit


She will suck dirt but will not move. If anyone has any ideas please let me know. They are expensive and I would like to repair before I buy a new one. Thanks.


Answer
Try asking this in the SWIMMING AND DIVING section. This is POOL & SNOOKER




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