Rabu, 14 Agustus 2013

What Chemicals Should I Use To Remove Green Algae From My Swimming Pool?

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kenne727


My pool has been looking very green lately. I have noticed that the bottom (the floor) and the walls of the pool are frequently greenish and needs to be vacuumed very often. But I want to know why this is the case. Is this because of algae growing? What chemicals should I buy. I know that shock and phosfree is needed. What effect will these chemicals have on the algae and water, and what do these chemicals do?

Thank you



Answer
Every pool owner has, at one time or another, done battle with the occasional algae bloom. Algae spores constantly enter the pool, brought in by wind, rain or even contaminated swimsuits or equipment.
Algae are a living aquatic creature that multiplies rapidly on warm, sunny days. Containing chlorophyll, algae utilizes photosynthesis to grow. That is, they take in carbon dioxide and expend oxygen as a byproduct. There are over 21,000 known varieties of algae and they classified into colors âgreen, yellow, black, pink.
Proper chemical balance and sanitizer residuals will prevent many opportunities for algae to bloom. High pH and low chlorine (or other sanitizer) can give algae a great start to genesis. General cleanliness of the pool is also important. Organic material and bacteria can contribute to algae growth.
Regular brushing of seemingly clean pools is not only good exercise for you, but prevents dirt from harboring in the pores of the plaster, which is a good start for an algae colony. Add unstabilized clorine granules (shock) to the pool. the amount of chlorine you add will depend on the capacity of your pool (150gr/10,000L or approx. 5oz of chlorine/2500gal of water). Vacuum the white residue from the bottom of the pool the next day. Clean your filter to remove any alga residue. Rebalance your pool water.
The cause of reoccurring algae, especially if it keeps appearing in the same places, is poor circulation. Often we find the return(s) of the pool (where water reenters the pool from the filter system) directed towards the surface of the pool. Dead spots are areas where little or no water is circulating. Even with main drains, the returns pointed upward to the surface mean little or no circulation on the bottom or lower areas of the walls. This results in little or no algaecide reaching these spots and algae never really being eradicated.
The there are ways to increase the area of circulation is to run your automatic cleaner. Even when the pool is not dirty, it helps to bring clean, just running your cleaner once a week can make a big difference in preventing algae from reoccurring. The best

How much chlorine will I use in my pool?




z400wood


We just bought a house in MI with a 16x32 inground pool. I am getting ready to buy chemicals for it. The pool has an automatic chlorinator and I am wondering whether or not to buy 3" or 1" tabs or the sticks or whatever else there is. Also how many pounds of chlorine will I go through in the summer running the pump for 12 hours a day. Any other pool tips or chemical advice would be greatly appreciated.


Answer
You definetly DO have to chlorinate a private residential pool, otherwise you will very quickly have a swamp rather than a swimming pool. Go with the 3" tabs, they dissolve less quickly so you won't have to add tabs but about every one to two weeks ( I have some pools on my route that I only have to add once a month). As far as how much to buy, as with everything, the more you buy the more you save. It does not expire so if you have some left at the end of the season, just store until the next.

As far as other tips, the key to keeping a nice pool if preventative maintenance ( as with any investment).
I recommend taking one day a week (only an hour or so) and perform maintenance:
*clean the water line (with a tile/vinyl cleaner from your local pool store)
*Remove large debris from bottom of pool with a leaf rake (large deep net that attaches to the end of telescopic pole)
*empty skimmer and pump baskets
*vacuum pool
*clean filter according to filter type (backwash sand filter, *clean cartridge elements in cartridge filter, and for DE backwash and recharge with DE)
*Test chemicals -- Test Chlorine and pH weekly, Total Alkalinty biweekly, and Calcium Hardness monthly.

Recommended chemical levels:
Chlorine: 1-5 ppm
pH: 7.2-7.6
Total Alkalinity: 80-120 ppm
Calcium Hardness: 200-300 ppm

In addition to chlorine, you will need to purchase other chemicals for balancing, namely Sodium Bicarbonate (for Total Alkalinity), Soda Ash (for pH), and Calcium Chloride( for calcium). If you would ever need to lower the pH, use Muriatic Acid.

You can buy these chemicals at your local pool store. They will most likely try to sell you BioGuard or some other brand of pool chemicals. The ones that I named are what we call bulk chemicals, they come in 50 lb. bags and are much less expensive. They are the exact same thing, you're just not paying for advertisement. Again they do not go bad, so you can save them for years. Just make sure you store chemicals out of the elements.

I recommend getting yourself a good test kit (the best is made by Taylor). Do not use test strips as they are difficult to read and often wrong.

I see that you are in michigan. If you happen to be near the Saginaw/ Bay City area there is a great company there called Cherokee Pools. They have a retail store and also do service if you would ever need any repair work done.( My husband got his start with them years ago and we now own our own business in Myrtle Beach).

If you have any other questions I would be more than happy to answer them.




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