automatic pool cleaning equipment image
kenne727
My pool has been looking very green lately. I have noticed that the bottom (the floor) and the walls of the pool are frequently greenish and needs to be vacuumed very often. But I want to know why this is the case. Is this because of algae growing? What chemicals should I buy. I know that shock and phosfree is needed. What effect will these chemicals have on the algae and water, and what do these chemicals do?
Thank you
Answer
Every pool owner has, at one time or another, done battle with the occasional algae bloom. Algae spores constantly enter the pool, brought in by wind, rain or even contaminated swimsuits or equipment.
Algae are a living aquatic creature that multiplies rapidly on warm, sunny days. Containing chlorophyll, algae utilizes photosynthesis to grow. That is, they take in carbon dioxide and expend oxygen as a byproduct. There are over 21,000 known varieties of algae and they classified into colors âgreen, yellow, black, pink.
Proper chemical balance and sanitizer residuals will prevent many opportunities for algae to bloom. High pH and low chlorine (or other sanitizer) can give algae a great start to genesis. General cleanliness of the pool is also important. Organic material and bacteria can contribute to algae growth.
Regular brushing of seemingly clean pools is not only good exercise for you, but prevents dirt from harboring in the pores of the plaster, which is a good start for an algae colony. Add unstabilized clorine granules (shock) to the pool. the amount of chlorine you add will depend on the capacity of your pool (150gr/10,000L or approx. 5oz of chlorine/2500gal of water). Vacuum the white residue from the bottom of the pool the next day. Clean your filter to remove any alga residue. Rebalance your pool water.
The cause of reoccurring algae, especially if it keeps appearing in the same places, is poor circulation. Often we find the return(s) of the pool (where water reenters the pool from the filter system) directed towards the surface of the pool. Dead spots are areas where little or no water is circulating. Even with main drains, the returns pointed upward to the surface mean little or no circulation on the bottom or lower areas of the walls. This results in little or no algaecide reaching these spots and algae never really being eradicated.
The there are ways to increase the area of circulation is to run your automatic cleaner. Even when the pool is not dirty, it helps to bring clean, just running your cleaner once a week can make a big difference in preventing algae from reoccurring. The best
Every pool owner has, at one time or another, done battle with the occasional algae bloom. Algae spores constantly enter the pool, brought in by wind, rain or even contaminated swimsuits or equipment.
Algae are a living aquatic creature that multiplies rapidly on warm, sunny days. Containing chlorophyll, algae utilizes photosynthesis to grow. That is, they take in carbon dioxide and expend oxygen as a byproduct. There are over 21,000 known varieties of algae and they classified into colors âgreen, yellow, black, pink.
Proper chemical balance and sanitizer residuals will prevent many opportunities for algae to bloom. High pH and low chlorine (or other sanitizer) can give algae a great start to genesis. General cleanliness of the pool is also important. Organic material and bacteria can contribute to algae growth.
Regular brushing of seemingly clean pools is not only good exercise for you, but prevents dirt from harboring in the pores of the plaster, which is a good start for an algae colony. Add unstabilized clorine granules (shock) to the pool. the amount of chlorine you add will depend on the capacity of your pool (150gr/10,000L or approx. 5oz of chlorine/2500gal of water). Vacuum the white residue from the bottom of the pool the next day. Clean your filter to remove any alga residue. Rebalance your pool water.
The cause of reoccurring algae, especially if it keeps appearing in the same places, is poor circulation. Often we find the return(s) of the pool (where water reenters the pool from the filter system) directed towards the surface of the pool. Dead spots are areas where little or no water is circulating. Even with main drains, the returns pointed upward to the surface mean little or no circulation on the bottom or lower areas of the walls. This results in little or no algaecide reaching these spots and algae never really being eradicated.
The there are ways to increase the area of circulation is to run your automatic cleaner. Even when the pool is not dirty, it helps to bring clean, just running your cleaner once a week can make a big difference in preventing algae from reoccurring. The best
How do I lower the alkalinity in my pool?
Tony
The alkalinity in my in ground pool (25K gallons) is very high. It takes 20 drops in the tester to produce clear test. I've already bought a new tester. My ph is normal. How do I lower the alkalinity without also lowering the PH too much? I have to add acid but won't that also lower th PH too much?
Answer
You can lower the alkalinity with muriatic acid. 1.3 pints per 10,000 gallons will lower it by 10ppm. 3.25 pints in your pool will lower it by 10ppm. To get to the level you need of approximately 100-120 you will need to use 26 pints of muriatic acid to reduce it by 80ppm or 3.25 gallons of liquid muriatic acid.
You are testing the TA and getting 200ppm for your inground pool right? Make sure you walk a perimeter around the pool while pouring this in and wear proper safety equipment (eye protection and gloves) as muriatic acid is a diluted form of hydrochloric acid. Make sure you turn off any automatic chlorinators or remove chlorine pucks/sticks from the pool and NEVER let muriatic acid come into direct contact with chlorine products. Once in the water it will play safe but outside of water it will create chlorine gas which will kill a human in a matter of minutes.
You can get muriatic acid from the pool store or a local hardware store (sold as a cleaning agent).
You can lower the alkalinity with muriatic acid. 1.3 pints per 10,000 gallons will lower it by 10ppm. 3.25 pints in your pool will lower it by 10ppm. To get to the level you need of approximately 100-120 you will need to use 26 pints of muriatic acid to reduce it by 80ppm or 3.25 gallons of liquid muriatic acid.
You are testing the TA and getting 200ppm for your inground pool right? Make sure you walk a perimeter around the pool while pouring this in and wear proper safety equipment (eye protection and gloves) as muriatic acid is a diluted form of hydrochloric acid. Make sure you turn off any automatic chlorinators or remove chlorine pucks/sticks from the pool and NEVER let muriatic acid come into direct contact with chlorine products. Once in the water it will play safe but outside of water it will create chlorine gas which will kill a human in a matter of minutes.
You can get muriatic acid from the pool store or a local hardware store (sold as a cleaning agent).
Powered by Yahoo! Answers
Tidak ada komentar:
Posting Komentar