pink
Which do you think is better the Kontiki 2 automatic cleaner or the Whale automatic cleaner? Any thoughts???
Answer
I couldn't really find any information on either of those.
Try this forum:
http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/archive/index.php/f-146.html
Or, here are some other cleaners to consider:
http://www.epinions.com/hmgd-Pool_and_Patio-Pool_Equipment-Cleaning_Supplies-All
I couldn't really find any information on either of those.
Try this forum:
http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/archive/index.php/f-146.html
Or, here are some other cleaners to consider:
http://www.epinions.com/hmgd-Pool_and_Patio-Pool_Equipment-Cleaning_Supplies-All
Mazda Rx8 Maintainence, Help.?
C4NT2T0PTH
Well im 99.5% sure im going to purchase a(used) 2006 six speed automatic Rx8. I've heard about the "maintainence problem" a lot esp from my brother who tells me not to get it and I'll regret it but i think these ppl who say it's a problem just don't understand how to maintain becuhz it's a special rotary engine. I understand the frequent oil changed and the high revs keeps the mechanic away and you have to rev it high a lot. So can someone please break down the specific things i have to do? Like for ex. Every let's say 3 k miles change the oil, so how frequent, also heard no synthetic, so type of oil, the high rev things? Do i have to drive it? Or just rev and hit high rpm's? Anything specific i need to know? Help please so i can have a high life with this thing =D thanks.
Answer
1) Change oil every 3000 miles. This keeps the oil clean which is important as some of it is injected into the combustion chambers to lubricate the apex and side seals of the rotors via the Oil Metering Pump (OMP).
2) Watch your oil levels. You should check your oil level every couple gas fill ups. You will go through more oil than a piston engine due to the oil injection.
3) Many rotary owners supplement the oil injection by mixing 4 - 6 ounces of 2-cycle motor oil in with their gasoline. This adds a little bit of extra internal lubrication and insurance for motor life should the OMP not supply enough. You can use full synthetic 2 cycle for this. Stick with oils meant for motorcycles or snowmobiles, but not marine oils.
4) Synthetic motor oil is not recommended for the motor (except for a couple difficult-to-find brands). Synthetic oils are designed to be more stable and NOT burn off easily. But this is what you want in a rotary engine as clean burn-off means less deposits in the combustion chambers.
5) Mazda recommends 5W20, which is fine but a little thin, especially if you have hot summers and spend a lot of time stuck in traffic. 5W30 is better for those situations. Or you can just rev the motor as in 6 (below). Higher revs inject more oil.
6) Rev the engine "under load". This is what produces the heat required to cook off varnish & carbon deposits. You don't need to race the car, just let the engine rev to redline when you get the chance during normal driving. This is easier than you think. The engine revs so smoothly you'll often forget to shift because you can't really feel it at 7000 rpm.
7) Do not stop the engine cold. If you start it you should let it warm up to near operating temperatures. If you don't you'll risk flooding the motor. This is because all engines run "rich" (more gas" when cold. In a rotary this excess gas can pool at the bottom of the rotor housings, thinning the motor oil, and losing compression on the rotors. Read the manual on how to prevent or fix this should you run into it.
8) Sign up on the web forums at:
http://www.rx8club.com
to learn more about your car.
1) Change oil every 3000 miles. This keeps the oil clean which is important as some of it is injected into the combustion chambers to lubricate the apex and side seals of the rotors via the Oil Metering Pump (OMP).
2) Watch your oil levels. You should check your oil level every couple gas fill ups. You will go through more oil than a piston engine due to the oil injection.
3) Many rotary owners supplement the oil injection by mixing 4 - 6 ounces of 2-cycle motor oil in with their gasoline. This adds a little bit of extra internal lubrication and insurance for motor life should the OMP not supply enough. You can use full synthetic 2 cycle for this. Stick with oils meant for motorcycles or snowmobiles, but not marine oils.
4) Synthetic motor oil is not recommended for the motor (except for a couple difficult-to-find brands). Synthetic oils are designed to be more stable and NOT burn off easily. But this is what you want in a rotary engine as clean burn-off means less deposits in the combustion chambers.
5) Mazda recommends 5W20, which is fine but a little thin, especially if you have hot summers and spend a lot of time stuck in traffic. 5W30 is better for those situations. Or you can just rev the motor as in 6 (below). Higher revs inject more oil.
6) Rev the engine "under load". This is what produces the heat required to cook off varnish & carbon deposits. You don't need to race the car, just let the engine rev to redline when you get the chance during normal driving. This is easier than you think. The engine revs so smoothly you'll often forget to shift because you can't really feel it at 7000 rpm.
7) Do not stop the engine cold. If you start it you should let it warm up to near operating temperatures. If you don't you'll risk flooding the motor. This is because all engines run "rich" (more gas" when cold. In a rotary this excess gas can pool at the bottom of the rotor housings, thinning the motor oil, and losing compression on the rotors. Read the manual on how to prevent or fix this should you run into it.
8) Sign up on the web forums at:
http://www.rx8club.com
to learn more about your car.
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