automatic swimming pool cleaner vacuum image
z400wood
We just bought a house in MI with a 16x32 inground pool. I am getting ready to buy chemicals for it. The pool has an automatic chlorinator and I am wondering whether or not to buy 3" or 1" tabs or the sticks or whatever else there is. Also how many pounds of chlorine will I go through in the summer running the pump for 12 hours a day. Any other pool tips or chemical advice would be greatly appreciated.
Answer
You definetly DO have to chlorinate a private residential pool, otherwise you will very quickly have a swamp rather than a swimming pool. Go with the 3" tabs, they dissolve less quickly so you won't have to add tabs but about every one to two weeks ( I have some pools on my route that I only have to add once a month). As far as how much to buy, as with everything, the more you buy the more you save. It does not expire so if you have some left at the end of the season, just store until the next.
As far as other tips, the key to keeping a nice pool if preventative maintenance ( as with any investment).
I recommend taking one day a week (only an hour or so) and perform maintenance:
*clean the water line (with a tile/vinyl cleaner from your local pool store)
*Remove large debris from bottom of pool with a leaf rake (large deep net that attaches to the end of telescopic pole)
*empty skimmer and pump baskets
*vacuum pool
*clean filter according to filter type (backwash sand filter, *clean cartridge elements in cartridge filter, and for DE backwash and recharge with DE)
*Test chemicals -- Test Chlorine and pH weekly, Total Alkalinty biweekly, and Calcium Hardness monthly.
Recommended chemical levels:
Chlorine: 1-5 ppm
pH: 7.2-7.6
Total Alkalinity: 80-120 ppm
Calcium Hardness: 200-300 ppm
In addition to chlorine, you will need to purchase other chemicals for balancing, namely Sodium Bicarbonate (for Total Alkalinity), Soda Ash (for pH), and Calcium Chloride( for calcium). If you would ever need to lower the pH, use Muriatic Acid.
You can buy these chemicals at your local pool store. They will most likely try to sell you BioGuard or some other brand of pool chemicals. The ones that I named are what we call bulk chemicals, they come in 50 lb. bags and are much less expensive. They are the exact same thing, you're just not paying for advertisement. Again they do not go bad, so you can save them for years. Just make sure you store chemicals out of the elements.
I recommend getting yourself a good test kit (the best is made by Taylor). Do not use test strips as they are difficult to read and often wrong.
I see that you are in michigan. If you happen to be near the Saginaw/ Bay City area there is a great company there called Cherokee Pools. They have a retail store and also do service if you would ever need any repair work done.( My husband got his start with them years ago and we now own our own business in Myrtle Beach).
If you have any other questions I would be more than happy to answer them.
You definetly DO have to chlorinate a private residential pool, otherwise you will very quickly have a swamp rather than a swimming pool. Go with the 3" tabs, they dissolve less quickly so you won't have to add tabs but about every one to two weeks ( I have some pools on my route that I only have to add once a month). As far as how much to buy, as with everything, the more you buy the more you save. It does not expire so if you have some left at the end of the season, just store until the next.
As far as other tips, the key to keeping a nice pool if preventative maintenance ( as with any investment).
I recommend taking one day a week (only an hour or so) and perform maintenance:
*clean the water line (with a tile/vinyl cleaner from your local pool store)
*Remove large debris from bottom of pool with a leaf rake (large deep net that attaches to the end of telescopic pole)
*empty skimmer and pump baskets
*vacuum pool
*clean filter according to filter type (backwash sand filter, *clean cartridge elements in cartridge filter, and for DE backwash and recharge with DE)
*Test chemicals -- Test Chlorine and pH weekly, Total Alkalinty biweekly, and Calcium Hardness monthly.
Recommended chemical levels:
Chlorine: 1-5 ppm
pH: 7.2-7.6
Total Alkalinity: 80-120 ppm
Calcium Hardness: 200-300 ppm
In addition to chlorine, you will need to purchase other chemicals for balancing, namely Sodium Bicarbonate (for Total Alkalinity), Soda Ash (for pH), and Calcium Chloride( for calcium). If you would ever need to lower the pH, use Muriatic Acid.
You can buy these chemicals at your local pool store. They will most likely try to sell you BioGuard or some other brand of pool chemicals. The ones that I named are what we call bulk chemicals, they come in 50 lb. bags and are much less expensive. They are the exact same thing, you're just not paying for advertisement. Again they do not go bad, so you can save them for years. Just make sure you store chemicals out of the elements.
I recommend getting yourself a good test kit (the best is made by Taylor). Do not use test strips as they are difficult to read and often wrong.
I see that you are in michigan. If you happen to be near the Saginaw/ Bay City area there is a great company there called Cherokee Pools. They have a retail store and also do service if you would ever need any repair work done.( My husband got his start with them years ago and we now own our own business in Myrtle Beach).
If you have any other questions I would be more than happy to answer them.
I'm having trouble vacuuming my pool what should I do?
Amanda
when I attach the tube with full water to the skimmer it won't vaccum. I know that the tube cannot have air in it and I'm sure that it doesn't when I attach it to the skimmer so I don't think that's the problem. I have tried so many times but it won't vacuum!! It might be the tubes problem or the pump I'm not sure. Help? I have an overground pool with an automatic cleaner that attaches to the tube.
Answer
Vacuuming your swimming pool is essential to proper swimming pool maintenance. Most pool owners opt for an automatic swimming pool cleaner, but some also choose to perform this task manually. Below you will find the proper technique to manually vacuum an above ground or inground swimming pool.
1. Start by attaching the vacuum head and pole together. Then attach the vacuum hose to the vacuum head.
2. Lower the vacuum head to the bottom of the pool and use a hand-over-hand method to sink the vacuum hose, working from the part attached to the head towards the free end. This will remove air from the hose. You can tell if you have done it properly when water runs out of the hose.
3. Connect the free end of the hose to the opening at the back of the skimmer, after taking the skimmer basket off.
4. At the filter slab, turn main control valve off, and turn the control valve attached to your skimmer towards the off position until you hear the pump activate. Then open it slightly until the pump can be heard running smoothly again.
5. Now that you have most of the suction concentrated into your vacuuming system, you are ready to vacuum! Move the vacuum like you would a real vacuum on a rug, in slow linear passes.
6. Depending on how dirty the pool is, you may have to empty the pump strainer during this process.
7. When you are finished, do not lift the vacuum head until you have gone back to the filter slab and opened any of the valves you have closed.
Here are some more links with great information on vacuuming your pool. I hope this helps.
Vacuuming your swimming pool is essential to proper swimming pool maintenance. Most pool owners opt for an automatic swimming pool cleaner, but some also choose to perform this task manually. Below you will find the proper technique to manually vacuum an above ground or inground swimming pool.
1. Start by attaching the vacuum head and pole together. Then attach the vacuum hose to the vacuum head.
2. Lower the vacuum head to the bottom of the pool and use a hand-over-hand method to sink the vacuum hose, working from the part attached to the head towards the free end. This will remove air from the hose. You can tell if you have done it properly when water runs out of the hose.
3. Connect the free end of the hose to the opening at the back of the skimmer, after taking the skimmer basket off.
4. At the filter slab, turn main control valve off, and turn the control valve attached to your skimmer towards the off position until you hear the pump activate. Then open it slightly until the pump can be heard running smoothly again.
5. Now that you have most of the suction concentrated into your vacuuming system, you are ready to vacuum! Move the vacuum like you would a real vacuum on a rug, in slow linear passes.
6. Depending on how dirty the pool is, you may have to empty the pump strainer during this process.
7. When you are finished, do not lift the vacuum head until you have gone back to the filter slab and opened any of the valves you have closed.
Here are some more links with great information on vacuuming your pool. I hope this helps.
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