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iamasurvey
We bought an above ground pool and installed it ourselves. It took us 5 tries but we finally got it up and filled and then noticed that there is a pointy rock about the size of a 50 cent piece sticking up under the liner. I have no idea how we missed it but we did so now we don't know what to do! We are afraid to try and push it down because it's probably going to poke a hole in the liner.. Does anyone have any ideas on what to do with it? We have 6 kids so I'm sure if we leave it in there its going to eventually get a hole there with the kids walking on it all the time. Its a 24' x 52" pool so we really don't want to drain it and start over, cause like I said this is the 5th time and 2 other times we had it half full and had to drain it. Someone please help!!!
Answer
Couple of options.
1/ New liner and new install so it's not going to be a hardship on that liner to drain it, crawl under from a convenient spot, grab that offending rock , retrace your crawl and smooth the bottom as you retreat.
2/ Live with it until it holes. Unpleasant for the feet and will happen sooner if you have an automatic pool cleaner.
3/ Bite the bullet and grab a knife. Have a patch kit and liner sample large enough to to the patch. Slice at the rock, grab it and apply your patch quickly so that your sand bottom doesn't start creating a channel as it erodes.
Couple of options.
1/ New liner and new install so it's not going to be a hardship on that liner to drain it, crawl under from a convenient spot, grab that offending rock , retrace your crawl and smooth the bottom as you retreat.
2/ Live with it until it holes. Unpleasant for the feet and will happen sooner if you have an automatic pool cleaner.
3/ Bite the bullet and grab a knife. Have a patch kit and liner sample large enough to to the patch. Slice at the rock, grab it and apply your patch quickly so that your sand bottom doesn't start creating a channel as it erodes.
I have some questions about my pool?
Jenny Ucke
I have some questions about my pool?
We bought a new house with a in ground pool........ We had the professionals come and get our pool going for the summer . They put the filter together got it running and added the shock. They told us a lot of info about maintaining it but I am still kinda confused. The pool looks pretty clear at this point . Here are my questions .
1 when I vacuum in the beginning when there is a lot of debree do I always have to back wash my filter ?
2 when I do backwash do I always have to add more DE to the filter through the skimmer . ( 6 cups he said ) but 6 cups every time ?
3 Do I do the backwash and then do the rinse cycle ?
4 There is an automatic chlorinator do I need to put the tablets in and it will do the rest or do I have to set it up ? was there chlorine in the shock so I don't add more ?
5 We have the ph plus and ph minus chemicals do I add the chlorine then check the levels and adjust in according to that ? PH is dealing with the chlorine levels rite ?
Any info would be appreciated thanks
Answer
Here ya go:
You should know what back washing is. In your filter you have screens. The openings in the screens are not small enough to thoroughly filter the water so the water stays clear. You add diatomaceous earth (DE). DE is large enough to catch on the filter screens while allowing openings that are so small that they create a better filter for the water. The filter screens are coated with DE. Water passes through the DE & is, assuming the chemicals are correct, very clean.
When you back wash, you turn the pump off & adjust the valves. Valves control the direction of the flow of water & by adjusting the valves you reverse the flow of water through the filters. By reversing the flow of water, the water washes the DE off the pool filters & the "dirty" DE is washed out of the system.
1. With regard to the effect of debris & back washing, the answer is "DEPENDS" and this is why. You only need to backwash when the pressure in your filter goes up about 6-8 pounds from the "new" back wash level. After you backwash, look at the pressure. Let's say it's at 12 pounds. When the pressure gets up to 18 to 20 pounds, then backwash as that means that the DE is 'full' and can no longer filter the water.
2. Thus, after you back wash you must re-coat the filter screens. So, the answer to your question is YES. Tou will add, per what "he" said, 6 cups. When you add the DE, you'll have already re-adjusted the filter valves so the water is flowing in the normal direction. Add the DE through the skimmers by slowly pouring it into the water& stirring it up with your hand. You can also use a large bucket full of water. Pour the 6 cups of DE into the water in the bucket & stir the DE into the water. Then simply pour the solution into a skimmer. DO NOT put the DE directly into the pool as it will settle to the bottom of the pool & not get into the filters.
3. Back washing & rinsing are the same thing.
4. Yes, you need to put tablets in the automatic chlorinator. If you shocked the pool (shock is really just a ton of chlorine), wait to refurbish the chlorinator as the chlorine levels of the pool will be very high. You should monitor the chlorine level of the pool and when it gets down to around 3.0 then start putting the tablets in chlorinator. Maintain chlorine levels as close to 1.0 to 2.0 as possible.
5. If you are using chlorine tablets the pH of the pool will rise. When the pH rises you risk the accumulation of a scale or calculus inside of the pipes. If enough scale accumulates it can actually plug up the pipes. To counter that rise you add acid which lowers the pH. Ideal pH levels are from 7.2 to 7.4.
You can buy the acid in most stores. It is called MURIATIC ACID (acid) and is probably cheaper than buying the product called pH MINUS. If the pH of the pool gets too low then the water is becoming acidic and that can oxidize (or corrode) the pipes. That, of course, would be a very expensive repair as would be the repair from scale build up from high pH. Although a change in pH is caused by chlorine it is not a measure of the chlorine. Both levels (chlorine and pH) must be monitored & adjusted as needed.
With regard to using liquid acid vs. pH minus ...The pH minus is a bit safer to use as it comes in a granulated form as opposed to a liquid. Acid should also be added ONLY to the deep end of the pool as when added to the shallow end it might not get diluted quickly enough & by the time it reaches the bottom of the pool it is still so strong it can etch the plaster. When adding acid to the deep end, pour a small steady stream into the water while walking around the pool. It's easy to do.
Personally, I used acid. It is easy to pour out of a bottle. Start off using small amounts as you can always add more. Wait an hour after the pour and test the pH. Plus acid is MUCH much less expensive than pH minus. The acid is also more easily available as it is frequently sold in grocery stores & home improvement stores as well as pool supply stores where, pH minus is rarely sold in many stores. If you were to get acid on your skin, all you do is step into the pool & rinse your skin. Just keep it away from the kids.
The only reason you'd need to have pH Plus around would be in case you put too much acid (or pH minus) in the pool & you need to balance the pH. However, you can also use a powder called SODA ASH, which HUGELY less expensive, instead of pH plus.
One last thing, don't be frightened by what I've said about using the acid & it eating up the pipes. It takes a number of repetitions over years of abuse for the pipes to be dramatically effected.
Here ya go:
You should know what back washing is. In your filter you have screens. The openings in the screens are not small enough to thoroughly filter the water so the water stays clear. You add diatomaceous earth (DE). DE is large enough to catch on the filter screens while allowing openings that are so small that they create a better filter for the water. The filter screens are coated with DE. Water passes through the DE & is, assuming the chemicals are correct, very clean.
When you back wash, you turn the pump off & adjust the valves. Valves control the direction of the flow of water & by adjusting the valves you reverse the flow of water through the filters. By reversing the flow of water, the water washes the DE off the pool filters & the "dirty" DE is washed out of the system.
1. With regard to the effect of debris & back washing, the answer is "DEPENDS" and this is why. You only need to backwash when the pressure in your filter goes up about 6-8 pounds from the "new" back wash level. After you backwash, look at the pressure. Let's say it's at 12 pounds. When the pressure gets up to 18 to 20 pounds, then backwash as that means that the DE is 'full' and can no longer filter the water.
2. Thus, after you back wash you must re-coat the filter screens. So, the answer to your question is YES. Tou will add, per what "he" said, 6 cups. When you add the DE, you'll have already re-adjusted the filter valves so the water is flowing in the normal direction. Add the DE through the skimmers by slowly pouring it into the water& stirring it up with your hand. You can also use a large bucket full of water. Pour the 6 cups of DE into the water in the bucket & stir the DE into the water. Then simply pour the solution into a skimmer. DO NOT put the DE directly into the pool as it will settle to the bottom of the pool & not get into the filters.
3. Back washing & rinsing are the same thing.
4. Yes, you need to put tablets in the automatic chlorinator. If you shocked the pool (shock is really just a ton of chlorine), wait to refurbish the chlorinator as the chlorine levels of the pool will be very high. You should monitor the chlorine level of the pool and when it gets down to around 3.0 then start putting the tablets in chlorinator. Maintain chlorine levels as close to 1.0 to 2.0 as possible.
5. If you are using chlorine tablets the pH of the pool will rise. When the pH rises you risk the accumulation of a scale or calculus inside of the pipes. If enough scale accumulates it can actually plug up the pipes. To counter that rise you add acid which lowers the pH. Ideal pH levels are from 7.2 to 7.4.
You can buy the acid in most stores. It is called MURIATIC ACID (acid) and is probably cheaper than buying the product called pH MINUS. If the pH of the pool gets too low then the water is becoming acidic and that can oxidize (or corrode) the pipes. That, of course, would be a very expensive repair as would be the repair from scale build up from high pH. Although a change in pH is caused by chlorine it is not a measure of the chlorine. Both levels (chlorine and pH) must be monitored & adjusted as needed.
With regard to using liquid acid vs. pH minus ...The pH minus is a bit safer to use as it comes in a granulated form as opposed to a liquid. Acid should also be added ONLY to the deep end of the pool as when added to the shallow end it might not get diluted quickly enough & by the time it reaches the bottom of the pool it is still so strong it can etch the plaster. When adding acid to the deep end, pour a small steady stream into the water while walking around the pool. It's easy to do.
Personally, I used acid. It is easy to pour out of a bottle. Start off using small amounts as you can always add more. Wait an hour after the pour and test the pH. Plus acid is MUCH much less expensive than pH minus. The acid is also more easily available as it is frequently sold in grocery stores & home improvement stores as well as pool supply stores where, pH minus is rarely sold in many stores. If you were to get acid on your skin, all you do is step into the pool & rinse your skin. Just keep it away from the kids.
The only reason you'd need to have pH Plus around would be in case you put too much acid (or pH minus) in the pool & you need to balance the pH. However, you can also use a powder called SODA ASH, which HUGELY less expensive, instead of pH plus.
One last thing, don't be frightened by what I've said about using the acid & it eating up the pipes. It takes a number of repetitions over years of abuse for the pipes to be dramatically effected.
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