build your own automatic pool cleaner image
jaret b
My pool lines are currently clogged with debris from what the cleaner sucked into the lines. Is there an easy way to unclog the lines without hiring a professional?
Answer
Well, I'll tell you what a Pro would do and you can decide if that's within your ability. Using a plumber's snake rarely works, since usually the initial cause of the blockage, is a twig, that other debris has been caught on. It's almost always at the 90 degree elbow, within a foot of the skimmer bottom. Sometimes it's even closer, depending on the installer, as some will do a 90 immediately below the skimmer ( not the proper thing as it creates cavitation).
First things first. Unhook your cleaner and make sure it's not the issue. Usually, most automatic cleaners are the victim. The debris gets stuck in them, not the line. If it's a barracuda cleaner, make sure that the diaphragm isn't stuck closed or debris lodged in there or even if it's been torn. Other cleaners, just a visual check down the business end will do. Try the pump with the cleaner unhooked. Still no go? What's the pump actually doing? If it has a clear lid, do you see the volute (wet end) full of water that's not moving anywhere? Have you made sure that the filter is clean and that your pressure gauge isn't broken, fooling you into thinking the filter is clean. That happens. That's not the issue? It still may not be the line, it could be debris in the pump impeller ( common) from crap that got past the basket during a basket cleaning. Depending on the pump model, checking this can be easy or require minor disassembly. If it's a Hayward super pump or Jacuzzi magnum, it's a simple finger check, with power to the pump off and locked out. Other makes usually require some taking apart to check, unfortunately. Feel debris in there? It doesn't take much to stop it up. Usually just pulling what you feel , out, will do the trick, but I would disassemble and clean the impeller vanes thoroughly. Not the issue? Read on.
Back to the pump and what it's doing. Does it sound like it's surging or is it rattling? Surging can indicate a leak in the suction line as well as cavitation produced by a blockage, it's an experience thing here. A pro can tell by the sound of the surge and it's not something I can describe here. A rattling noise is almost always a 100% blockage in the suction line.
None of the above and you're sure that there's no leak in your suction line someplace? Pipes break underground and if this pool was built between 10-20 years ago and has poly pipe for it's plumbing, the builder may have used nylon insert plumbing fittings, which were popular because they were more expensive than normal poly fittings ( contractor can charge more) but there's an issue with them in that they break down with chlorine exposure. You'll know just by looking at the equipment plumbing. If it's poly pipe, check the fittings. Are they an off white or yellowish? Nylon. Grey? Poly.
Not a plumbing leak for sure? The pump lid O ring is ok and no cracks in the pump anywhere and the pump drain plugs are sealed properly? Ok...on to removing that blockage
We usually use either a high pressure water or air slug, from the equipment side, to the pool on the suction line, using a pressure tester. You need to blow the obstruction back the way it came. You can create your own tool by heading to the pool shop and buying what's called a priming tool. It's a 1 1/2 inch rubber plug ( a #10) that's got a garden hose fitting on it. You'll also need a #10 normal rubber plug ( for most skimmer holes, so check the size before you buy). You'll need to unhook the suction line at the pump, put the tool in that line. You'll also need two other people to give you a hand. One at the tap and one at the pool skimmer. You get to hold the tool in the plumbing, because it's gonna want to come out of there if there's a block and also when your pal at the pool temporarily holds his #10 plug the suction hole. This just lets a little pressure build up in the line. He won't be able to hold it for too long, just make sure they don't tighten it in is all. Have that person let it build, then release. It make take a couple of shots. Have him watch for debris shooting out ( he may get a little wet). If a twig pops out, that will almost always be the initial cause and you should be done. Fire it up.
An alternative tool you can use is what's called a drain king. It adjusts itself to whatever size plumbing you insert it into, but these guys are a little pricey. The plus side is that it eliminates the need for someone holding the tool at the equipment end but the water volume coming through it isn't as great as a proper priming tool, so it may take much longer to clear the line.
Well, I'll tell you what a Pro would do and you can decide if that's within your ability. Using a plumber's snake rarely works, since usually the initial cause of the blockage, is a twig, that other debris has been caught on. It's almost always at the 90 degree elbow, within a foot of the skimmer bottom. Sometimes it's even closer, depending on the installer, as some will do a 90 immediately below the skimmer ( not the proper thing as it creates cavitation).
First things first. Unhook your cleaner and make sure it's not the issue. Usually, most automatic cleaners are the victim. The debris gets stuck in them, not the line. If it's a barracuda cleaner, make sure that the diaphragm isn't stuck closed or debris lodged in there or even if it's been torn. Other cleaners, just a visual check down the business end will do. Try the pump with the cleaner unhooked. Still no go? What's the pump actually doing? If it has a clear lid, do you see the volute (wet end) full of water that's not moving anywhere? Have you made sure that the filter is clean and that your pressure gauge isn't broken, fooling you into thinking the filter is clean. That happens. That's not the issue? It still may not be the line, it could be debris in the pump impeller ( common) from crap that got past the basket during a basket cleaning. Depending on the pump model, checking this can be easy or require minor disassembly. If it's a Hayward super pump or Jacuzzi magnum, it's a simple finger check, with power to the pump off and locked out. Other makes usually require some taking apart to check, unfortunately. Feel debris in there? It doesn't take much to stop it up. Usually just pulling what you feel , out, will do the trick, but I would disassemble and clean the impeller vanes thoroughly. Not the issue? Read on.
Back to the pump and what it's doing. Does it sound like it's surging or is it rattling? Surging can indicate a leak in the suction line as well as cavitation produced by a blockage, it's an experience thing here. A pro can tell by the sound of the surge and it's not something I can describe here. A rattling noise is almost always a 100% blockage in the suction line.
None of the above and you're sure that there's no leak in your suction line someplace? Pipes break underground and if this pool was built between 10-20 years ago and has poly pipe for it's plumbing, the builder may have used nylon insert plumbing fittings, which were popular because they were more expensive than normal poly fittings ( contractor can charge more) but there's an issue with them in that they break down with chlorine exposure. You'll know just by looking at the equipment plumbing. If it's poly pipe, check the fittings. Are they an off white or yellowish? Nylon. Grey? Poly.
Not a plumbing leak for sure? The pump lid O ring is ok and no cracks in the pump anywhere and the pump drain plugs are sealed properly? Ok...on to removing that blockage
We usually use either a high pressure water or air slug, from the equipment side, to the pool on the suction line, using a pressure tester. You need to blow the obstruction back the way it came. You can create your own tool by heading to the pool shop and buying what's called a priming tool. It's a 1 1/2 inch rubber plug ( a #10) that's got a garden hose fitting on it. You'll also need a #10 normal rubber plug ( for most skimmer holes, so check the size before you buy). You'll need to unhook the suction line at the pump, put the tool in that line. You'll also need two other people to give you a hand. One at the tap and one at the pool skimmer. You get to hold the tool in the plumbing, because it's gonna want to come out of there if there's a block and also when your pal at the pool temporarily holds his #10 plug the suction hole. This just lets a little pressure build up in the line. He won't be able to hold it for too long, just make sure they don't tighten it in is all. Have that person let it build, then release. It make take a couple of shots. Have him watch for debris shooting out ( he may get a little wet). If a twig pops out, that will almost always be the initial cause and you should be done. Fire it up.
An alternative tool you can use is what's called a drain king. It adjusts itself to whatever size plumbing you insert it into, but these guys are a little pricey. The plus side is that it eliminates the need for someone holding the tool at the equipment end but the water volume coming through it isn't as great as a proper priming tool, so it may take much longer to clear the line.
04 Mazda RX-8 First Car?
Edgar
I'm thinking in getting an automatic 04 Mazda Rx-8 for my first car but I've read that it needs lots of maintenance and care but aside from that they have lots of issues. It has less than 35k miles on it and I think I can get it for 10 grand. Should I get it or look for other options.
Answer
I wouldn't usually recommend an RX8 as a "first car", but if you were to do so the automatic version would be the better choice as the 6 speed model is too powerful and twitchy for a novice driver. Way too many end up wrapped around a tree in the hands of novice drivers. The automatic version (especially the 04 & 05 models) have much less power and are more forgiving of a newbie driver learning the handling characteristics of rear-wheel drive. You can keep all your RSX's, Civics, and GTI's. They're all FWD and cannot EVER handle as well as a properly tuned RWD chassis.
Wankel Rotary engines do require some extra maintenance and care, but not a huge amount. More frequent oil changes (every 3000 miles/5000 KM) and Ignition component changes (plugs/wires/ign coils) are required.
Learning the "quirks" of the Rotary engine is required. Many of the reported problems you read about are from people who treat the RX8 as if it were just some everyday piston-driven car. It's not and it cannot be treated as such. A design limitation of the motor leaves it open to flooding much easier than a piston engine. If the motor is stopped while still running high-idle the excess fuel being pumped in can collect at the bottom of the rotor housings and thin or wash off the oil. This can results in loss of the seal between the housings and the apex seals on the rotors making the motor very difficult (or impossible) to start. There are a couple "de-flooding" procedures to learn or better yet prevent the issue from happening by ALWAYS letting the motor drop to low-idle (~900 RPM) before shutting it off. If it must be shut off cold you can rev up to 3000+ RPM and hold that for 10 seconds before shut down. This reduces fuel flow to "normal" while allowing any excess to burn off thus preventing flooding.
Another quirk is that the motor will build up carbon deposits easier. To prevent this you need to run the engine hard occasionally. Getting the motor up to red-line (while under load) frequently and when safe to do so really does a good job of this. "A Red-Line a Day will keep the Mechanic away" is a phrase every Rotary engine owner needs to know. A good, long highway run (6 - 8 hours) does this as well, so go for a long run on the occasional weekend. See the sights while cleaning your motor!
There is NO PROBLEM leaving an RX8 sitting for days at a time (contrary to C7S's post). I stored mine for 5 months every winter and for up to 2 weeks at a time while on business travel and NEVER had a problem starting my RX8 (which I owned for 5 years). You should disconnect the battery, though, if it's going to sit for more than 2 weeks as the electrical components will drain the battery. A weak battery CAN contribute to flooding because if it cannot start the motor the injected gas will pool as mentioned above.
One other note. 2004 was the first model year of the RX8 and as such did have more problems than later years (just like every new car). You will want to check to ensure all recalls were completed. There are some TSB's (technical service bulletins) that should be looked at as well. There was an upgraded starter TSB for the 04 & 05 models which spun faster and helped prevent flooding, for example.
Good luck on your decision. The RX8 is a great, fun car and there are a lot of owners that are quite passionate about this vehicle. Go check out the owners forum at:
http://www.rx8club.com
I wouldn't usually recommend an RX8 as a "first car", but if you were to do so the automatic version would be the better choice as the 6 speed model is too powerful and twitchy for a novice driver. Way too many end up wrapped around a tree in the hands of novice drivers. The automatic version (especially the 04 & 05 models) have much less power and are more forgiving of a newbie driver learning the handling characteristics of rear-wheel drive. You can keep all your RSX's, Civics, and GTI's. They're all FWD and cannot EVER handle as well as a properly tuned RWD chassis.
Wankel Rotary engines do require some extra maintenance and care, but not a huge amount. More frequent oil changes (every 3000 miles/5000 KM) and Ignition component changes (plugs/wires/ign coils) are required.
Learning the "quirks" of the Rotary engine is required. Many of the reported problems you read about are from people who treat the RX8 as if it were just some everyday piston-driven car. It's not and it cannot be treated as such. A design limitation of the motor leaves it open to flooding much easier than a piston engine. If the motor is stopped while still running high-idle the excess fuel being pumped in can collect at the bottom of the rotor housings and thin or wash off the oil. This can results in loss of the seal between the housings and the apex seals on the rotors making the motor very difficult (or impossible) to start. There are a couple "de-flooding" procedures to learn or better yet prevent the issue from happening by ALWAYS letting the motor drop to low-idle (~900 RPM) before shutting it off. If it must be shut off cold you can rev up to 3000+ RPM and hold that for 10 seconds before shut down. This reduces fuel flow to "normal" while allowing any excess to burn off thus preventing flooding.
Another quirk is that the motor will build up carbon deposits easier. To prevent this you need to run the engine hard occasionally. Getting the motor up to red-line (while under load) frequently and when safe to do so really does a good job of this. "A Red-Line a Day will keep the Mechanic away" is a phrase every Rotary engine owner needs to know. A good, long highway run (6 - 8 hours) does this as well, so go for a long run on the occasional weekend. See the sights while cleaning your motor!
There is NO PROBLEM leaving an RX8 sitting for days at a time (contrary to C7S's post). I stored mine for 5 months every winter and for up to 2 weeks at a time while on business travel and NEVER had a problem starting my RX8 (which I owned for 5 years). You should disconnect the battery, though, if it's going to sit for more than 2 weeks as the electrical components will drain the battery. A weak battery CAN contribute to flooding because if it cannot start the motor the injected gas will pool as mentioned above.
One other note. 2004 was the first model year of the RX8 and as such did have more problems than later years (just like every new car). You will want to check to ensure all recalls were completed. There are some TSB's (technical service bulletins) that should be looked at as well. There was an upgraded starter TSB for the 04 & 05 models which spun faster and helped prevent flooding, for example.
Good luck on your decision. The RX8 is a great, fun car and there are a lot of owners that are quite passionate about this vehicle. Go check out the owners forum at:
http://www.rx8club.com
Powered by Yahoo! Answers
Tidak ada komentar:
Posting Komentar