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Senin, 21 April 2014

What is the best automatic inground pool cleaner? What brand and price?




Francaise


Its a vinyl inground pool. Rectangular 18x36. Also budget is an issue, I am looking at spending $500 or less.


Answer
After 25 years of hearing how great floor head systems are, I have come to a conclusion. If your pool would have stayed looking nice with any cleaning system in your pool, it will stay nice with a floor head system.
If you plan on owning a pool for 5-6 years, or longer, in my opinion the best cleaning system(Dollar for Dollar) is a Polaris 280 with a booster pump and a separate time clock. The reasons are as follows:
1.)Low cost of repairs. I have clients with Polaris 180âs that are 25 years old. (The 280 has the same drive system.) Total repair costs in 25 years are less than $300.00 total (Not counting bag replacements.) I Personally, have owned a Polaris 280 for almost 5 years and have not spent a dime. (other than on 2 bags, and one of them was torn by my kids, and the other by a big pine cone. )

2.)It will clean most pools spotless in 10-20 minutes per day. You have seen our (5) 40â plus Ponderosa pines that overhang our pool area. Not counting steps and love seat, if we keep the bag cleaned, the floor stays spotless.

3.)Initial installation costs should be in the $1400.00-1600.00 range. Floor head systems are usually about double the initial expense. Also, the motor for the cleaning system is usually a 2 H.P. or larger, and the pool needs to run for substantially greater times to even get close to what a Polaris will do in ½ hour or less. Also, if you are not the initial purchaser of the system, you will not get a lifetime warrantee. Replacement gear systems, floor heads, ⦠can average more than $200.00 per year after the first 2 year, not to mention if the cleaner is not working correctly, i.e. heads jammed in the up position, actuator gears jammed, ⦠you are running that large motor with absolutely no cleaning going on. Any way you look at it, running a ¾ H.P. booster motor for 20-30 minutes is going to be a lot cheaper than running a 2 H.P. for 3-4 hours. Add into this that most motors run for more than 2 hours per day seem to have a life span in the 5-6 year range, and that a 2 H.P. motor is about double the cost, I cannot see spending the money.

4.)Suction side cleaners have a lower initial cost, but are annoying because either they will not pick up sticks, twigs, small rocks, ⦠or they will, and then they will completely stop working until you spend 10 minutes pulling them out and cleaning the debris out of them. Some of these will end up needing replacement parts just because of punctured diaphragms, ⦠This is in addition to an average annual repair cost of about $200-250, after the first year or two. In less than 5 years(More likely 3 years), if you add in electricity savings, pool cleanliness and thus chemical costs savings, and electrical savings, you have more than paid for the Polaris. If you add to this the fact that, if you have a suction side cleaner, you will have had to bring it in to the shop at least 4-5 times, having a non-functional cleaning system, thus a horridly dirty pool at least 4-5 times, the fact that often it dies a slow death each time so your pool doesnât look right for months prior to each rebuilding, and the repeated hassles of needing to unplug the system when ever any ârealâ debris ends up in the pool, and I wonât have anything else in my pool, or my families pools. To summarize, If you are buying a cleaner and are selling the home quickly, I would probably go with a pool Vac(if there are no rocks, sticks, big leaves, ⦠In other words, dirt only, but your annual repair costs will be high) or a Kreepy Krauley if you have anything else(Or want 40% less repair costs than the Pool Vac).

5.)Floor heads, or suction cleaners destroy the natural water flow around the pool which is responsible for moving the debris around to the skimmer on the surface, and for moving silt, and dirt to the main drain. Therefore, the surface areas of both sides of the pool(If the cleaners are functioning properly) will be an average of 20-40% dirtier than the same pool with a pool vac, return lines properly adjusted, and approximately ¾ of the suction of the pool going to the main drain. Also, since almost all of the suction for a suction side cleaner is directed to the cleaner, and thatâs run through an extra 30 feet or so of corrugated hose, the water flow is greatly reduced, and to get the same water filtration you will need to run that system approximately 25% -30% longer than a system without a suction cleaner. Thatâs 1 ¾ hrs longer running a 1 H.P. motor than is needed to run the ¾ H.P booster. Also, as a suction cleaner picks up debris, assuming it doesnât get plugged up and stop functioning all together, the baskets will fill up and all the suction to the pool will decrease or stop. There are times during the year where about 60% of the repair work I do is related to suction cleaning systems picking up too much debris. Note: This is never covered under any warrantee.

There is more that I could add, but I am too tired to do so now. Installation is as follows:

What's the best automatic pool cleaner?




ce


Polaris, Aquabot, Dolphin, Orion or some other one?


Answer
I have a Polaris 360. Does a good job for the amount of money. Gets stuck in the corners quite allot. I've had it for 3 years and the only thing I have had to do is change the wheels. They were worn down. I also have changed the bag that collects the debris.




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Senin, 30 Desember 2013

What is the best automatic pool cleaner (sweeper)?

automatic pool cleaner gets stuck on Automatic Pool Cleaners Review  Suction Cleaners
automatic pool cleaner gets stuck image



Terry N


I have an inground pool and hate to vacuum the pool. What is the best one out there?


Answer
The absolute best would be a booster pump powered Polaris, any model. If your budget doesn't allow spending 1800 bucks then my vote is for both the Kreepy Krauly and the Hayward Navigator. Both have their strengths and weaknesses and a lot will depend if this is a concrete or vinyl pool. Kreepy's have a tendency to plow through just about anything, but they also tend to get stuck on many pool shapes unless you purchase the optional back up device for them. The Navigators don't tend to get stuck, but they are also not as adept at climbing walls or powering through heavy debris.

How much chlorine will I use in my pool?




z400wood


We just bought a house in MI with a 16x32 inground pool. I am getting ready to buy chemicals for it. The pool has an automatic chlorinator and I am wondering whether or not to buy 3" or 1" tabs or the sticks or whatever else there is. Also how many pounds of chlorine will I go through in the summer running the pump for 12 hours a day. Any other pool tips or chemical advice would be greatly appreciated.


Answer
You definetly DO have to chlorinate a private residential pool, otherwise you will very quickly have a swamp rather than a swimming pool. Go with the 3" tabs, they dissolve less quickly so you won't have to add tabs but about every one to two weeks ( I have some pools on my route that I only have to add once a month). As far as how much to buy, as with everything, the more you buy the more you save. It does not expire so if you have some left at the end of the season, just store until the next.

As far as other tips, the key to keeping a nice pool if preventative maintenance ( as with any investment).
I recommend taking one day a week (only an hour or so) and perform maintenance:
*clean the water line (with a tile/vinyl cleaner from your local pool store)
*Remove large debris from bottom of pool with a leaf rake (large deep net that attaches to the end of telescopic pole)
*empty skimmer and pump baskets
*vacuum pool
*clean filter according to filter type (backwash sand filter, *clean cartridge elements in cartridge filter, and for DE backwash and recharge with DE)
*Test chemicals -- Test Chlorine and pH weekly, Total Alkalinty biweekly, and Calcium Hardness monthly.

Recommended chemical levels:
Chlorine: 1-5 ppm
pH: 7.2-7.6
Total Alkalinity: 80-120 ppm
Calcium Hardness: 200-300 ppm

In addition to chlorine, you will need to purchase other chemicals for balancing, namely Sodium Bicarbonate (for Total Alkalinity), Soda Ash (for pH), and Calcium Chloride( for calcium). If you would ever need to lower the pH, use Muriatic Acid.

You can buy these chemicals at your local pool store. They will most likely try to sell you BioGuard or some other brand of pool chemicals. The ones that I named are what we call bulk chemicals, they come in 50 lb. bags and are much less expensive. They are the exact same thing, you're just not paying for advertisement. Again they do not go bad, so you can save them for years. Just make sure you store chemicals out of the elements.

I recommend getting yourself a good test kit (the best is made by Taylor). Do not use test strips as they are difficult to read and often wrong.

I see that you are in michigan. If you happen to be near the Saginaw/ Bay City area there is a great company there called Cherokee Pools. They have a retail store and also do service if you would ever need any repair work done.( My husband got his start with them years ago and we now own our own business in Myrtle Beach).

If you have any other questions I would be more than happy to answer them.




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Rabu, 11 Desember 2013

How to run pool filter/motor?

automatic pool cleaner gets stuck on and barracuda pool service or breathes in them or legend ii or pool
automatic pool cleaner gets stuck image



A


I have a swimming pool 6 x 6 Meters 2 m height,
Yesterday a company came and clean my pool and add chemical stuffs, told me to fill it with water and in the morning they will come to activate ,run filter or motor i dont know

I paid all, but it seems they won't come back maybe theives... but anyways anyone know whats the next step to do?. how to run filter motor?.. I don't know,, I have like a big pumb thing and other one is near the water storage room with a small machine that can set filters or motor automatic... anyone can help? i don't want the water to get dirty because I wasted alot of money already .



Answer
On mine there is a toggle switch at the rear bottom of the motor. you flip it on or off and the motor starts. Turn the shaft by hand if it has set off for a extended time to make sure the impeller blades are free in the pump. They stick and you can rip them off on starting. Once started you go to the timer. look at your clock and set the time. then open the cover and move the 2 colored pegs for on at such time. then the other set to turn it off at such time. You need water above the intake before turning on the pump. and prime the pump first. On mine to do that you open the valve above the impeller house and let water out to remove the air in it.

What's the best automatic pool cleaner?




ce


Polaris, Aquabot, Dolphin, Orion or some other one?


Answer
I have a Polaris 360. Does a good job for the amount of money. Gets stuck in the corners quite allot. I've had it for 3 years and the only thing I have had to do is change the wheels. They were worn down. I also have changed the bag that collects the debris.




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Sabtu, 14 September 2013

How do I lower the alkalinity in my pool?

automatic pool cleaner gets stuck on Robot vacuum cleaner auto vacuum cleaner intelligent vacuum cleaner
automatic pool cleaner gets stuck image



Tony


The alkalinity in my in ground pool (25K gallons) is very high. It takes 20 drops in the tester to produce clear test. I've already bought a new tester. My ph is normal. How do I lower the alkalinity without also lowering the PH too much? I have to add acid but won't that also lower th PH too much?


Answer
You can lower the alkalinity with muriatic acid. 1.3 pints per 10,000 gallons will lower it by 10ppm. 3.25 pints in your pool will lower it by 10ppm. To get to the level you need of approximately 100-120 you will need to use 26 pints of muriatic acid to reduce it by 80ppm or 3.25 gallons of liquid muriatic acid.

You are testing the TA and getting 200ppm for your inground pool right? Make sure you walk a perimeter around the pool while pouring this in and wear proper safety equipment (eye protection and gloves) as muriatic acid is a diluted form of hydrochloric acid. Make sure you turn off any automatic chlorinators or remove chlorine pucks/sticks from the pool and NEVER let muriatic acid come into direct contact with chlorine products. Once in the water it will play safe but outside of water it will create chlorine gas which will kill a human in a matter of minutes.

You can get muriatic acid from the pool store or a local hardware store (sold as a cleaning agent).

What is the best automatic inground pool cleaner? What brand and price?




Francaise


Its a vinyl inground pool. Rectangular 18x36. Also budget is an issue, I am looking at spending $500 or less.


Answer
After 25 years of hearing how great floor head systems are, I have come to a conclusion. If your pool would have stayed looking nice with any cleaning system in your pool, it will stay nice with a floor head system.
If you plan on owning a pool for 5-6 years, or longer, in my opinion the best cleaning system(Dollar for Dollar) is a Polaris 280 with a booster pump and a separate time clock. The reasons are as follows:
1.)Low cost of repairs. I have clients with Polaris 180âs that are 25 years old. (The 280 has the same drive system.) Total repair costs in 25 years are less than $300.00 total (Not counting bag replacements.) I Personally, have owned a Polaris 280 for almost 5 years and have not spent a dime. (other than on 2 bags, and one of them was torn by my kids, and the other by a big pine cone. )

2.)It will clean most pools spotless in 10-20 minutes per day. You have seen our (5) 40â plus Ponderosa pines that overhang our pool area. Not counting steps and love seat, if we keep the bag cleaned, the floor stays spotless.

3.)Initial installation costs should be in the $1400.00-1600.00 range. Floor head systems are usually about double the initial expense. Also, the motor for the cleaning system is usually a 2 H.P. or larger, and the pool needs to run for substantially greater times to even get close to what a Polaris will do in ½ hour or less. Also, if you are not the initial purchaser of the system, you will not get a lifetime warrantee. Replacement gear systems, floor heads, ⦠can average more than $200.00 per year after the first 2 year, not to mention if the cleaner is not working correctly, i.e. heads jammed in the up position, actuator gears jammed, ⦠you are running that large motor with absolutely no cleaning going on. Any way you look at it, running a ¾ H.P. booster motor for 20-30 minutes is going to be a lot cheaper than running a 2 H.P. for 3-4 hours. Add into this that most motors run for more than 2 hours per day seem to have a life span in the 5-6 year range, and that a 2 H.P. motor is about double the cost, I cannot see spending the money.

4.)Suction side cleaners have a lower initial cost, but are annoying because either they will not pick up sticks, twigs, small rocks, ⦠or they will, and then they will completely stop working until you spend 10 minutes pulling them out and cleaning the debris out of them. Some of these will end up needing replacement parts just because of punctured diaphragms, ⦠This is in addition to an average annual repair cost of about $200-250, after the first year or two. In less than 5 years(More likely 3 years), if you add in electricity savings, pool cleanliness and thus chemical costs savings, and electrical savings, you have more than paid for the Polaris. If you add to this the fact that, if you have a suction side cleaner, you will have had to bring it in to the shop at least 4-5 times, having a non-functional cleaning system, thus a horridly dirty pool at least 4-5 times, the fact that often it dies a slow death each time so your pool doesnât look right for months prior to each rebuilding, and the repeated hassles of needing to unplug the system when ever any ârealâ debris ends up in the pool, and I wonât have anything else in my pool, or my families pools. To summarize, If you are buying a cleaner and are selling the home quickly, I would probably go with a pool Vac(if there are no rocks, sticks, big leaves, ⦠In other words, dirt only, but your annual repair costs will be high) or a Kreepy Krauley if you have anything else(Or want 40% less repair costs than the Pool Vac).

5.)Floor heads, or suction cleaners destroy the natural water flow around the pool which is responsible for moving the debris around to the skimmer on the surface, and for moving silt, and dirt to the main drain. Therefore, the surface areas of both sides of the pool(If the cleaners are functioning properly) will be an average of 20-40% dirtier than the same pool with a pool vac, return lines properly adjusted, and approximately ¾ of the suction of the pool going to the main drain. Also, since almost all of the suction for a suction side cleaner is directed to the cleaner, and thatâs run through an extra 30 feet or so of corrugated hose, the water flow is greatly reduced, and to get the same water filtration you will need to run that system approximately 25% -30% longer than a system without a suction cleaner. Thatâs 1 ¾ hrs longer running a 1 H.P. motor than is needed to run the ¾ H.P booster. Also, as a suction cleaner picks up debris, assuming it doesnât get plugged up and stop functioning all together, the baskets will fill up and all the suction to the pool will decrease or stop. There are times during the year where about 60% of the repair work I do is related to suction cleaning systems picking up too much debris. Note: This is never covered under any warrantee.

There is more that I could add, but I am too tired to do so now. Installation is as follows:




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Sabtu, 24 Agustus 2013

I am taking a drug test tomorrow and I have taken some adderall?

automatic pool cleaner gets stuck on Whale of a job for some poor pool guy - Worldnews.com
automatic pool cleaner gets stuck image



Robby Lace


I know it will come up on my drug test, but I do not have a prescription for it. I took 30mg today and have to take the test tomorrow. What can I expect to happen? I know it will show up on the test, should I disclose that I took it before I take the test or just wait for the results to come back to say anything? Again, I do not have a prescription for adderall. I just took them recreationally to help with final exams.


Answer
What you should do depends on for whom you are taking the test. You know you are going to show positive for amphetamine or what ever amphetamine class is on the drug test, so... a) do you know what you are going to be tested for? b) i am assuming this is a urine test c) you said you took "30 mg" today, but then you say that you took "them" for exams ("them" indicating more than 1, and "final exams," which are usually given over a week or two) d) is this a job test/career related or something more serious that could be freedom restrictive (such as for probation)
Consider this: I have taken a diet medication that I was prescribed which does test positive for amphetamine. Curious, more than once, I did a little home testing b/c I wanted to see how long this drug stayed in my urine after I stopped taking it. To my surprise, it cleared my system, even after 1-2 solid months of 30-60 mg a day (it was phentermine) after no more than 24-36 hours. That's not saying that will be true for you, but it's a good chance that if you can delay this test--even 1 day--even if you have to go to the doctor w/ a belly ache or a migraine and get a note saying you were seen and have the day off, and if you don't take anything over the next 24 hours you will be naturally clean. Amphetamines (I don't know about methamphetamine, sorry) clear out very quickly! If you can't do this, you need to consider this. Unless is a huge deal test, this urine will only be sent of for forensic (usually GCMS) confirmation if you test *positive*, and now you can listen to the gatoraid/water drinkers here, but--and even if you take a B vitamin to recolor your urine--your urine will *probably* be tested for specific gravity and creatine, those are two items (and I don't care how you try to pack your system w/ any sort of creatine replenisher or eat meat and have sex--other purported means by which you can 'boost' creatine levels) that will cause an invalid result which are usually marked automatic positives, so if you are testing for a job or the like, you will be automatically out of the job pool. But in my opinion, for a job, it's better to drink as much water as you can *immediately before the test--no more that 1 hr 15 mins* and don't bother with the drinks b/c all they do in the end is dilute your urine. Take a vitamin B pill (chew it up b/c heaven forbid it's time released), about 30 mins before the test and after you are passing totally clean urine. Don't drink so much water that you vomit (your body will force you to vomit water if you are diluting your system--b/c too much water can actually kill you); no more than a 2-liter in that 1 hr 15 min period. You will start to pass yellow urine again b/c of the vitamin. Stop and use the bathroom 1 more time somewhere close to the test *right* before the test (the urine shouldn't be held in your bladder too long, not good), and just take it. If you are lucky, the test taker will put some a temp strip on your cup, verify the temp, check the color (which is why you *cannot* not take the vitamin), and stick the dip stick or drops some drops onto a diskette in front of you, see that nothing shows and throw it away. Depending on your probation, if that is the case, you may or may not be screwed, but it is always better to test--if you get the spec gravity and the creatine tests, diluted and claim you simply were worried that you would not be able to pee and so drank a hefty bit of water before the test than to test positive for *anything*! Cut and dry, what you did was illegal, and proof that you took any controlled substance (which Adderall is) w/out a prescription is admitting a crime. So... wait 24 more hours to take the test (and don't do anything no alcohol no smoking all these things pollute your system and slow down your elimination rate) or dilute your system and recolor w/ chewed B vitamin, b/c those are your only real choices.
After this experience, don't do this again. It's stupid, and if you get caught w/ even once pill that's not yours rx or no, you can eliminate your eligibility for financial aid, and derail the future for which you are taking those exams! Good luck & learn something from this, please.

btw: you'd be *REALLY SCREWED* if you were doing *POT* and on the way to hard core for real! It's the "gateway drug." Plus it stays in your system for 2 weeks to a month and even longer if you smoke it everyday. Don't listen to *pot-head-girl* up there!

How to run pool filter/motor?




A


I have a swimming pool 6 x 6 Meters 2 m height,
Yesterday a company came and clean my pool and add chemical stuffs, told me to fill it with water and in the morning they will come to activate ,run filter or motor i dont know

I paid all, but it seems they won't come back maybe theives... but anyways anyone know whats the next step to do?. how to run filter motor?.. I don't know,, I have like a big pumb thing and other one is near the water storage room with a small machine that can set filters or motor automatic... anyone can help? i don't want the water to get dirty because I wasted alot of money already .



Answer
On mine there is a toggle switch at the rear bottom of the motor. you flip it on or off and the motor starts. Turn the shaft by hand if it has set off for a extended time to make sure the impeller blades are free in the pump. They stick and you can rip them off on starting. Once started you go to the timer. look at your clock and set the time. then open the cover and move the 2 colored pegs for on at such time. then the other set to turn it off at such time. You need water above the intake before turning on the pump. and prime the pump first. On mine to do that you open the valve above the impeller house and let water out to remove the air in it.




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Sabtu, 29 Juni 2013

What is the best automatic inground pool cleaner? What brand and price?

automatic pool cleaner gets stuck on Polaris 380  What makes it a best choice for people?
automatic pool cleaner gets stuck image



Francaise


Its a vinyl inground pool. Rectangular 18x36. Also budget is an issue, I am looking at spending $500 or less.


Answer
After 25 years of hearing how great floor head systems are, I have come to a conclusion. If your pool would have stayed looking nice with any cleaning system in your pool, it will stay nice with a floor head system.
If you plan on owning a pool for 5-6 years, or longer, in my opinion the best cleaning system(Dollar for Dollar) is a Polaris 280 with a booster pump and a separate time clock. The reasons are as follows:
1.)Low cost of repairs. I have clients with Polaris 180âs that are 25 years old. (The 280 has the same drive system.) Total repair costs in 25 years are less than $300.00 total (Not counting bag replacements.) I Personally, have owned a Polaris 280 for almost 5 years and have not spent a dime. (other than on 2 bags, and one of them was torn by my kids, and the other by a big pine cone. )

2.)It will clean most pools spotless in 10-20 minutes per day. You have seen our (5) 40â plus Ponderosa pines that overhang our pool area. Not counting steps and love seat, if we keep the bag cleaned, the floor stays spotless.

3.)Initial installation costs should be in the $1400.00-1600.00 range. Floor head systems are usually about double the initial expense. Also, the motor for the cleaning system is usually a 2 H.P. or larger, and the pool needs to run for substantially greater times to even get close to what a Polaris will do in ½ hour or less. Also, if you are not the initial purchaser of the system, you will not get a lifetime warrantee. Replacement gear systems, floor heads, ⦠can average more than $200.00 per year after the first 2 year, not to mention if the cleaner is not working correctly, i.e. heads jammed in the up position, actuator gears jammed, ⦠you are running that large motor with absolutely no cleaning going on. Any way you look at it, running a ¾ H.P. booster motor for 20-30 minutes is going to be a lot cheaper than running a 2 H.P. for 3-4 hours. Add into this that most motors run for more than 2 hours per day seem to have a life span in the 5-6 year range, and that a 2 H.P. motor is about double the cost, I cannot see spending the money.

4.)Suction side cleaners have a lower initial cost, but are annoying because either they will not pick up sticks, twigs, small rocks, ⦠or they will, and then they will completely stop working until you spend 10 minutes pulling them out and cleaning the debris out of them. Some of these will end up needing replacement parts just because of punctured diaphragms, ⦠This is in addition to an average annual repair cost of about $200-250, after the first year or two. In less than 5 years(More likely 3 years), if you add in electricity savings, pool cleanliness and thus chemical costs savings, and electrical savings, you have more than paid for the Polaris. If you add to this the fact that, if you have a suction side cleaner, you will have had to bring it in to the shop at least 4-5 times, having a non-functional cleaning system, thus a horridly dirty pool at least 4-5 times, the fact that often it dies a slow death each time so your pool doesnât look right for months prior to each rebuilding, and the repeated hassles of needing to unplug the system when ever any ârealâ debris ends up in the pool, and I wonât have anything else in my pool, or my families pools. To summarize, If you are buying a cleaner and are selling the home quickly, I would probably go with a pool Vac(if there are no rocks, sticks, big leaves, ⦠In other words, dirt only, but your annual repair costs will be high) or a Kreepy Krauley if you have anything else(Or want 40% less repair costs than the Pool Vac).

5.)Floor heads, or suction cleaners destroy the natural water flow around the pool which is responsible for moving the debris around to the skimmer on the surface, and for moving silt, and dirt to the main drain. Therefore, the surface areas of both sides of the pool(If the cleaners are functioning properly) will be an average of 20-40% dirtier than the same pool with a pool vac, return lines properly adjusted, and approximately ¾ of the suction of the pool going to the main drain. Also, since almost all of the suction for a suction side cleaner is directed to the cleaner, and thatâs run through an extra 30 feet or so of corrugated hose, the water flow is greatly reduced, and to get the same water filtration you will need to run that system approximately 25% -30% longer than a system without a suction cleaner. Thatâs 1 ¾ hrs longer running a 1 H.P. motor than is needed to run the ¾ H.P booster. Also, as a suction cleaner picks up debris, assuming it doesnât get plugged up and stop functioning all together, the baskets will fill up and all the suction to the pool will decrease or stop. There are times during the year where about 60% of the repair work I do is related to suction cleaning systems picking up too much debris. Note: This is never covered under any warrantee.

There is more that I could add, but I am too tired to do so now. Installation is as follows:

Would a Taiwanese Guys go for a black girl?




Nissoue


I know dat it is really weird. But That question is really stuck in my head for some time now. because i am planning to move to Taiwan and I was really wondering about that. If i want to move there and spend maybe the rest of my life there, I would really like to know if there would be a possibility that I might get in a relationship while I am there. So could anyone tell me a little about it? I would like to be ready when I go there.


Answer
It's true what other people are saying that it's hard to know for sure until you try, but I can also share some thoughts that might help (I've been here 7 years).

First of all: race. I have wondered if white foreigners are treated differently from black foreigners. I can say that Taiwanese people are generally very friendly and interested in people from "the West", though I don't believe the maids/laborers from poorer countries like Indonesia, Thailand and the Philippines get the same level of respect. For example, I don't think America airs prime-time talk shows where rich white women complain about how lazy or incompetent their hispanic housemaids are, but I've seen the equivalent here. All that said, I believe it's more about economic status (and country of origin) than skin color.

I have a "light black" friend here (Afro-European mix) and I've asked him if he thinks girls treat him differently than a white guy. He doubts it. He's got looks and confidence, so he could probably overcome any bias if it were there.

I think the bigger issue is not your race but your sex. Many female foreign friends of mine have complained that all the foreig